benny

Just checked the swingwieghts of my clubs(3-PW Mizuno MP30 DGX100, +1.75", 56/60 Cleveland 588 DGS300 +1.5")... Found the 3-9 come out to D9, the PW is E3, 56 is E4. Checked my driver and found it to be C9, my 3 wood was C8. How even should your set up be? I think I'm alright around iron/wedges, but the disparity between the woods and irons seems a little high, no? To increase the driver to D9 I needed to use a sheet and a half of those "head wayters". To much tape, how do you go about adding nuetral wieght? Do you have to pull the shaft? Thank you for all the help. G

Wonder what those cpm at? :smile2:

pm sent G

S2000 Before you switch club specs try chocking down on the MP30's. If length is your only concern choke down on the club and see if your impact location changes on the face. Shaft flex can effect preformance as well. During the swing there is a phenomena called "club droop", that is, the clubhead flexing in towrad your body through the impact area. You can see this in down line video of your swing. Too much droop and you have inconsistant results. This was happening to me. I had ping I3's with jz stiff shafts (+1.5", 5* up), they would droop so much I began addressing the ball toward the heel, I would swing and hit off the toe mostly. I bought (after a fitting) MP30's with x100 that are +1.75" and 3* up (probably need to come up a degree) and proceeded to shank buckets of balls. It took some time but after adjusting my address position and "learning" the new feel of the club I have had some great success. I am now getting a much tighter impact area on the face, fairly consistant on the sweetspot. It is extremely important to get a professional fitting, ideally outdoors so you can see ball flight characteristics. With softer forgings you will need to have your lofts/lies checked through the season, more so if your "mats only". Good luck... G

Did you check thier website? Or were you looking for them used? G www.jancraigheadcovers.com

You could get some thin metal rod from the hardware store (thin enough so it wont damage the green) and some string. You could also use skewers from the BBQ that have eyelets bent on the ends. I've seen teacjing pros use chalk snap lines to give the line on straight puts. I've made a similar device for alignment on full shots using two carbiners (rock climbing clips) and neon colored string. I made it 5yrds long so I could have my eyes follow the target line as I turned through the shot. All for about $2.50+/-. For lagging, D Pelz recommends game type drills to simulate real course pressures. In his lag drills the object is to get the ball to stop within a putter length arc behind the hole ---- @ ). Look into his book "Putting Bible", it has a lot of useful info as well as the overload of technical bable. If you can look past his Nasa training you can get some good insights. G

paypal sent...

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I've read the thread on torque below but was wondering if there was more to it. I guess my question is how low is low? Is the difference between say a 2.5 torque rating to a 3.7 that noticable in dispersion? Do different ratings fit different swing types better, swinger vs hitter? Thanks, sorry fo the redundancy. G

Left and hanging more left... :yuk: Open for a fade and it's off the planet right :surprize:

From the fairway bunker the idea is to strike the ball first. Some things you can do to promote that is to: 1 Set up with the ball slightly back in your stance... 2 Take more club (approx one more for the normal yardage)... 3 Dig your feet in about an inch or so to help create a more stable base, choke down on the club to accomodate the digging in... 4 Pick a spot on the front of the ball and focus on that spot... 5 Easy swing Most importantly--Always take enough loft to clear the lip of the bunker Good luck G

I'm looking for a 510tp 9.5 in good-new condition. I currently have one with the retail 757s flex and I'm interested in a backup and I would like to check out some different shaft options. Any leads are greatly appreciated. Always working the Ebay markets, anywhere else? Thanks... G

Just a thought, I was under the impression that if you add wieght to the grip end of the shaft (ie Balance golf gadget) you can counter-act the increased swing weight that the longer shaft brings. Of course the overall static wieght of the club will increase but this can be worked out in different weighted shafts. In any event, I've switched from the Ping I3 Osize to Mizuno MP30's and found that while they took a little getting used to (I also switched from JZstiff shafts to DGx100) they are pretty forgiving. I also liked the looks of the Titleist 704's maybe look into the 804 as they are a little larger thus more forgiving. G

I recently had the frequency tested on my R510 tp (757stiff) and it read in the 255-256 cpm range. I was told this is more in the regular flex range. My first question is, is this correct? Secondly, could you give me or tell me where I can find the cpm ranges for the various flexs R,S,X? A little about myself, I hit an 8 iron about 150-155 a bit longer on solid contact. My 5 iron speed was around 93mph and driver speed around 104mph. I'm getting a set of MP30 with dgX100 shafts (+1.75" should play a little softer). I'm still working on my game but carry a 9.4hdcp. I'm curious what you would recomend in an iron shaft and a driver shaft, flex, manufacturer, etc... I wish I would have asked you sooner but I was on full impulse control. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks G

After you turn pro... Have the tour van set you up with a ProV1x and Aldila NV 85, you should be bombin' it out there with Tiger and that Kuhne guy. :surprize: Back to reality though, with a swing speed like that you will get better results with a V1x ball and a least an X flex shaft, anything else is too eratic... g

No as I said I'm 6'8", not sure of my arm length. Ernie and Vijay tip the scales at appox 6'2"-6'4". Their equipment is most certainly fitted to them either in comfort or playability or both. They spend hours, days, maybe months (Tiger) to find a club they feel is the best match for them. Club manufacturers do spend most of there time building clubs for their target audience, ie joe q average. Tour pros don't exactly fit that profile now do they? "Time is yours" G

Thanks, I'm 6'8" 265(quit smoking and gain 30 pounds). I'm going to look into the Miuras and Scratch as well. I think I'm going to see about getting fit again and see we come up with.

I'm looking into getting a new set of clubs, MP 30s or 690.cbs are my preference right now. The problem comes in fitting them. I currently play a set of Ping I3 O size that are 1.5" long and 5' upright (maroon). Speaking to the Titleist guy at the 800 number he tells me they can only take the clubs up 2' at most, before the chrome gets damaged. The Mizuno rep says they can take there club up 4' max and wont warranty any finish damage. My current three iron has a lie angle of 65' if I'm not mistaken. Standards for the 690 is 61' for the MP30 its 58'. Is there any hope out there that a guy like me can find a set of forgings that fit me? Should I be concerned at the possible/deffinate damage that will occur to the finish? Can I request the clubs to be bent before going to finish? Any help, thanks G