joey3108

Jonny5, Hornyjuan pretty much 99% correct. ( I'm not sure what is the 1% :laugh: ) Just call or email me if you have any question, I can do pretty much almost as far as your wild imagination can go. :smile1: To all, I have to add that this club has been spined and treated w/ dowel. BTW, I'm really having fun reading all your email about your offer on this wedge. Honestly, i might have a problem chosing the right candidate to be the proud owner of this art piece of mine. :love: Don't worry! I'll make sure I'll be as fair as possible chosing the right one. Thanks guys! keep it coming! joe

Gawt ! you've beat to it. LOL! I'm jealous! My shipment is not here yet. :o

I found your #, I'll call you as soon as i have a chance.THX! Joe

If you are looking for a lower ball flight from a 75-80 grams of shaft, you might want to give a try 761 speeder.Let me know! Joe Kwok 650 757 8310PST

10 footer, LOL! Psych them up ha?!!!! :laugh: Jonny5, That one is a bit worn out 54* that i got for a while, however still you have to pry it out of my fingers and shoot before i shoot you. :laugh: Joe

Come on guys! 13 offers and none of them are over $100. I don't expect to much out of this wedge. I will pick the new owner from somebody who are offering over $100. That is all I need! The groves are sharp and deep but within legal limit. THX! Joe ps: Do I need to say "TOUR" grind on it? :wink:

Price reduce on the MS11 to a $315 and $225 on the RC 5 wood shipped to CONUS

Send me your fair offer on my reg email, if I think is fair then we'll talk on the phone. Bare in mind! I know enough what is fair and what is not. I'm not saying you should come down to my price, It's your business if you want to stay at the price you want and i'll respect that. THX! Joe [email protected]

For you! Anytime dude. :laugh: joe

Sorry! I can justify to buy it at your asking price at this point. Time is not an issue here, it's more of trying to please every body as fair as possible. :smile1: THX! Joe

Come on Guys! Make me an offer and see what i can do gor you guys. :smile1: Joe

No ! I don't play it, i might as well let other people enjoy it. :smile1: :love:

No ! You are the 11th. :laugh:

This wedge is my personal grind from ground up. I got a couple heads from Ari for him to see my personal grind work and I've post the pictures before, remember? This is a 54* @D5 w/ 35.5" DG wedge shaft and 63.5* lie. This wedge has a thinner top line grind and a more compact look to it and it has a 8* bounce w/ trailing edge cut and a little heel and toe relief to it. I've played it a couple rounds but couldn't knock my Mizuno out of my bag. I don't know why! :smile1: I've reconditioned this wedge close to a new condition w/ a gun metal finish on it. ( see pic ) So I was thinking to give you guy a chance to give me an offer on this wedge. This is one of a chance for you guys to own my totally personal hand grind wedge. Please send an offer to [email protected]. I will let you guys bid for 10 days starting today. Let me reminded you guys one thing, It's not the amount of money you are bidding on this but it's gonna be totally my personal thing for me who i'm gonna let it go. I hope you guys understand. So when you make an offer, I need you guys to write up a bit of yourself for me to use as a consideration. Thank you very much! Good luck! Joe Kwok :cool:

Thanks Chris! YES he is a HO! :smile1: YES, The face is coated. For more detail info, please contact Ryan as he was the one who send it to CCC. I can't give any pictures of the insert only, SORRY! I don't have that much anymore but I sould have a few i can build. Call me for price! 650 757 8310PST Joe

These are Lightrider's powder coated Futura w/ My custom 45 grams insert.

Looking for heads only if possible. 8.5*, 9.5*, and 10.5* w/ accessories. Please send Pictures, complete info and offer to [email protected] 100% confidential! Possible Trade or Sale: 510 TP tour issue 8.5* w/ Amber prototype X flex from LPGA 44.5" at D2 SW. no serial # in 9 condition. Will sell also for $460 shipped to CONUS. MS11 Mizuno 2-PW,AW and SW ( 11 pieces ) in a mint condition w/ no chrome lost and normal bag dings w/ original DGS00 shaft on it w/ serial #. Will also sell for $315 shipped to CONUS. Royal Collection Super CV TRC in 20* loft w/ PRO 95 X flex at 41 3/4" D4 SW from Nation Wide Tour in 8.5 condition. Will also sell for $225 shipped to CONUS.

