TourSpecGolfer

I gotta assume the one in the pics is the bigger model.

Thanks Bill, looks like the Yammy CB has a little more offset than the MP60.

New golf club factories are not popping up in China like they used to, many have disappeared or consolidated into a handful of companies that produce almost everyones clubs. Even Japanese brands owned by the Chinese still choose to make their very best in Japan. The single biggest reason most brands don't build in Japan is price, everyone knows Endo is the best for irons, wedges, & drivers easily but they are also very expensive. Much of Endo made product is done in Thailand run by Endo Japan staff and still cost a lot. I think most JDM brands would jump to China or Taiwan in a heartbeat if they could offer quality like Endo at an affordable price which just isn't the case. I think there will be a shift to other countries in the future as China becomes more expensive. I keep thinking China's technology will catch up but at a certain level it doesn't equal Japanese manufacturing. The state of the JDM is a lot better today than it was in years past, smaller Japanese factories are re tooling and getting up to speed. Yamaha now uses smaller factories to produce the rest of the non Endo RMX lines irons. Outside of the golf industry companies like Canon, Sony, and even a few big auto brands are bringing back portions of manufacturing to Japan from overseas. It's really a good sign imo.

I believe so, they are not Endo like years past :(

Here is another picture from Yamaha!

All three are square faced.

Yamaha is putting a lot of resources behind the launch of the RMX drivers. I see a lot about them in Choice magazine here they are via scan & translate. Let's start with this, more to come.

I hear ya guys, there is merit in his logic. The 46" driver still owns my longest drives but not most consistent which is what I need. Shorter is indeed more safe. I think most of us see this plain as day. Fact is you get more distance from a longer driver even if you don't have much lag. In Japan it's been tested scientifically and has been shown in magazines and books many times over. Those tests also show impact further from center as well. I agree with Vega, heavier creates less thin in my experience. I also understand Wishons position on pushing his own stuff and downplaying anything I would personally consider quality or technologically advanced. He needs to prop up his product like anyone else. We had a small and fun debate in some forum years back about Endo technology, materials, and manufacturing. What I learned is that it's no use debating with someone who doesn't seek the best like many of us here do.

I'm assuming cylinder deactivation maybe. That's the only thing I could think of.

I loved the feel on these but struggled with consistency, a little to deep for me. If you can give up a little in feel the Egg by PRGR and the Ryoma's are better for your score probably. Confidence is important and those 2 woods inspire you to believe more than others.

The Type-R irons are like the V forged with the forgiveness of the D, it's almost shocking. They feel really good too.

I've been hooked on Toyoshimas for a long time, if those don't do it for you the Vokey Cold Forged are stellar. And I'm not sure if people noticed that the new Yamaha wedges are part of the "tour model" series the previous version was not, I've got them and they are some of the best out now.

D-Forged, V-Forged, and the new RMX Forged are the ones I suggest. You can go bigger with the RMX maraging and Z cavity if you don't mind the largest they have to offer. D-Forged is the last what I would call game improvement model that is forged by Endo. Tell us about your game and we can help u better. That said you can't go wrong any of those and add the OnOff forged and RomaRo Type-R to that list as well.

Tim those Yammy UTs are legit arnt they? Steel is awesome but if you want to gain good yardage try it wth a quality graphite UT shaft.

So the version that is coming out is to be named the RC-F. It stacks nicely against the M4/M3 except in price where this bad boy will cost about 40% more. The M4/M3 is starting at 65k The RC-F is expected to cost just north of 100k. Why would Lexus do that? I like their reasoning actually. It's about materials & technology. The RC-F will have a body that is made mostly of Carbon, like only the very top exotic cars are made. It also packs an 8 speed trans & torque vectoring for the turns amongst other things that nor BMW or Merc will offer simply because it just doesn't make sense for the market. There is a 40k version of the RC that is coming out that is not in beast mode like this one here. The interior is nothing fancy just done very well, It's inside is pretty small too matching the IS in size. People are wondering how lexus expects to sell these. The power will be one up'd by the coming C63 no doubt. This lexus has modest numbers especially for it's price. 5.0-liter 32-valve V8 engine with more than 450 horsepower and more than 383 lb.-ft. torque so the big question is how much will it weigh if they are spending bank on a carbon body. That could be the game changer. This is the first car by Lexus that has had many of the LFA technology trickle down into it. The LFA is another car where experience and technology trumped all else. Lexus started with the RC-F and created the standard RC where as usually makers start with the more tame car and enhance it like the 4 series and C class. Totally in reverse, I expect this to be a Mini LFA and it better be for this price. <iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/NmM89jonJnE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm actually going to base my bag on this logic. Hopefully I save a few strokes per round. Gonna pass on the MOI matching part. Driver: 10.5 TRPX D-013 w/ Messenger Stiff @ 44" D3 with 8 & 6g Crazy weights installed 5 Wood: Ryoma F5 w/ Crazy FW80 Stiff Flex 41.75" 21* RomaRo Type-R UT wood w/Crazy UT Stiff 25* Egg i+ UT w/Crazy UT Stiff 5-PW Yamaha RMX Tour Model CB Modus 3 Stiff JDM Vokey Cold Forged 46* w/ Modus 3 Stiff Seven Proto 51* w/ Modus 3 Stiff Seven Proto 57* w/ Modus 3 Stiff Seven SM490A Putter w/ NS heavy & JDM super stroke grip.

