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Redhaze737

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Posts posted by Redhaze737

  1. I also use Cswing. I recommend Panasonic video cameras. I believe they have available several 3 CCD cameras with fast shutter speeds. You need at least 1/2000 sec. for decent slow motion.

    hi all, anyone has used a swing analyze computer software program (e.g. cswing) before? if so, kindly recommend me some of the good software programs available please. many thanks in advance.
  2. these pics might help you guys about onoff standbag...

    It's the little things in life....that little velcro strap where you can hang your glove is one of those - duh. Why isn't that on every bag? Thanks for sharing.

    I'd like to hear about the black gold shafts when you have time.

    Aloha

  3. This guy is full of crap, I would love to know what brand is saying this stuff :tsg_smiley_putter2:

    I'll let him know what you think. Maybe we can get something going. I did a few 'uh whats' when I read his emails. All in all it doesn't make much difference in that each to his own. In my mind it's just fun to hear different opinions.

    I figured it would get a loud response on this forum with all of us interested in forged and JDM equipment. It all started because this company only makes cast irons. I thought that was somewhat strange with all the high end forged equipment being produced. I think 'full of crap' may be somewhat strong as I think these people have a good rep in the industry and with US professional players. Whether their opinion is the end all to be all is perhaps another thing. Once again, as I say - to each his own.

    I'll see if I can get a little more response going from your expressed opinion. :tsg_smilie_laugh:

  4. This from a US manufacturer regarding steel shafts after I asked why they only use Dynamic - NOT Dynamic Gold but Dynamic:

    "The shafts you rec'd in our irons are specifically designed by and for us...each CPM between clubs is 5-6 frequencies and total weight difference of about 7 grams..and swing weight +/- 1. If you take a black marker and balance each club on your finger and then mark the balance point of each club on the shaft and then stand them up you'll see a nice straight linear line on each club, right above the steps of each shaft."

    "Each club has inherent MOI that allows you to punch shots or "go for it". The shaft only loads depending upon the amount of work applied. There's no two shaft alike...as different as fingerprints. You name the shaft, we've tried it..Nippon has kick and balance problems...Dynamic Gold, trust me are not as good as the Dynamics we use..call me sometime and I'll tell you how the Gold came about..The Dynamics are still truly the best shaft made, we make certain the 'Distribution of Mass" is equal thru out the shaft and this gives the clubs from a "Jump On" to a "small punch shot" repeatability in feel and loading and why not one club feels any different from another stick."

    Here's what they say regarding forged: "On forged , yes years ago forged was the ultimate...but no longer. With advanced processes, such as our pressure cast is the ultimate , but also the most costly. Our irons are made with 4 different metals that meld into each club head....which in turns gives a MUCH softer feel to the clubs and better feedback. Very few forged are still truly forged today...they may say "Form Forged"..as ???? does which is not forged at all, but just plain old cold formed. Forged clubs are soft and was the only option available years ago...but our clubs for example are softer then forged, and far more stable in maintaining the loft and lie settings."

    "Our R & D which is headed by myself..has the experience of a few of us being former players, a PhD in engineering and understand Feel and metallurgy. Also the only club company owned and operated by PGA professionals and ex -tour players. The same clubs you have are identical as we send to our Tour players, same shafts, same everything..no bait and switch."

    I haven't called him yet to get the skinny on the Gold. I've cut and pasted, but have not changed the intent of what he is saying. I removed the name of the Company he said is not forged. It's not Japanese, but a well known US Co. All for what it's worth. :tsg_smiley_putter2:

  5. Need some advice - will most likely be taking the family to Hawaii mid-july and can't decide between the Four Seasons at Manele Bay or the Four Seasons Maui (Four Seasons Hualalai is full). Have read mixed reviews on Manele Bay mainly due to lower grade of service and the possibility of convention business crowding the resort but the golf courses look spectacular and are onsite. Basically I want to be able to golf early in the morning and at least be back by lunch time to spend the day with the kids (10 and 8 years old). Since we'll spending about 10 days in Hawaii, I want the resort to have plenty of activities/attractions to keep them occupied. Perhaps 5 days in one and 5 days in the other but I'd rather stay at one resort. Last but not least, at those extortionary room rates, I won't take anything less than 6 star service!

    Any suggestions/comments would be very welcome.

    Thanks.

