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Question for you frequency experts (Joe?)...


NickBooras

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Frequency is something I've never been fully comfortable with, so I figured I'd run this past you folks before I make any orders.

I've got a customer who wants his Callaway X-16 irons (4-AW) reshafted with Rifle Flighted shafts. His target flex is 6.1-6.3 @ 38.5" 5 iron and Lamkin Crossline standard size grip.

I'd like to order taper tip Flighted shafts so we don't have to bore the head, but I realize that when you do this you must soft-step the shafts slightly to compensate for the borethrough. My idea is to order Rifle Flighted 6.0 shafts, but order them 3-PW instead of 4-AW like his set makeup. This way, we soft-step 3i shaft to 4i, 4i shaft to 5i, etc.

Will this allow me to hit the target flex of roughly 6.1-6.3? Joe - I usually bore the Callaway heads to .370" parallel - when you are installing a taper tip shaft into a Callaway that has not been bored, how much to you force the shaft down into the head? Do you pound it on? Push it on? What? Also, I've always used my chop saw to cut the bore through angle, then finished it with the belt sander - what is your preferred method of finishing the angle? Do you do it before or after epoxy?

Thanks for the help, folks.

Nick

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Frequency is something I've never been fully comfortable with, so I figured I'd run this past you folks before I make any orders.

I've got a customer who wants his Callaway X-16 irons (4-AW) reshafted with Rifle Flighted shafts.  His target flex is 6.1-6.3 @ 38.5" 5 iron and Lamkin Crossline standard size grip.

I'd like to order taper tip Flighted shafts so we don't have to bore the head, but I realize that when you do this you must soft-step the shafts slightly to compensate for the borethrough.  My idea is to order Rifle Flighted 6.0 shafts, but order them 3-PW instead of 4-AW like his set makeup.  This way, we soft-step 3i shaft to 4i, 4i shaft to 5i, etc.

Will this allow me to hit the target flex of roughly 6.1-6.3?  Joe - I usually bore the Callaway heads to .370" parallel - when you are installing a taper tip shaft into a Callaway that has not been bored, how much to you force the shaft down into the head?  Do you pound it on?  Push it on?  What?  Also, I've always used my chop saw to cut the bore through angle, then finished it with the belt sander - what is your preferred method of finishing the angle?  Do you do it before or after epoxy?

Thanks for the help, folks.

Nick

NICK,

1. There are no industry standard on freq machine, I'm sure you know this. From machine to another can be different.

2. Frequency machine is only producing number for us to be able to tell where we want to go.

Undestanding the character of the shaft is more important to be able to fit the customers, off course understanding the swing of a customers is almost as equal as the shaft character.

I only use a freq machine to guide me to the right number and build them consistently through out the set up of the whole set.

From My experiences building Callaway iron, if you want the flex to fall around 6.1-6.3, I would either soft step 6.0 twice or use a 5.5.

Installing it on a soft spot after spining it and check the CPM to get a consistent through out the set is very important IMO.

IMHGO, Taper tip shaft are not the same w/ paralel tip in perfomance. It might not be much but it's noticeable for me. To many issue to explain them and i don't want to get into them again as we can drag it for a long discussion.

For callaway Iron i usually installed a taper tip ( X16 ) and i have a custom tool ( i customed order it from a friend who work for BOEING ) to just make sure that the hosel are evently taper all the way to fit snug w/ the shaft, so after abraded it will fit tightly without worrying it will move around after glueing. And usually I can heat up a bit by the tip to make the glue dry around that spot so i can cut the angle in the cutting wheel. And I finish it up w/ finishing wheel and buff it up. The heat from cutting wheel and finishing wheel will make the glue half dry, half way up. Glueing the shaft and plastic plugs are done all together.

I never put any slit and I almost never put paralel tip on newer callaway iron. From My method, most customers usually told me that the club feel more solid and sturdier to handle any shot, And ball flight is not as high as the paralel tip.

Good luck!

Joe :cool:

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FWIW, I had a flighted rifles in a set of X-16s and they were TERRIBLE.  Much less distance than the CW rifle shafts.  Does your customer know why he wants the flighted rifles?
Flighted Rifle are suppose to be progressive kick point and sturdier/stiffer tip, especially on the shorter iron.

I'm not sure why you hit w/ less distance, I can't say anything on that if i didn't see you hit and play.

Joe :cool:

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FWIW, I had a flighted rifles in a set of X-16s and they were TERRIBLE.  Much less distance than the CW rifle shafts.  Does your customer know why he wants the flighted rifles?

The man is an absolute head-case who refuses to listen to any advice other than that of his friends. I've given up reasoning with his type. Placebo effect is strong with these guys. He's already convinced himself that he needs these shafts, so even if I do fit him for the right shaft (most certainly not a 6.1 flex), he won't be able to hit the clubs. I'll give him what he asks for, and do my best not to rub it in when he comes back in a couple months asking for 5.5's. :wink:

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