My friend in Thailand has a J33 P 8.5* Tour on it's way to him 200 grm head. He is going to have a GD PM 702 S flex fitted to it. He does not have much confidence in the clubmakers over there and wants tipping advice. The Build to Frequency is 6.7. or 250 CPMs at 45" and 254 CPMs at 44.5" How much should the GD PM 702 be tipped?

You don't have a shaft fitted to a head...you have the shaft AND head fitted to the player.

Or maybe I misunderstand the question?

It is not cheap when you consider you're doing all the clubs...but it is the BEST way to assure your clubs are as close to perfect as possible.

Liquid glass really doesn't do repair work as well as it PROTECTS the head.

All my drivers and woods have a MINIMIM of four coats...as do the graphite shafts.

Also, a good tip to use when you get scuff marks on the composite heads is silicone.

they've still got some way to go though.....

Those are SAH-WEET! I LOVE the looks of the TW901's....what kinda price range we talkin bout?

so it pays to be experimental!!!! :laugh: :laugh:

I've been telling my wife that for years! :laugh:

I had the Eldik-N and the one thing I found interesting was when I disassembled it to get it powdercoated, I found that the bacweight had two hollow ports, or "tunnels" that you could load with weight (lead or tungsten...etc) and increase the rear weight, greatly affecting the MOI.

No ONE told me this!

A couple more "accessable" options would be the Grafalloy NT Comp which was lighter than the Accuflex...still, pretty tight...but still appealing more to the "Hitter species of golfers.

Then the Aldila Protopype which I only had the opportunity to hit about a year ago when it was a prototype-protopype and it made the stoutness of the Evo look like a fly-fishing pole...that was one MEATY sucker.

Most 50 gram shafts sold today have torque ratings of 5° or more making them very hard to control. The New Nano Graphtek Lite features an optimum torque rating of 4.5° to 5° in the Super Senior flex. The New Nano Graphtek Lite incorporates the latest technology to produce an ultra light weight shaft with structural stability to improve consistency and accuracy. Best suited for mid to high handicap golfers looking to increase club head speed for extra distance without swinging harder.

FLEX WEIGHT TORQUE FLEX POINT

S-Stiff 59g 4.5° MID

R-Regular 56g 4.5° MID

If you want nanotechnology, go with the Accuflex Evolution. One of the best out there!

The bold print is a copy and paste from their website...but, I guess I'm confused....I thought that they had this name for awhile but in name only.

Am I wrong?

I vaguely recall in a discussion with someone that they took on the name, but didn't incorporate the Nanotube porcess in the manufacturing of their components.

Again, I could be wrong (Lord knows it won't be the first time :rolleyes:

I DO agree the Evolution shaft from Accuflex is a great shaft...have one in one of my drivers as we speak...it's an extremely stout lil' fellow with very low torque that is very stable...but also tough to hit for those with a more fluidic swing.

For those players, I'd strongly recommend the new Vengeance shaft from Tour Swing that comes in lighter (65gms) and higher torque (around 3.2).

For me, the Evo doesn't have the "feel" I wanted (but it kicks!)...you don't really feel it load like I'd want...but then again, the results cannot be ignored...it delivers the goods.

The Vengeance Does offer great feel, and load...

Basically, different strokes (shafts) for different folks.

This is a spectacularly beautiful 2005 Eldik-N prototype that I bought from Chis a few months back.

Shortly after, I sent it to CustomClub Coatings to proactively stengthen the finish integrity.

I also added a Gauge Design Blue grip (I have the original black one which I'll ship along with this as well).

This putter is perfect in every way, shape and form...but after the beginning of the saeon underway, I've found that with the greens on our home course (where 80% of my play is at), I need a lighter putter head.

So, I am looking to either sell this outright, or trade it for another Gauge Design (Japanese only, like this) with possible cash tossed in for differential.

My Eldik N is still safe.

So is mine :laugh:

FYI-

Theres a company out now (at the PGA show also) that makes golf hats, with any company logo (with authorization) that also serves as an insect repellant.

Great idea!

YOU took this picture??? Someone else is taking credit for it also...been circulating for a couple months now.

Gawd, I hate to do this...but an unexpected set back forces me to let this go.

A BRAND new...

Eldik -N- Black Aluminite 34" putters with gauge type A black grip

I have played only ONE round with this...total of 28 putts and a few practice ones.

Here's some pictures:

$350.00

I''ve been talking with them for awhile to become a dealer...and yes, they have three different lines with the lower end version, the "Tour" being not only the cheapest, but I feel will appeal to more of the "Common" golfers.

It arrived yesterday.....even better than I imagined.

Thank you....

did i write 110 i meant around 100. 110 id have to put both cheeks into that swing.

Assuming the head is about 230 gms, at 100 mph, you should get 228 yards.

That would be nice./..especially if it was kept current.

There used to be a website called: "inthebag.com" and it USED to do it.

is it more harm than help to get my NVS shaft pulled, spined, and re-put in?

I tested these shafts before they were released and according to the VP of Engineering at Aldila, there is no reason to do this....especially for that shaft.

It is extremely difficult to find anything resembling a spine on that shaft...and you would find no noticable difference in performance by doing this.

If you're happy with the logo location, then leave it be.

Hue -

Why not look at a more affordable option?

The Mercury Performance shaft is a VERY solid shaft, with a great mid-kick point that gets the ball out quick and strong.

I had a few different shafts in my Ashton (NV, NVS, Accuflex Assassin II, Blue, Pro-Launch)...and by far, the best of the heap was the Merc...once that was in, the club took on a whole new personality.

Aren't the numbers on the driver stating loft inaccurate more often than not?  I've had 4 heads checked by the club builder I use and the results amazed me...Cleveland Launcher stamped 9.5 was really about an 8.5, KZG Gemeni was stamped 12 but is really 11*, TM 510 mid stamped 10.5* is really 12* and a 983K was stamped 9.5* but was really a 9*.  He's told me to never rely on whats stamped on the club itself.  I found that a fascinating piece of information.

Another reason to buy components.

A GOOD component company has each head inspected and will come with a sticker indicating actual loft, lie information.

Thus, when you order, you can request they pull an actualy spec, not stamped.

Here's a page of some of Jims other lubs...please email me if you want me to add one of yours!

http://www.alltimevideo.com/ccc.htm

Less dimples is all I know.... that and the perfunctory claims you get every year... "longer distance, greater stopping power...yada yada".

Joey-

Oops! I think you're right!

I was going to post you were wrong..and went to offer links from places I've bought Fuji shafts individually...and saw the little fine print saying they must come assembled.

Well, I guess this answers Chris other question....

If you don't get caught, you won't get in trouble..

I have bought at LEAST a dozen Fujis since last year, including two 757's and got them all individually.

Wow.

Guess it doesn't matter for me now since I've found everything I need in the Mercury line.

Chris,

Where'd you hear that from?

Since last October or November, ANYONE can buy Fuji shafts as components.

This is one of the reasons that they aren't commanding the high dollars on Ebay anymore...their not unique and hard to get ahold of anymore.

Often I think the key to success is change.

How many times have we done ourselves, or seen others gain success thru change?

Only to see it dissolve later down the road?

Reason is, when a person changes to a new putter or style, it requires them to concentrate more.

So the reason they're putting better is NOT due to the new club or style...but the change, that brought upon more concentration.