Above_Beyond

Dont fret about losing out on the epons - they are nice no question. There is a joke in Japan that epon and vega irons are made with the reforged scraps of miuras. I love miura - and own a set of the baby blades (which I am yet to game as they are a bit too pretty (i got them because they were ltd. ed. and i love the series 1957 (I game the KM350 putter and K grind wedge from the same series)). Im not sure what the MG miura giken stuff is that they sell in the shop here (certainly is ugly), but Miura: Miura Golf/ has the best clubs on the market (in terms of Irons) - No question epon/vega make better woods. However, as an alternative, especially since you are just getting in to the forged world: check out KZG: KZG Golf (the miura dealer probably carries them) check out a set of their Evolutions or Evolution pros: Great performance for value especially from a japanese forged iron, their blades are better than Vega's and on par with epon's so you cant go wrong- and for you the forged cavities will be very playable as you work to move your handicap down below 20. Avoid going for the ZO blades - I love mine and would recommend them - but definitely for low low HCPs who want to shape the ball and work it around the course (they have no forgiveness). Final option - if you want to try good forged irons on a low budget - get a set of geotechs from the proshop on here. You will be able to get some nice components with extra cash you save. Geotech makes great clubs and the difference between geotechs and vegas wont be noticible until you move the HCP down a bit - so you leave yourself some great room to work and grow as a golfer! Final thoughts: As in my signature: Look into your heart and play w/e the hell makes you happy! If the epons are the only clubs for you - dont get discouraged by one jackass club fitter - find a way to get them. TSG is very well respected and you should have no fear ordering from them. But seriously consider all your options, if you have any questions feel free to ask: I have played Epons, Miuras, KZG and have hit Vegas, RC etc :)

TSG is absolutely correct - You cant deny the basic physics of a longer shaft. The same angular velocity at the origin of rotation increases at the club head proportional to radius (shaft length) creating more distance given the same contact. The problem is (and this is well documented - as TSG points out) that it becomes much harder to find the sweet spot of the driver as shaft length increases. This as we have noted is due to the attributes of the golf swing that change with added shaft length. For example swing level. I.e. Stand with your putter and the club head is a few inches infront of your toes - move to a 5 iron and its a foot or so, move to a ridiculously long driver and your swing is much shallower, as you take the limit of the shaft length as it runs out to infinity you will be swinging like a baseball player. This combined with other changes such as the rate at which hips must clear makes hitting a long shafted driver properly very difficult and to compensate we have invented ridiculous sized driver heads. Besides the changes off the tee for a lot of golfers it is important to have a driver which they can hit off the fairway for long P-5s. The smaller driver head allows for this. W.R.T to the above comment - about advantages for short hitters, I would say that the most important thing you can do to increase distance is to work on your swing (this is obvious). A smaller driver head wont necessarily get you more distance, but it will absolutely make you more aware of mis**ts - and potentially help improve your game off the tee. What I do to train for my driver is to practice driving a 1 iron or 2 Iron blade: This should emulate your driver swing - and you will be forced to work on rhythm and rotation. With these low irons you get immediate feedback that is easy to interpret. (this was a digression, but maybe something to try for the above poster)

message sent to Gocchin: Im looking forward to his reply :)

This egg sure is popular... you two might have me convinced - I may have to order one.

..utter nonsense.. Im intrigued. Explain yourself ... if you can :)

well if you think about the dynamics of a longer shaft, you end up with a flatter swing, which makes squaring the club face consistently border line impossible. Which in turn makes a "huge" semi sweet spot desirable... which brings you to a larger club head, which leads you to a longer shaft.... and so on ad infinitum..... Break the karmic circle of crappy drives: Shorten the shaft, drop the toaster off in the landfill, get a human sized club head with a shaft that isnt out to compensate for shorter shafts elsewhere - HIT MORE FAIRWAYS!

amen; im 5'6' and I get way better performance out of a significantly shortened shaft. Stock clubs are for people 5'10"+ so its important to keep in mind shaft length when you are of smaller stature :)

No you have a few more options than that: Yonex, KZG, Miura, RC, and (I think Mizuno) (maybe more than that!)

I cant find a user named Tario; what am I doing wrong here?

will do thanks!

How can you send your putter in to be modded?

Hey Everyone! I was sitting her thinking to myself about the advantages of a smaller driver head. As it is I play a 325cc offering from KZG (its a great driver - nice sound and ultra penetrating ball flight). Anyway I cant stand 460* toasters and I know alot of pros are scaling down their drivers (AK is playing a 380 (ish)) and I belive Tiger is also somewhere south of 400. Anyway what do you gurus of the golf club think?

I prefer a medium-low ball flight. Distance is not of great concern to me - I find that distance is a product of swing dynamics and athleticism, very few clubs seems to add more than an extra yard or two. What good clubs change for me is the consistency of impact and the predictability of resultant flight attributes i.e. launch, spin and trajectory. With that said the reasons for lower lofts on my fairway woods are as follows: Workability of the tee: 300+ yards off the tee is not necessary or desirable for every hole, so I like to be able to really work the ball with the f-woods off the tee-box to capitalize on narrow fairways and dog legged holes. Thus having a drivable wood which stays under the wind and maintains roll is desirable. (This is the rational for the 2) Club spacing: Im not overly concerned with having x degrees of loft between clubs. However it is necessary to make sure that each club serves a particular purpose and is not redundant. Personally a two iron replaces a 5 wood, however for deep rough (from far out) and roll I would like to keep a fairway wood in the bag. (This is the reason for the 4 wood.) That and I played one of my lowest rounds ever driverless with a 2 wood and 4 wood in the bag (CWB Hong Kong) Budget wise - mmm that depends on whether the ticker tape is up or down on the day I go to place my order. Im a student so there are always days when i feel the need to say no to my club addiction. ...the egg spoon is almost ugly enough to make me want it. (off to find an avatar)

mistype in the first post - not sure how to delete it yet... ...noob...

Hi Everyone! Im new to this forum and very excited to be here! For my first thread I am taking suggestions for what to put in the bag for fairway woods for the season. Last season I flitted around with a Precious Edition 3 Wood and a 5 Wood from KZG. I need to push the lofts down the chart and am looking for a 12* and 16* - preferably from the same series for consistency. I Junked my 5 wood and replaced it with a 2 iron. I find a 2 iron blade cuts through the rough and enables me to work the ball with more precision and I get a bit more distance from the 2 anyway. So let me know - your suggestions (w/ shaft rec); playing approx 3 HCP.

I don't quite understand the question. The face must intrinsically be square at impact and alignment is requisite for any successful put. Are you asking about the advantages of a straight-back-straight through stroke vs. a stroke with natural arc? Let me know!