emric

...speaking for myself only - there is a huge difference in difficulty grinding a set of irons vs. grinding individual wedges...you can throw out the plating differences. a highly experienced grinder is what you need to look for. each iron needs to have a seemless transition from one another - not simply in asthetics - but in cog, sole, neck, top, shape, groove thickness, etc. it is another proposition altogether if customers have the abilities to tell the difference from a properly ground set and a off-spec ground set...so i'd ask first - "who is grinding this custom set?". "where and to whom did this grinder apprentice under?" e If you mean strictly the new plater scratch uses in Japan ... you got a point for all the chrome lovers. But frankly that doesn't change the fact that Scratch has an excellent product at hand. In my opinion their wedges are the best on the market. The customization they offer is outstanding. My three wedges are in the Antique finish, meaning non-plated. I highly doubt they would be any better if I had opted for the(japanese) chrome/satin version. haribo

...seriously - where do you get this 'stuff'?...mizuno sports umbrella + subsidiaries have manufacturing facilities in shanghai, hong kong, mexico and japan...mizuno forgings are still forged and finished in japan... e I don't know if the 14's have a copper underlay or not but i would suggest Iron head covers for a set of custom mizzy's, I have had mine for a couple months and not a single ding due to the head covers, I also have a set of U.S retail MP30's which i didn't use head covers and they are all dinged up. It all depends on how you take care of your stuff and usually the with the hefty price of Japanese Irons people tend to baby them. Another issue is several years ago, mizuno moved their plant to Cambodia or Bangladesh or somthing and had to train an entire new staff of foreign workers, I have heard from many that in the last 2 years mizuno has really been back to up to par or even birdie for that matter.

...does your 'black onyx epoxy' = royal onyx?...if so - then i would rip-apart what you just put together - then re-set using 24hr epoxy...royal onyx only works well when epoxy'ing tight fitting components...the brass shims are fine when using the appropriate epoxy...in the future - a good way to install taper shafts in .370 reamed hosels is to tip the shafts 1/2" and then soft-step using shafting beads or sugar in your epoxy... e

...what the f**k???...you send a pull-out shaft to a club-maker (pseudo apparantly) to install in a kzg head - the guy performs the service, but the head is closed and not to your liking - so you want a refund + you are trying to make the 'club-maker' buy the f**king pull-out too?...it's a f**king pull-out for christ sake. if the club-head came flying off a snapped tip on your first range session - would you expect the guy to guarantee the s**t?...unf**king believable...take the monies that you are out and accept the f**king pull-out...afterall...it's a f**king pull-out - there are no guarantees when using them... e

http://www.bs-sports.co.jp/english/basic_o...f_golf_club.pdf e

...son - i'm not a mind reader - so i don't know which shaft 'haribo' was making a comparison to when he stated ~"the tip is thick"...was he comparing the tip to the tip of a 60gm harmon shaft? i can't bloody answer for him...but the hm4 is a 108gm shaft afterall - so yes, the tip will have more material than a counter-balanced harmon shaft or any other 60-80gm shaft - because it weighs 40+ gms more than the harmon for instance...btw - when speaking counter-balance mantra - we are talking a balance point of few centimeters towards the butt compared to a non-counter-balanced shaft - it is subtle... e

...the balance point of those shafts designed to counter-balance, is butt side of middle...there are many different ways that shaft designers can influence the balance and geometry of a shaft - from materials used (boron, ti weave, etc.) to wall thicknesses, taper, and lamination...what you seem to be describing are tip heavy shafts - ala penley type shafts... e

>Don't forget the HM4 is 117 gram heavy!!!!!!!!!!!< ...the hm4 in 'x' flex raw is certainly not 117 grams...every hm4 'x' flex shaft that i have weighed 108gms at raw length... e

...joseph - this can't possibly be a quote from the fibber. he left-out all mention of 'vampires'...but then again, the 'aberition' of the word aberration, gives me food for thought...the rest of his schpeal is laughable...we should probably just blame the junior colleges of america in the forcing of econ101 as a requirement to all enrollment - then we wouldn't need to read the strategic forecasting from the lame brain of equipment flipping... e ;)

>1st quarter aside, their success is based on tour dominance, not on leaked tour clubs.< ...you can't be serious here - you must be some 'vampire', merely trying to unload his tour equipment on the quick... e

...j - is that picture your own 'intellectual property'? i would hate for the 'lawyers' to get involved...as an aside - the 'tour' plastic wrap was a nice touch... e ;)

...how was your path? what was the face angle at impact? what ball were you testing with?...as joseph states - the loft of the club will have more of an impact on initial launch than changing one high kick shaft for another at stronger flex or stiffer tip. the vtlt has an obvious stiffer tip than the pro95 - and on paper may lower ballspin by comparison - but the fact that it 'feels' considerably different and will lower the overall weight of your stick, the change may be more of a hinderance than any lower ballspin help...personally, if ballflight is consistent using the 's' flex pro95 - i'd experiment with a different characteristic ball first - if that doesn't do it - i'd next look for a head at a lower measured loft... e

...are you able to start the ferrule on the tip? you won't be able to get a .335 ferrule to start to seat to a .355 tip shaft. the best way to get a tight fitting .355 ferrule installed is soaking the ferrules in hot water whilst you get ready to build - then wipe the inside of the ferrule with epoxy which acts as a lubricant...you'll tend to f**k-up ferrules when you take drill bits to them... e

1) don't adjust the lofts of your new irons until you have determined trajectory, ball-flight, and distance gaps. matching lofts and lies of different types of sticks can and often is - counter productive. 2)depends. what is the swing weight(balance) of the i3's? eg...if the sw is low, the jz's may be a click or two stiffer. if d1-3 they would play close with regard to stiffness. the rifles will 'feel' a hell of a lot different - the bend properties are also not on par. 3)not really - just don't baby the bridgestones with iron covers 4)not enough time or space... e

How about the one w/ nickel and watt nickel before chrome which is IMO a more durable and feel as good as the copper underlay. 8O :wink: :roll: Joe :lol: ...since when did you get such fast fingers? you beat me to the punch... e ;)