tekman

I have 2, so far. First 2 years ago, and the latest about a month ago. Total luck both times as the wind was pretty bad both times and I guessed on which club to hit.

Mac hardware is good and reliable, but anytime your systems are mainly proprietary they tend to run better. The only problem with that in the IT world is that it costs so much more to buy and repair the systems when they have issues. Sun Solaris is the same way. Runs Linux/Windows 2003/XP etc, and great hardware, but their own OS is limited in it's world exposure and software developers rarely make the case to build for that OS. For home users that want to spend 2K on a Mac and then load XP on it. Great, go at it, but for a company with a network of 500-5000 computers, buying Dell, or Compaq at a much lower cost is the obvious choice. I do applaud Apple for allowing Windows to install on it's computers. Sun Solaris hardware is also very good and stable, but they've come to the realization that their OS isn't marketable and are relegating themselves to becoming a hardware based company. It all comes down to $$. If you have it to spend, then go high end. If you're looking at the the bottom line on a big scale, Corporately, then cheaper and still fairly reliable is better than the high cost of MAC hardware.

Are any of these taper tipped? Also, how long is the tip prep area on these sets? Thx

Torque is the amount twisting of the shaft at impact when the same amount of force is applied. If a ball is hit on the face of a club, the degree of torque is how much the shaft will twist at impact. Lower=better for high swing speeds, because the twisting of the shaft will effect the direction of the ball as it leaves the face of the club. Higher torque is generally a preference for slower swingers. Low torque less dispursion, higher torque more dispursion. Each manufacturer has different specs for their shafts. If the parallel section of the shaft at the tip can be anywhere from 2-4", amd the torque should be the same for that entire section regardless of how much is tipped. As you tip more, the shaft will generall play more tip stiff, however the amount of torque should remain constant. Once you tip beyond the parallel section of the shaft, you are essentially tipping beyond the tested tolerance the manuf recommend, because the shaft will start to taper outward to a larger diameter and the properties of the shaft will change as the result. Tip sections of the shaft are designed differently than the taper sections and are designed to withstand more twisting. Weight of the shaft is completely due to preference and/or how much the club head weighs. If you have a heavy clubhead you might need a slightly heavier shaft to keep the swing weight from feeling too head heavy. The exact opposite for light heads. You might need a lighter shaft for light heads. Fairway woods generally have heavier heads, thus the heavier shaft is usually the case. Drivers are usually in the 55-75 gram area as the heavier the shaft gets, the slower the club head speed. Stronger players will generally prefer a heavier shaft to help with the feel throughout a faster swing. Spining or puring, is the result of testing the shaft for a 'spine'. The majority of graphite shafts will have one 'vertical' section of the shaft that runs the length of the shaft that will be slightly 'stronger', for lack of a better term, and if aligned properly in the club head, the shaft will flex more consistantly on that spine, therby creating a consistent and even flex when the club is swung. Usually this is done by a pro technician and shaft is set on a frequency meter to test where in the shaft the most consistent flex point is, and then it is aligned in the clubhead accordingly. A non pured shaft may actually flex around the spine in a slight circular pattern when flexed causing the shaft to act inconsistently when installed in a clubhead. The key here is to have the shaft perform the exact same on each swing by flexing consistantly on the same part of the shaft eliminating the improper flexing causing straighter golf shots. Tipping a shaft, as previously stated, is the act of cutting off sections of tip of the shaft before inserting it into a clubhead. This is usually done according to the manufacturers suggested recommendations for shafting in certain clubheads. Sometimes it 1/2 or an inch for a driver and sometimes it's no tipping at all. For fairway woods it's usually even more tippingt that is needed. This does not 'always' make the shaft play more stiff, but it is generally the case. Kick point is the point in the shaft where the shaft reaches its maximum flex point. On shafts with a very low kick point, near the club head, the ball will go higher. If the flex point is nearer the hands, the ball will go lower. The kick point will affect every golfer differently as it will have a big impact on the launch angle. Faster swingers will generally need a higher or mid kick point to keep the ball from ballooning up in the air, and slower swingers will benefit from a mid or lower kick point to help get the ball airborn faster.

This club has been sold. Thanks to all for your interest.

PM sent on TP LT70

For those of you who have PM'd me. I apologize for not getting back to you, however, since the site upgrade I cannot gain access to my mail on this site. I 've tried from 3 different computers and three different Internet services. None work. Sorry! email me at [email protected]. Thanks

I have a Taylor made (retail) 510 TP 9.5 in 8.5/10 condition with a near new Fujikura VTLT S flex tipped 1/2 inch, plays 45" installed. Face sets up dead square, not closed. There is a slight scuffing on the back of the heel of the head, the crown is near perfect. Looks new at address. It was there when I got it from a fellow tour spec member (goodvibes). I will sell whole or split it up and sell the head or the shaft seperately. I'm only selling because it's a backup driver and I hit it way too high. The shaft alone shipped $100, head only $150 shipped, total together $250 shipped. Payment via paypal or cashiers check or money order. I can send pics, email me at [email protected] Thanks

Fuji Tour Spec VTLT tour issue shaft in X flex, tipped 1/2 inch, and is just under 43" long. Plays 45" in a TM 510 TP driver. Tour issue only shaft, specs are VTLT Tour-Spec -- 79g 3.0 torque highkick point. This shaft is very rare and if you can find one uncut, they are $350 new. Shaft is in excellent shape, just decided I want to try something different. I've only had it in a backup driver, and have not played one round with it, just hit indoors on a range. Asking $200, may accept trades for stainless y-cutters or an excellent condition Mitsubishi Shaqx shaft around 42.5" tipped minimally or not at all. I might be interested in other trades as well. Let me know what you have. PM or email me at [email protected], if interested. Thanks

Mitsubishi Diamana 83 X in the driver. He has one setup with the chrome shaft and one with the blue matte colors, both the same weight reportedly. Not sure of his new 3 wood, but I know it's a Diamana in that one too, just not sure of the weight.

Mitsubishi Diamana 83 X in the driver. He has one setup with the chrome shaft and one with the blue matte colors, both the same weight reportedly. Not sure of his new 3 wood, but I know it's a Diamana in that one too, just not sure of the weight.

Thanks, but I can get one off ebay for that, with a shaft, besides that 1* open changes the effective loft to 7.5 and that's too low for me. Thanks for the offer though, I appreciate it.

Seriously, no one out there has one to sell. I find that so hard to believe. Comeon Guys! I have a new shaft to try and no second head to put it in.

Check your PM's. I PM'd you earlier to see if you would sell just the head.

If you have either a Right handed 9.5 or 8.5 TM 510 TP head, (preferably 9.5), you're willing to part with, please let me know condition and how much? PM me or email me at [email protected] Thanks