xxio

Watches and golf clubs. Some people buy for technology. Some people buy becuase of precision manufacturing. Some people buy because of the brand and the tradition/legacy. Some people buy to impress. Nothing wrong with that. I used to be into watches but just Omegas and Rolexes. I discovered Pateks, Panareis, etc then realized I had to stop because I was going higher and higher on the food chain and could no longer afford them. I'm looking for a Grand Seiko myself. I hear the precision in those JDM Seiko's are outstanding.

Just never ever drop a Nowon in a bunker. It is that sticky.

Whew, good thing I can't afford $400 wedges. I agree about the skill in grinding. I have seen the work of some shops and have some wedges done there. The best work I have seen is from a 60 year old employee of the club I go to. The work he does it marvelous. So much cleaner than the shops that offer it and even better than some of the work I see from OEMs. I've had him do C grinds, M grinds, killed leading edges, T grinds, I even had him do a Cobra "skid sole" on a Callaway wedge and The work was magnificent and he takes off only as much material as needed, almost no need to add weight.

What are the specific flaws to the barrel method? Consistency in shape/size? I have had aftermarket grinding done to some of my OEM wedges a few times to get them right and weight loss has been minimal. I'm more concerned about spin. How are the grooves made on the handmades? Engraved? Stamped? CNC'd? Does GF make the heads themselves now as well? I guess the argument will go into the consistency of the master's hand vs the consistency of a machine. The machine consistency will always depend on the amount of tolerance the manufacturer is willing to accept and/or if he is willing to pay for the same amount of consistency a master's hand can produce.

In my experience on the golf forums. Each and every forum/blog has a dirty little secret or a fault/flaw. Some are just bigger than others. It becomes sad when they start hurling mud at each other though. Golf is and should be a gentleman's game even on forums.

There are some that offer the service. Ping will choose the specs you want in their wrx program for a little extra. I used to order from a shop while back in the US. I would have the guy (who was also a clubmaker) measure true loft and face angle for me on the OEM drivers I would buy. He used to charged me $5 extra for that but it was well worth it.

PM sent to gocchin. Price break for 2 ? :)

I might be interested at that price as well. Even the older 435 interests me if you have that.

"expensive crack"?

Very limited try but the V3s seem to have a more versatile sole grind for many different lies. I never understood why you would want to hit a wedge lower, they are easy enough to manipulate trajectory (hooding) or have so many loft options. If anything I would want to be able to hit it higher but no ballooning.

It won't work. The long and mid irons show low offset. It is only the short irons/wedges that have the enormous offset. Now I have recent and good pictures I can borrow each time someone brings up reverse offset vs face progression to show that face progression is different from reverse offset. TSG, This design concept seems to still be the norm in Japan. Since Geotech still sells 80% of their stuff in Japan it makes sense to keep the concept.

I contacted you on another site about 2 weeks back about the Crew's driver. No response.

Yup I have sold a couple of my older JDM sets and the buyer would ask why the PW looks new when usually the pw and other short irons would have the most wear. The pw used with the set were generally 47 to 49* lofted specialty wedges (usually Clevelands). Maybe they should offer another set as a "US inspired design" with different offset numbers, all they would have to retool would probably be the 9i and pw.

I guess no need to start a "reverse offset" debate with you huh :) Another JDM set with that type of design.

My 33/350 has everything filled out in red except the S and U, because it is F = flat. I have never seen another Mil Spec except mine so I can't compare.

For some strange reason I hit this headsize better. Head only is okay. It doesn't have to be a new model. I'm trying a 5 year old 400cc JDM driver and have been driving it better.

Just curious because it is on the latest 2 years models.

I guess it was the head? The head/shaft combo was mid spin for me.

The Fourteen drivers are decent, but not as good as what you would expect from a top tier JDM especially after you have tried their irons. I have tried the 707, 808, and 909. I would put a JDM Srixon and a xxio (biased) driver into play a lot quicker. IMHO the best overall performance JDM drivers are still Tourstage.

Based on testing (but by GD US) the EV is very close to the soon to be released in the US YSQ ST (Stiff Tip). I have given the EV 7 stiff a good run. It did nothing great for me. Maybe it was the Fourteen 909 head, it was very disappointing. I actually preferred the YSQ (but tipped 1/2").

Didn't miss it. This is just a much better explanation. Just to ask which companies use the same heads as geothech and sell them at 2xs more? Does geotech make their own stuff?

So if anything designed in the past 5 years is not a catalogue head, does that make it an open head? If I understand correctly it is more of the cost and price that differentiate open vs catalogue? Nothing else. Just curious because I get sent pics every once in a while of heads coming out of Japan that look similar to really expensive heads at half the price (even less). The materials are the same based on the spec sheets, just lack of/different grinding and no logos.

Can someone educate me on what the difference is between a catalogue head and an open model head?

I was going to post a review but realized what I have/had was the EV70.

I have the 56 which IIRC is 14 bounce. It doesn't play that way. If I were to put a "number". I would say it play more like somewhere around a 10 bounce when squared up.