    The thing you have to remember about Lanai is it is a very small island. I really like the Koele course and the Manele course is a good Hawaii seaside course. However, for your family, if they don't want to just play in the ocean then it may get boring. If you go to Maui at least you can get in the car and drive to another part of the island. Your family can play in the ocean and find other activities all over the island. You have all the courses on the Wailea side of the island as well as the courses in Kaanapali and Kapalua if you don't mind driving a little over an hour from Wailea. Plus if you really want to play Manele you can drive to Lahaina and take the ferry over to Lanai for the day.

    I'm from Hawaii and my wife and I love the Lodge at Koele, but more than three days gets a little long - IMHO. I hope this helps.

  6. Ajay, performance is definitely the number one factor. I left that out of this post in particular because I can't compare all the different lofts and shafts fairly. But I do agree with you whole heartedly and many others when we say that the Epon is the complete package, feel, looks, performance.

    I do still enjoy playing a club with feel though, otherwise I might just be hitting a sumo or that cobra driver Troy (808hack) was hitting. (^_^)

    The ViQ I guess may have more of a tink than the X-drive line.

    So the DFI+ is still around in Canada eh? It definitely has a dead feel but a bit of tink... like it's trying to make a tink... ^^

    I would like to know if you or anyone else on the forum has hit the OnOff driver and your impression versus the Epon. I've hit my wife's OnOff and the first thing I mentioned was how soft the face felt when I hit the ball. Ok, so it was high and hooking due to the soft shaft, but soft. :=) I'm considering an OnOff driver.

  7. Paradiso makes a very nice line of golf shirts, but they are impossible to find. Once in a blue moon you see a couple in a golf shop. I know there are hats here at TSG. I'd like to know where to see and buy their shirt line. Anyone have any information on them? I believe it's a branch of Bridgestone or they rep them.

    Aloha

  8. So.....the Ozik TP-6 would be the value point as it's only $650 - cough, choke, sputter - and it has it all. Where the other TP's are $1,000?

    I guess my question is this: To any of you who have hit this shaft and the AXIV shafts (or any other high end shaft) - can you tell the difference? And do you have to be swinging either at high speed, say over 110 MPH, or have a very quick transition to feel or experience any difference? Would anyone swinging smoothly at 100 MPH get any benefit from spending an addition $400 to $600?

  9. You are a 20 hdcp. player and you're worried about 1 degree?

    You've got to be joking right?

    Everyone likes to play with the toys. Just because you can't drive a car well doesn't mean you don't want a Ferrari right? Maybe he used to be a 30 hdcp. Better equipment can help everyone and everyone should feel ok to ask questions without someone picking on them. IMHO

  10. Hi Folks; Hope you can help me out with a problem that has been frustrating me lately. First a little about my game. I am a 4 Handicapper that plays the ball predominantlly from right to left. I am not a high ball hitter. My drives usually fly approximately 240 range. I hit my 8 iron 145 with a smooth tempo. My driver tends to get a little wild but have always been a good iron player and have always been able to hit my long irons with ease. My trajectory is pretty consistant between all my irons. My problem is as follows. Due to the winters up here I have not played since October. We are going away on a golf holiday with my foursome next week and I wanted to go out and get ready for it. We have an indoor dome / driving range and I have been hitting balls and all of my iron shots have been dead center of the club BUT a groove or two down on the club face. The ball is flying very straight but thin. I know better thin than fat but it has become extremely frustrating and I can't for the life of me figure out what the heck I am doing wrong. I have tried playing with ball position, no luck. I have tried moving closer to the ball and setting up with the ball more on the heel of the club face with the same results. I've even tried hitting fade shots to steepen the attack into the ball and I am hitting nice little fades but still a groove down. Normally I don't take that deep a divot at the best of times, usually a nice thin bacon strip that starts after the ball and moves slightly left with a consistent depth. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated as I would like to get this figured out before I leave next week. The problem is even happening when I tee the ball up and try to hit my driver or 3-wood. I look forward to reading your replies..... :( 8O :)

    Experience has taught me that sliding the hips towards the target aggressively will make me hit it thin. I thought of this because you said you hit it right to left. Sliding the hips will tend to tilt the spine making the path of your club in to out. You won't take a divot if you are swinging in to out due to overly aggressive legs and hips. Once again experience.

    I suggest concentrating on staying over the ball without a slide, if this is what is happening, and make sure that the club comes inside the line after the ball. If the club does not come inside the line after the ball you will tend to hit it thin.

    I've been fighting this for months after deciding that I need to get rid of this 1970's swing which involved a lot of leg drive and not much turn. Good luck.

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