Cool blog by Wishon on WRX, was wondering how you guys would set up your JDM bags if you applied this logic... One of the simplest ways golfers can improve their games is through proper club fitting, which is often overlooked because of the emphasis golf equipment companies place on trying to help golfers hit the ball farther. Adding distance is great, but it doesn’t always come with an improvement in shot consistency. Sometimes, it actually has the opposite effect, whereas a proper fitting almost always improves shot consistency and often leads to more distance as well. When I speak about shot consistency, exactly what am I talking about? A higher percentage of on-center hits? Sure, that’s an improvement in shot consistency. But so too, and perhaps even more important, are elements of consistency such as a reduction in how far a slice or hook curves off line, or a reduction in the number of poor shots. Perhaps the best way to express what an improvement in shot consistency means is to help the golfer “miss the ball” better. If you’ve played the game a while, you are well aware of the type of shots that are classified as a “good misses.” No one hits all the shots well. In fact, the best golfers can be said to be those who “miss their shots the best.” Therefore, the purpose of this article is to offer some of the best fitting tips for “better missed shots” and from it, better shot consistency. 1. A shorter driver, but also shorter fairway woods At the risk of sounding like a broken record, the percentage of golfers who have improved their tee shot consistency by going much shorter with the length of their driver is nothing short of spectacular. The only male golfers who have a real chance to play well with a 45-inch driver are those with a smooth tempo, great swing rhythm/timing, inside-out to square swing path, later release and good golf athletic ability on top of those things. For golfers who fall short in one or more of those elements, don’t even think about a driver longer than 44 inches. If the golfer falls short in three or more of those factors, don’t go longer than 43 to 43.5 inches. Longer length only means higher club head speed for golfers with a later-to-very-late release. And even for those with a later release, for 98 percent of them longer length means more off-center hits. But don’t just think shorter drivers for better shot consistency. Think shorter fairway woods, too. The old fairway wood length standards were 43 inches for a 3 wood, 42.5 inches for a 4 wood, 42 inches for a 5 wood and 41 inches for a 7 wood. Golfers should consider using fairway woods that are a half inch to a full inch shorter than that if they do not possess most of the above ideal swing tempo/release characteristics. You’d be amazed at the improvement in shot consistency from shorter fairway woods. 2. Proper face angle fitting to address misdirection tendencies Preaching to the choir, element No. 2 for shot consistency is to fit the face angle of the driver, fairway woods and even the hybrids to offset the golfer’s slice or hook tendency with those clubs. Always keep these two key points in mind when viewing a face angle change for improving shot consistency through better accuracy: At a carry distance of 200 yards, a 1-degree change in the face angle from what it was before represents a slice or hook reduction of 4 to 5 yards. For a face angle change to work best, you have to know the face angle of your present clubs so you know how much of a change to make to bring about a visible reduction in the slice or hook. For a face angle change to do its job, you have to address the ball with the face angle sitting as it is designed. All too often, golfers not used to an open or closed face will rotate the head to assume a more square position at address. If you hook or slice and want that to be immediately reduced, you’ll need to just get used to the fact that if you slice or hook the ball, your new face angle is going to sit with the face pointing in the opposite direction of your misdirection tendency. One last point for golfers with one of the adjustable hosel drivers: The only way these drivers can change the loft is if the golfer always holds the face square in the address position. If you are a relatively straight hitter, fine, you won’t need any face angle help. But if you are a chronic fader/slicer/drawer/hooker, a change in the face angle from what you currently use can be a huge help. As such, trying to get that from one of the adjustable hosel drivers is difficult and confusing. For that reason, it is best to work with a club fitter who knows his stuff and can source the right driver head that has both the loft AND face angle you need. 3. Matching total weight and swing weight to the golfer’s transition, tempo and strength If the total weight and/or the swing weight are too heavy for the golfer, more off-center hits, pushed shots and thin shots can result. If the total weight and/or the swing weight are too light for the golfer, a more outside-in path, slice and off-center hits can result. While we talk a lot in fitting about the total weight (shaft weight) and the swing weight as separately fit elements, from a shot consistency standpoint you have to think of the two working together. For many golfers, the swing weight (meaning the head weight FEEL) is more important for shot consistency improvement than the total weight. Typically, the more forceful the transition, the faster the tempo and the stronger the golfer, the heavier the total weight (shaft weight) and swing weight would be to best match the golfer’s timing and rhythm. And vice versa, usually the more smooth the transition and tempo and the weaker the golfer, the lighter the total weight (shaft weight) and swing weight would be. It’s not always this way, however, because golfers develop differences in what they think feels best when they swing the club. It’s also totally possible for golfers with a stronger transition and tempo to end up being well fit into a lighter weight shaft (lighter total weight), but much less likely that a weaker/smoother-swinging golfer would be well fit into a heavy shaft for a heavy total weight. If a stronger golfer with a little more aggressive transition move were to use a 55-to-65-gram shaft, the light total weight of such a light shaft weight can be offset by using a little to a lot higher swing weight. But on the other hand, it is rarely if ever a good thing to fit a golfer with a smooth transition/tempo and below average strength with a shaft that weighs more than 75 grams, but then try to mute that heavier shaft effect with a low swing weight. But do remember, weight fitting also has to take the golfer’s personal, acquired preference for the weight feel of the clubs into account. There can be infrequent times when the weaker/smoother-swinging player prefers a heavy feel while a strong/aggressive player could possibly like a lighter feel. In the end, there is no such thing as a total weight/swing weight detector in fitting. You start with the tendencies of swing force versus club weighting listed here, then experiment to find the combination that works best. In the end, the right total weight and swing weight is found when the golfer never has to make any type of conscious move or effort to control his swing tempo and timing. 