I'm a little confused on the issue of a floed or pured shaft. Is it of any use to do this before a head is fitted as after head is attached in my experience changes the flo characteristics when shaft is twanged,resulting in head wobbling. Would appreciate some advice on this issue.

Outback in its simplest form a proprietary machine is required to PURE a shaft, where as a tip weight (with laser for ease of use) is used to FLO a shaft.

I will generally FLO a graphite shaft before installing it as there is really no point trying to do it after the head is epoxied on.

Be aware though, the better the quality of shaft the less predominant the NBP (Neutral Bend Point) will be, at least in my experience. In fact there can be more than one in the better shafts

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Thank you for the reply Chappy but I have found after flo is determined on a shaft with 205 gram weight ,If head is then firmly attached to shaft with shim, then flo reading is entirely different. Correct flo I have found can then be determined by twanging shaft and rotating head until no wobbling occurs.

Did you do both?

I have done which I found to be a waste of time. So now just twang shaft and rotate head until true Flo is found, reference mark shaft and head and then epoxy in place.

do you have head in up position with face towards target when checking flo horizontally?

I have read that some have head pointing down when checking horizontal flo

Also, do you use the thick monofilament fishing line for shimming?

Have head upright with face towards target to mimic head orientation during swing. Brass shim is used to hold head firmly on shaft.

Another TSG member posted that once you have floed shaft - it can be turned 10 degrees counter clockwise if one needs anti fade help

Great tip