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Srixon Z925 - 380cc adjustable - intrigued


RIduffer

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I understand that it is not due out for a few weeks, but is there any additional info beyond the pro shop reference? I don't read Japanese and I am otherwise mentally challenged too so any help is appreciated.

I did find a pdf on the "Quick Tune System" that indicates +- 2.5* of open/closed adjustability. I am most interested in the adjustability for the shaft change capacity, assuming adaptors can be purchased separately...

TIA,

-RIDuffer

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Endless possibilities. I'd go nuts with something like this.

Not for me!

For me, it is a 40 minute drive(one-way) and ~$40 to get a driver shafted by a skilled builder. Say I wanted to try 3 shafts, that gets time consuming and expensive. Not to mention risk to head and shaft with pulling them. With an adjustable driver, I could bring the 3 shafts in once and then try all of them, even comparing as close to side by side as possible. For me it is less about the actual adjustability and more trying different shafts in a good head I could actually get comfortable with…

-RIDuffer

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For me, it is a 40 minute drive(one-way) and ~$40 to get a driver shafted by a skilled builder. Say I wanted to try 3 shafts, that gets time consuming and expensive. Not to mention risk to head and shaft with pulling them. With an adjustable driver, I could bring the 3 shafts in once and then try all of them, even comparing as close to side by side as possible. For me it is less about the actual adjustability and more trying different shafts in a good head I could actually get comfortable with…

-RIDuffer

Makes sense!!

I think most Drivers will go this way sooner or later!

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I should have the entire Z series demos here next week or week after. Will be cool to check out.

They TSG demos for blog and demo sale? If so, I'll call dibs on the 925...

Do you know if/how much the shaft adapters will sell for?

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I also think the new Srixons look really really good. Looking forward to the review

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you'd still have to glue them adapters on each shaft and then presumably pull them and pulling them can get kinda sketchy and you can have more chance of doing heat damage to the tip than without them. not to mention original adapters usually cost pretty penny. i think its cool if you have somebody like a fitter with whole bunch of different shafts with adapters on them at the ready but otherwise i dont see the point really other than adjustability. its real nice to see another 380cc head come out tho, hope this trend will continue.

For me, it is a 40 minute drive(one-way) and ~$40 to get a driver shafted by a skilled builder. Say I wanted to try 3 shafts, that gets time consuming and expensive. Not to mention risk to head and shaft with pulling them. With an adjustable driver, I could bring the 3 shafts in once and then try all of them, even comparing as close to side by side as possible. For me it is less about the actual adjustability and more trying different shafts in a good head I could actually get comfortable with…

-RIDuffer

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you'd still have to glue them adapters on each shaft and then presumably pull them and pulling them can get kinda sketchy and you can have more chance of doing heat damage to the tip than without them. not to mention original adapters usually cost pretty penny. i think its cool if you have somebody like a fitter with whole bunch of different shafts with adapters on them at the ready but otherwise i dont see the point really other than adjustability. its real nice to see another 380cc head come out tho, hope this trend will continue.

While I assume that the original adapters are not inherently cheap, I do have the relationship with my fitter/builder where he will put adapters on shafts for me. He has a Callaway setup and there is not much market where I live for esoteric JDM. So if I want to try a Crazy shaft, I buy it and figure what to put it in… Right now I am more of an iron ho than a full on club ho, although having 3 of the best conforming compact blades made I might need to retire and try a different ho'ing specialty.

Why do you say there is more risk with removing adaptors than heads?

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shaft pullers just dont have much to hold on to on them. plastic ferrule part of the adapter tend to melt real quick and gets soft before epoxy softens up if its a strong epoxy plus its a small piece that doesnt dissipate heat as much so it would tend to give more heat to the shaft tip inside it. some people who work with them often are more skilled at removing them quickly in one piece but generally they are not designed for removal. if shaft is untipped and i wanna tip it i'd rather have that adapter cut off than pulled but thats just me.

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take note these adapters are at least 5grams. we had this system in the shop before.

extra tipping will be needed for the shaft to play normally.

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525/725/925 drivers and irons (one of which is a modern blade-muscleback with muscle low in the back).

The pics in the magazine look good, unfortunetaly I can't read the descriptions.

Interestingly in the last Golf Classic most of the AMs that made the matchplay mostly played Srixon and Tourstage irons.

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shaft pullers just dont have much to hold on to on them. plastic ferrule part of the adapter tend to melt real quick and gets soft before epoxy softens up if its a strong epoxy plus its a small piece that doesnt dissipate heat as much so it would tend to give more heat to the shaft tip inside it. some people who work with them often are more skilled at removing them quickly in one piece but generally they are not designed for removal. if shaft is untipped and i wanna tip it i'd rather have that adapter cut off than pulled but thats just me.

When I have seen my fitter pull a shaft from an adaptor they have come out clean. Also I would probably be less concerned about saving the adapter, depending on cost. Would look at more like an incremental cost of the shaft. But it is good to know that more care needs to be taken when pulling from an adaptor...

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take note these adapters are at least 5grams. we had this system in the shop before.

extra tipping will be needed for the shaft to play normally.

Why extra tipping? I suppose a heavier head causes a slight reduction in stiffness, but wouldn't a similarly weighted head have the same impact?

My bigger question is whether the insertion depth of the shaft will have an impact on the performance, or is that why you mention tipping?

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