4. MOI match the woods and the irons instead of swingweight matching Ask any mechanical engineer. If the goal is to build all the clubs in a set so they swing with exactly the same effort and feel, the best way to do that is to build the clubs to have the same MOI rather than the same swing weight. MOI matching has been around now for 10 years so the statistics are starting to show tendencies. When the MOI is chosen properly for the golfer, again based on his transition, tempo, strength and personal FEEL preference, the subtle improvements show up as more on-center hits more often, fewer pulled and pushed shots and a few more greens hit in regulation. But what MOI is right for each golfer is still a guess-and-check process. The way the best club fitters do it is to build a test club of at least the 5 or 6 iron that possesses everything BUT the weighting the golfer needs in his fitting. The club has the right length, loft, lie, shaft and grip, but the head weight is left light. Then the golfer goes through a process of hit three shots, after which weight is added to the head. This process is repeated until the point is found when the golfer definitely perceives the head weight to be too heavy and too laboring to swing consistently on tempo. A fitter then backs off some of the weight and that becomes the benchmark club from which the MOI is measured and then duplicated on the other clubs in the set. Final point: For the vast majority of golfers, the best MOI for the driver and woods will be +60-to-70 g/cm2 (the MOI measurement increment) higher than what was found to be the golfer’s best MOI in the irons. 5. Set makeup changes: so underappreciated, but so important One of the most overlooked fitting factors that will assuredly improve overall shot consistency and deliver better misses for golfers is the set makeup. The whole concept of proper set makeup fitting is to get rid of hard-to-hit clubs and replace them with clubs that hit the ball the same distance and are easier to hit more consistently. I am talking about the following elements: Having an alternative “control driver” of shorter length and higher loft. It can be used in lieu of the normal driver for courses with a greater number of tight tee shot holes, or for days when the swing is not as much “in sync” as other days. No three wood for the majority of golfers. Many should start with a 4 or 5 wood, unless the golfer definitely has the skill to consistently hit a fairway wood with 14-to-15 degrees of loft off the ground well up in the air. Having more woods, and definitely a 7 wood for most average players. Even a 9 wood for many golfers will work well, especially if the golfer tends to sweep the ball and/or has an early to midway release. And make it a little shorter as well. More hybrids instead of more fairway woods? As the golfer’s release gets from midway to slightly later than midway, and as the golfer can consistently hit down and through the shot, the option leans for more hybrids instead of more fairway woods to avoid the hard to hit low-lofted irons. Use one more hybrid than the golfer thinks he/she should use. Get the golfer to be totally honest in answering this question, “What is the lowest number iron I can hit consistently well 4 out of 5 times from normal lies?” If he is an 8-handicap golfer or lower, make that iron the break between the last hybrid and first iron in the set. If he is above an 8 handicap, add on one more hybrid and start the irons one number higher than what the golfer thinks he should use. Today’s much lower-lofted irons are fine as long as the golfer is honest in admitting what iron number sees the first big increase in inconsistency and starting the hybrids there. Don’t let ego get in the way of a smart set makeup that allows you to hit more greens and score better. Additional wedges. Or rather, tailor the wedge set makeup to the grass, sand and green design of the golf course(s) the golfer plays the most. It is very smart for a golfer to have different wedges of different lofts and sole designs so he can pick the wedge set makeup for the course he happens to be playing that day (this is a big topic to know what wedges to play for what differences in turf, sand and green design, and one I promise to write a detailed story about it in the future). 6. Grip size and feel for comfort Forget the hand size/finger size charts that golfers use as a deciding factor for grip size. Fit for grip size ONLY on the basis of golfer comfort. Regardless of hand/finger size, the best grip size for every golfer is the size that he feels is most comfortable and allows him to maintain a secure hold on the grip with the least amount of grip pressure with the hands and forearms. One more thing about grips versus shot consistency: Scrub/wash your rubber grips every other round, and lightly sand the rubber grips every 1 to 2 months as needed with 220- to 240-grit sandpaper. Keeping grips feeling more new can most definitely can help the golfer maintain a higher level of swing and shot consistency. 7. The correct lie angle for ALL the clubs You’ve all seen the diagram that shows the ball going left when the toe end of the club head is up at impact and the ball going right when the heel side of the head is up at impact. It goes without saying that dynamic lie fitting eliminates all possibility of an ill-fit lie from ever causing an offline shot. As such, why NOT do it? And think about getting your woods and hybrids fit dynamically for lie. Can’t find anyone with fairway woods and hybrids that can be bent to accommodate a wide range of lie fitting needs? If you look hard enough, you will. They do exist. I can’t tell you enough in strong terms how valuable all of these fitting keys can be for your score and your enjoyment of this great game. Don’t pooh-pooh these fitting elements as either being less important or something only for mid-handicap players and above. They work to deliver better misses, which in turn means lower scores. Have fun, and as always the very best to everyone in this great game.

