Richmond Golfer

I did further research and now answer my own question. It is SRX, not RSX (my mistake) and these shafts were made by Nippon for Sprixon hence the SRX and the short irons are weighted heavier (so I guess they are similar to the WF series sold only in Japan.

Anyone familair with this shaft, I do not see it in the Pro Shop listings. I got a set of clubs with this shaft and it seems a good stiffer than the usaul 950s from Nippon.

The best "whippy" swing trainer is a plain rope. Use a rope which has some heft to it and hangs straight down. Swing the rope slowly and set it on your back and then snap it at the impact point of where the ball would be. Some people are so good, they can actually hit a decent golf ball with a plain ordinary rope straight and far. The beauty of a rope is everything must stay back and in sync (and the transition slow and smooth) to swing the rope. As you you snap the rope more powerfully at the bottom, you are using true centrifugal force. So many things can cause shot patterns, it is difficult to say, without seeing, that shaft flex is your problem. Shaft flex will feel too stiff or too soft for you and you will come to know it, if your swing has some degree of consistency to it. Flex is a fitting issue and going to a range with several different flexes will make the decision easier based upon feel and ball flight.

The question of shaft flex has always intrigued me. Traditional golf teaching and fitting has recommended softer versus stiff shafts for most everyone and to err on the soft side if between flexes to increase distance. The flex of the shaft has nothing to do with squaring the head up at impact. If we close our hands out in front of us and turn our shoulders we see it is the squared shoulders at impact that square the hands. If we turn slowly with a club held in front of us if the hands stay in front of the chest the rotation of the chest keeps the face square to the arc of the swing no matter what flex shaft we use due to the basic physical relationship of the hands to the chest and that connection. Distance and power come from a squared clubface at impact that is accelerating through the ball. So what is the flex of the shaft all about. Simply this. As swingspeed increases, the head of the club, as the fastest moving part tends to bend forward causing high left or right shots. The stiffer shaft holds the head square at impact, nothing more. If your swing squares the head at impact, you can swing a stiff shaft, Softer shafts do the opposite. Players who do not have good swing mechanics will all tend to engage in motions that tend to. open the club face at impact and decelerate the club head speed. To offset this, a softer shaft will tend to bend forward at slower speeds and close the face towards square at impact. So whats the rub here. Clearly, no player can play well with a shaft that is too soft or too stiff for their swing. But, what about the in between flex group and those who can square the face at impact. I believe for the most these folks benefit from a slightly STIFFER shaft. Why, because if we square the face at impact, the result of a soft shaft is to open or close the face at impact even if we make a good swing. Thus, with a soft to flex shaft, for our swing, we now need to manipulate the club with small muscles to square the club head and this robs of good tempo and swingspeed. With a club that is firm to feel for us, we now can work on a compact efficient swing which squares the face at impact and is repeatable from using only the larger core muscles. The swing faults Brett mentioned are all the result of poor setup, poor takeaway, imcomplete shoulder turn, lack of a good pivot and poor weight transfer which destroy the golfer's connection to the ground. This is spelled well vividly in Jack Nicklaus's book "Golf my way" and Bobby Jones's book, and countless others. Once the swing becomes one dynamic building block upon another the poor mechanics at the top improve. No shaft flex can affect your setup, takeaway and turn. Without, a dynamic windup to the top, the correct forward move is impossible as the mind can only relate to the top of the body for help to bring the club down. Slowing the yank improves the result somewhat but still that not a good golf swing make.

The key to soft shafts is really in squaring the head at impact for slower swingers, not to gain clubhead speed. The problem is twofold. First, to gain distance one much swing in "such a manner" as to capture the kick of a softer shaft. The more load you put on the shaft, the more you outswing the kick and end up with nothing more than an open or closed clubhead. Second, if you do square the cluhead at impact, the softer shaft transmits less energy and soaks up the hit. This is why shafts which are too soft have a very good feel at impact but the shots go high and have no punch because the shaft has no spine. Harshness is nothing more that vibration of a mis**t not dampened be a soft shaft. To me the key is to work on the correct tempo with a correctly fitted shaft, rather than soften the flex to slow the swing down. A slow swing, correctly applied, hits very hard and needs as stiffer shaft to trnasmit that power with a squre clubhead.

You emailed me on these irons due to my post. I am now interested, what is your best price as I will need to reshaft. Richmond Golfer

Any when hitting these irons? Any feedback on them. Would you recommend?

Whats the best shaft to put in these wedges or the most popular. I would lean towards S200, is that a good combo?

What is the playable life of grooves on a forged club with regular play and practice. Will it last a season or lose spin faster?

Most shafts within a flex are stepped about 4 cpm ( a five iron is 4 cpm weaker or softer than a six iron) and a flex is about 10cpm. So moving one way or another gives you a subflex and two way move is not quite a full flex change.

Absolutely not, the cavities are named "TC." The blade is a TB model. Check the Pro Shop listing.

Is it me or does the printing on the stage 5 wedge appear crooked, especially the name? The others are not so. Maybe this was to add to the uniqueness of the club?

Aren't the Fourteen TB 1000 clubs made by Endo. Best blade I have ever hit. No need to wait. It would be hard to improve this blade. Forgiving and long.

Still using the Epon type X irons as my regular set. Easy to hit and good distance.

The DG S300 launch the ball much lower than the Nippons with the 1150s being the lowest Nippon launch. If your too high on the DG, Nippons probably will be higher. Something your doing may be uplofting at impact.

I have a set of the Beres 801s in steel and these are "players game improvement" clubs. Easy to hit but small profile. Well worth the money. Fit and finish is superb and holds up very well. Far better than anything OEM sold in the US as a game improvement club.

What is the diferences in these irons. They all look similar. How do they rank in terms of forgiveness, offset, headsize and playabilty?

I checked out the Kramski website and there is just no comparison between the Golds and the Kramski line which are loud colored game improvement putters. Which is fine but they are not at all like the traditional Gold's lineup, nor do they offer the customization of Golds.

I had heard Tiger only plays Miura forgings and that his Nikes were specially made from Miura.

I have the Gold's blades and they are the same as the CBs per the above.. Not soft and buttery like the Miura blade but solid at impact. Remember also, the Beres 901 is a "cast" head so it should feel harder than a soft forging and is not really a fair comparison. For the price, I would also look at the Fourteens and the Miuras in addition to the Golds. I would love to see the Golds Cavities up close. Post some photos. Who knows I may put them on my short wish list also.

Swing a weighted, heavy club everyday.

What is the white line around the ferrules, looks like glue or something. Are the real ones finished like that?

I had some 1050s in regular and wow were they soft, much more so than the 950s in regular. I would opt for the 1150s or 950s as they get rave reviews. Not too much postive feedback on the 1050s from what I see.