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iv noticed these have a relatively high torque... 4* crazy is a bit high as well... vs say the gd, which seem more traditional at around 2.9* how is that working? do these higher end shafts twist more through impact? does it improve feel & a sense of kick? it just seems that a lot of people express they are anti left, or can produce a baby fade... how does that jive with the higher torque values? thanks in advance

ant- lol, ya kinda shut me up on that blade! maybe not quite a dug up 16th century scottish relic ;-) but i hear ya. u remember the old ram tour grinds from the 80's? in my head, thats what i am kind of picturing. she was a dainty club... small face length but kind of tall, super thin top, squared toe, straight leading edge... set up easy to the target, felt as if i could snip the ball off asphalt, and cut out a chunk if i wanted. craig- i had a chance to hit the us baby blade version, but it was entirely wrong for me... long by almost an inch & upright, where i need 1/4-1/2 short and 1-2flat, he had an x board in there too. everything was clicky for me and i never did really pure one, but the toe was sticking up to high heaven with the heal dug into the turf at address, not a fair trial to say the least. but she felt clicky vs 29's, which can be mushy no doubt. iv read that the 5002's were his softest offering... can those be special ordered still? i will say the size of the bb's was nice, though even that one had a thicker topline than i am picturing... maybe knock a quarter to a third off that thickness for what i am driving at. same deal with the mizunos... would want to take 1/3-1/2 off the topline. i dont want to shave the entire back face, but just the top back edge... maybr an angled grind just so that from address it looks thin. maybe like how the put a heavy relief on the back edge of the sole. im going to copy some pics of the 69 & see if i cant photoshop it. ri & tom- will check those out... is the honma the 20th anniversary model? i recall reading about her. il takr a look, same with the bucchi... first iv heard. have a scratch dealer local i can visit as well. thanks again for the thoughts. i never ever thought i would be in a position to custom make clubs, one kinda geta sucked in i see. a few sessions with the grinder seems appropriate... what the heck, i can catch a frw double red eyes to & fro japan, lol.

got to admit, i play 29's... have had em for a while. tsg was kind enough to work me up a quote on the 69's. from my understanding they can only bend the clubs back by .5mm, and although i cant read the captions, think the tsg yoro page samples a 6iron for the progression where 3.8mm is standard, 4.3mm would be after the custom adjustment. its about a .02" reduction... 1/64"... appx 20% reduction from standard. wish it could be a little less. i like the 69's... like the idea that they are soft too. actually like the look of the ts909 with what appears to be a really thin top line, squared tip and less rounded/bulged out toe. the top line on the mizunos have always seemed thick(er) (ish) to older, more traditional blades. but with ts909 specs at 4.25mm down to 5.25mm, they are just a sliver of less offset vs the yoros. i would almost pull the trigger but iv heard the ts to be a bit firm/clicky. really do appreciate everyone's perspective... would like to get the impressions of those that have been able to compare these clubs. so, indeed, thank you. its a big deal for me... kind of like getting my dream set, going to splurge on it & want to get it as close to 'right' as possible. ;-) my criteria: - butter soft - no offset - super thin topline - up/down toe with a less rounded bulge thanks again for the insights!

hello... i have been looking to invest in a new set of blades, and one of the most important visual cues for me is offset, where the least amount wins. from looking through the tsg store, have compiled a list of blade offerings and the face progression in mm. as i understand it, the leading edge of the club face is measured to the hossle/shaft centerline. the higher the mm value, the less the traditional 'offset'. my guess is that 6.0mm +/- is what would visually appear as zero offset, but i can imagine the total hossle thickness having an effect...? i cannot find the information for mizuno, yamaha & yururi... am curious about the yamaha blades, as i hear those might be a contender for least offset. but here is the list: fourteen fh1000 - - 3-6= 4.8mm, 7-P= 5.1mm george spirits gtpro - - 3-7= 4.0mm, 8= 4.5mm, 9-P= 4.8mm geotech quelot - - 3= 1.5mm, 4-5= 2.0mm, 6-7= 2.5mm, 8-9= 3.0mm, P= 3.5mm geotech n17 prototype - - 3= 3.5mm, 4-5= 4.0mm, 6= 4.5mm, 7-8= 5.0mm, 9= 5.5mm, P= 6.0mm honma pp737 - - 3-4= 3.75mm, 5-7= 4.25mm, 8-P= 4.75mm honma beres pro ip - - 3-5= 4.75mm, 6-8= 5.25mm, 9-P= 6.05mm maruman conductor - - 3= 3.0mm, 4= 3.2mm, 5= 3.4mm, 6= 3.6mm, 7= 3.8mm, 8= 4.0mm, 9= 4.2mm, P= 4.5mm miura sb01 - - 4.5mm (3) - 5.5mm (P) miura 5003 - - 4.0mm (3) - 6.0mm (P) mizuno mp69 - - ??? see note at bottom romaro pro forged - - 3= 3.5mm, 4-5= 4.0mm, 6-7= 4.5mm, 8-P= 5.0mm royal collection rc forged - - 3= 4.5mm, 4-5= 4.8mm, 6-P= 5.0mm srixon z925 - - 3-5= 4.0, 6= 4.2mm, 7= 4.4mm, 8= 4.6mm, 9= 4.9mm, P= 5.3mm tourstage 909 - - 3-4= 4.25mm, 5-7= 4.75mm, 8-P= 5.25mm yamaha v forged pro - - ??? yururi flat back - - ??? mizuno, oddly enough, has the mp69 on the us website where they list offset in inches. however, i am not sure as to how they measure it... maybe from the outside left edge of the hossle as zero & their value deducted to the leading edge...? i can see the offset, so this is why i suggested the calculation. but the values are: 3-7= .110", 8-9= .102", P= .094" epon seems to do the same thing as mizuno, though in mm... measured as a deduction from the inside/left edge of the hossle...? values listed (didnt find the personals) : 3= 3.4mm, 4= 3.2mm, 5= 3.0mm, 6= 2.8mm, 7= 2.6mm, 8= 2.4mm, 9= 2.2mm, P= 2.0mm it would also be nice to have a face length and topline comparison, for easy reference. i am in the us, so actually seeing the clubs is somewhat difficult... measurements is what i have, lol.

fish at the bottom right... "daaaamn, check that s**t out!" ;-)

hello everyone! was hoping i might drop in to ask a question comparing these drivers... from what i have read, both use a flexing of the crown to increase compression/smash factor. yet the syard places the cg close to the face, while the maxima pulls it back as far as they can.. the two companies seem to be at odds on this point. may i ask what differences this makes in the real world? in the hands of actual players? is it noticeable in how the face turns over? i am a draw player, and although i can leave one out right here & there, my big misses are pull hooks. being in the states, i cant really hold/hit these, so would like to get your impressions. thank you!