I wouldn't spend the coin to mod this one, imo too much has been done to it already. Personally i'm addicted to a very minimalistic SM490A Seven head with light milling pretty similar to the one in this pic.

It takes special taste to play these.

He may want to give the tour model a chance, it's very forgiving unlike previous Tour model CBs. In hand the quality of build and attention to detail is superior vs the RMX forged as well. IMO the best CB money can buy at the moment. RomaRo Type-R is another one that he should seriously consider.

Higher pitch tink sound I assume? Head weight? This isn't the PZ mill but it sure is sweet.

I love Epon :)

Hows that for tongue twister. Yet again George Takei has moved on to do another brand. This time though things are very different as the company George Spirits is staying in business as he was not the owner in the first place. He is still an advising designer for the brand he just is no longer the face of it and will be starting his own brand in 2014... About 6 months ago he got into a really bad car accident and was in the hospital for almost 2 months. This is true. His responsibilities for the GS brand was to do tour service on the JPGA, design and travel to various accounts. He couldn't fulfill his responsibilities so he decided to resign. A new staff has already come in and filled the void. Pretty interesting to say the least. Gauge Design Japan to G-Field to George Spirits... what's next? He's definitely a character and not a business man, mostly a designer. Just wanted to share this with the gang, any thoughts?

The Apex pro has about an equal amount of offset to the Black or maybe a hair less. Not sure about the standard Apex. Yes the pro is thinner in top line and sole than the black. Feel is more firm and dense while the black is softer and more springy feeling.