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Mfinger

Reshafting Callaway X-16 Pros, whats the tip/hosel diameter?

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I have X-16 Pros with Project X 5.5s. I am going to reshaft with DGS300. What is the hosel diameter on the X-16 Pro and do I need a special ferrule?

Thanks for your replys,

Mfinger

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Callaway irons will accept a .370" parallel shaft, but you're going to have to do some drilling. You'll notice that the shaft is split on the ends. I don't know why Callaway does this, but I'd assume to prevent people from modifying their clubs. Inside the hosel it goes from .370" parallel at the very top and then has a slight "step down" where it tapers off toward the bottom. You're going to have to use a 3/8" bit (.375") and bore them out to parallel, or, if you want to be more precise, take a tapered iron reamer and run it through the hosel just enough so the end of the shaft will poke through. I would suggest doing this on a drill press, especially if you use the 3/8" bit. The iron reamer isn't tough to do by hand, but just be careful.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Nick

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I have X-16 Pros with Project X 5.5s.  I am going to reshaft with DGS300.  What is the hosel diameter on the X-16 Pro and do I need a special ferrule?

Thanks for your replys,

Mfinger

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.

The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one.

Cheer!

Joe Kwok

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I have X-16 Pros with Project X 5.5s.  I am going to reshaft with DGS300.  What is the hosel diameter on the X-16 Pro and do I need a special ferrule?

Thanks for your replys,

Mfinger

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.

The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one.

Cheer!

Joe Kwok

Never tried the .355 method. I've always found boring the hosels is a much easier solution, especially when replacing graphite.

You can pick up o-rings at Home Depot or through the Golfsmith catalog. They look very similar to the ones already on the X-16's. I believe it's the #83 o-ring, but I'm not positive.

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I have X-16 Pros with Project X 5.5s.  I am going to reshaft with DGS300.  What is the hosel diameter on the X-16 Pro and do I need a special ferrule?

Thanks for your replys,

Mfinger

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.

The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one.

Cheer!

Joe Kwok

Never tried the .355 method. I've always found boring the hosels is a much easier solution, especially when replacing graphite.

You can pick up o-rings at Home Depot or through the Golfsmith catalog. They look very similar to the ones already on the X-16's. I believe it's the #83 o-ring, but I'm not positive.

Really!

From my 13 years working on the club i found it the other way around.

Off course this method will not works on the X 14. Only work on the newer Callaway Irons( GBB, X16 and so on ).

Joe Kwok

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I have X-16 Pros with Project X 5.5s.  I am going to reshaft with DGS300.  What is the hosel diameter on the X-16 Pro and do I need a special ferrule?

Thanks for your replys,

Mfinger

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.

The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one.

Cheer!

Joe Kwok

Never tried the .355 method. I've always found boring the hosels is a much easier solution, especially when replacing graphite.

You can pick up o-rings at Home Depot or through the Golfsmith catalog. They look very similar to the ones already on the X-16's. I believe it's the #83 o-ring, but I'm not positive.

Really!

From my 13 years working on the club i found it the other way around.

Off course this method will not works on the X 14. Only work on the newer Callaway Irons( GBB, X16 and so on ).

Joe Kwok

From a shaft availability standpoint, boring the hosels has always been a much easier way to go. I also have the drill press right next to my bench so boring the head only takes a minute or so. Makes all future reshafts much easier as well.

Why won't it work on the X-14's, out of curiosity? I've reshafted a few sets of those and never paid close enough attention to notice a difference in the hosel. What's the deal?

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I have X-16 Pros with Project X 5.5s.  I am going to reshaft with DGS300.  What is the hosel diameter on the X-16 Pro and do I need a special ferrule?

Thanks for your replys,

Mfinger

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.

The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one.

Cheer!

Joe Kwok

Never tried the .355 method. I've always found boring the hosels is a much easier solution, especially when replacing graphite.

You can pick up o-rings at Home Depot or through the Golfsmith catalog. They look very similar to the ones already on the X-16's. I believe it's the #83 o-ring, but I'm not positive.

Really!

From my 13 years working on the club i found it the other way around.

Off course this method will not works on the X 14. Only work on the newer Callaway Irons( GBB, X16 and so on ).

Joe Kwok

From a shaft availability standpoint, boring the hosels has always been a much easier way to go. I also have the drill press right next to my bench so boring the head only takes a minute or so. Makes all future reshafts much easier as well.

Why won't it work on the X-14's, out of curiosity? I've reshafted a few sets of those and never paid close enough attention to notice a difference in the hosel. What's the deal?

IMHGO, For most hobbiest is a lot easier grinding the shaft tip as the availibity ( Home Depot ) of bench grinder, dremmel tool, or file are easier for them, as oppose they have to go out and bought a reemer ( Carbite reemer is the best for cast iron and titanium heads ). And we have to go to specialty tool store to find a reemer.

Somehow the older edition is slightly smaller diameter than 355, so i have to reem it w/ custom made taper carbite reemer to be able to received 355 tip nice and tight.

I found the design of the callaway head are not sit quiet straight if i try to bore it w/ a bench press and jig ( boring jig).

Plus there are a lot other reasons why i don't quite like using a parralel tip due to technical reason compare to the taper tip.

Just one example Taper tip shaft comes w/ "constant weight" from 1-pw ( Example on DG long come w/ 41" to 37"), versus Parralel tip comes w/ the same lenght and weight 1-pw w/41", After tipping and butt cut properly for certain irons...the shorter iron will end up lighter than the longer irons. Due to the shape of the tip for both shaft, the kick point will be different despite what the manufacture told us.

Plus, My experiences on the Callway iron from the tour dept are using a taper tip shaft. DG long taper are available starting from a 41.5" in almost any flexes.

My 2 cents!

Joe

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