This shaft is from X16 2 iron that i pull from a Nationwide tour player.

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one. Cheer! Joe Kwok Never tried the .355 method. I've always found boring the hosels is a much easier solution, especially when replacing graphite. You can pick up o-rings at Home Depot or through the Golfsmith catalog. They look very similar to the ones already on the X-16's. I believe it's the #83 o-ring, but I'm not positive. Really! From my 13 years working on the club i found it the other way around. Off course this method will not works on the X 14. Only work on the newer Callaway Irons( GBB, X16 and so on ). Joe Kwok From a shaft availability standpoint, boring the hosels has always been a much easier way to go. I also have the drill press right next to my bench so boring the head only takes a minute or so. Makes all future reshafts much easier as well. Why won't it work on the X-14's, out of curiosity? I've reshafted a few sets of those and never paid close enough attention to notice a difference in the hosel. What's the deal? IMHGO, For most hobbiest is a lot easier grinding the shaft tip as the availibity ( Home Depot ) of bench grinder, dremmel tool, or file are easier for them, as oppose they have to go out and bought a reemer ( Carbite reemer is the best for cast iron and titanium heads ). And we have to go to specialty tool store to find a reemer. Somehow the older edition is slightly smaller diameter than 355, so i have to reem it w/ custom made taper carbite reemer to be able to received 355 tip nice and tight. I found the design of the callaway head are not sit quiet straight if i try to bore it w/ a bench press and jig ( boring jig). Plus there are a lot other reasons why i don't quite like using a parralel tip due to technical reason compare to the taper tip. Just one example Taper tip shaft comes w/ "constant weight" from 1-pw ( Example on DG long come w/ 41" to 37"), versus Parralel tip comes w/ the same lenght and weight 1-pw w/41", After tipping and butt cut properly for certain irons...the shorter iron will end up lighter than the longer irons. Due to the shape of the tip for both shaft, the kick point will be different despite what the manufacture told us. Plus, My experiences on the Callway iron from the tour dept are using a taper tip shaft. DG long taper are available starting from a 41.5" in almost any flexes. My 2 cents! Joe

IMHGO, Impossible without a special mold and bending machine. You'll collapse the crown ( very thin part of the club ) if you are using the regular bending machine or at least leaves an ugly mark. Joe Kwok

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one. Cheer! Joe Kwok Never tried the .355 method. I've always found boring the hosels is a much easier solution, especially when replacing graphite. You can pick up o-rings at Home Depot or through the Golfsmith catalog. They look very similar to the ones already on the X-16's. I believe it's the #83 o-ring, but I'm not positive. Really! From my 13 years working on the club i found it the other way around. Off course this method will not works on the X 14. Only work on the newer Callaway Irons( GBB, X16 and so on ). Joe Kwok

1. That is the old Ruger titanium which probably around the era of 1st titanium GBB. 10 years +/-! 2. Yes , We have a Speeder 757 w/ 350" tip size available a while now. Cheer! Joe

Go w/ a 355 tip size, soft step them twice or go a 1/2 to 3/4 flex softer than you intended to put ( R400 or S200 depending how stiff you want it to be ). Grind the tip ( about 3/4" from the tip ) to get a perfect tight, so it would be easier to self hold it during epoxy curing. This method doesn't require you to bore or to split the end of the shaft to fit the hosel.The old ferrules can be safe and reuse by using a wet tissue technique, however require some experiences to be able to heat it up without melting the ferrule. This technique only good for steel shafted one. Cheer! Joe Kwok

Did you try posting a WTB ad here:http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/realcameronfans/ Nope! :wink:

I'm quite aware w/ the rediculous prices :surprize: , That is why i post a thread here and some other forums to get a better offer. Who knows!!!! :smile1: Thanks a lot anyway! I will contact him as my last source. Thanks again! Joe