awalkspoiled

Would you sell just the 58°? Price shipped to MA?

Take your time. I had a partial thickness tear along with a torn rotator cuff and supraspinatus etc. They were repaired last October and it's really only in the last two months that I've felt reallyt solid.

Pic of the paint on the Hybrid, per request. BTW - shaft is an X which freqs at 288 at 40.5", ungripped. Choice of grips.

A few things which need a good home, since my bag is pretty well set. Scratch 21° Hybrid on Nippon 950. Very unusual, solid club, without hook-bias, but I'm set with a couple of heavily customized Bafflers. There is some bagwear in the paint but otherwise it's in nice shape. $80 Stiff flex taper Nippon 1150 Tour 3-PW. Played slightly overlength in a set of Scratch AR-1. I've gone to PX, which is what I'm used to, but these are in fine shape and super-smooth. SOLD! HEAVY Ping specify - Anser Style. 36" and the swingweight is F 5! That's F for Frank 5!. In fine playing shape. $50

Actually, it plays really well - best with a full divot taken, as you might expect. I've continued to tinker with it, mostly to get the weight down a bit more and to allow the leading edge to set tighter to the ground when set up square. The grooves aren't nearly as sharp as on my other wedges (although they're quite wide), but they seem to be sharp enough - I pretty well ripped the cover off a Nike One Black today. My best shot all day, in fact, but I had to throw the ball away afterwards... If my Scratch 56 (bent to 54) weren't so versatile this one would be in the bag all the time. At the moment I'm playing 48/54/59, which has me covered pretty well. Once my swing gets into form I think I'm going to need a 52, and then I'll go 48/52/56/62, possibly bending this one back to spec to fit in. Of course, if my iron play continues as with today, I'm just going to switch over to the Thomas 25 wood. Thin toe-misses all day - no idea why

8M Squared or 8M2 - high-80 gram range, low torque, very, very low launch and spin. Designed for FWs for the strongest swingers. Not on my last inventory list but they may be in stock by now.

Mrambo gave an excellent rundown. There's no need to get distracted by all the variety - many are totally unsuitable for even very strong swingers (the 8M2 is too low launch/low spin for anyone short of the Tour, imo) and many are out of your preferred weight range. For your particular needs it's really simple - put a Code 8 in your 3w and either the Altus or Infra hybrid in your hybrid - pick the Altus unless you REALLY need to keep the ball down. These are also relatively affordable with minimum advertised prices of $300 and $165 respectively. I'm an MCC dealer, and those are the two shafts I sell the most of, along with the Code/XCon 6, with good reason. If the Altus were a little less pricey I'd sell more of those. The owners of this site are MCC dealers, and I'd start with them - simple.

This is a 34" Guerin Rife Aussie (anser-style) in great shape, but it isn't working for me as well as my GR Mallet, so it's available. 34"/D3, with a Cameron Baby-T grip and two headcovers. The fellow I got it from - a very reliable dude - had been told it was Tour-Issue, but I can't speak to that myself. It does not have a serial number which suggests Tour. 45° hang, crisper feel than other GR putters I've tried. 34" top to toe, 33.5" Gripcap to ground in playing position. The covers show some wear but the putter is unmarked except for light brushmarks on the sole. SOLD, thanks. My ebay Id is Stepsargent - 100% positive.

I hate to say it, because they're really pricey, but the MCC Ozik line has some of what you're looking for. In hybrids it's easy - the Ozik Infra - and not all that expensive as these things go - MAP is around $165. In 3w the Ozik Code 8 Squared which should be available shortly will be SUPER low spin - the Code 8 is merely very low - around $300. For drivers, the Altus or Altus LT must be the best combination of high-launch and low spin at a merely semi-stratospheric price around $450. I haven't spent enough quality time with the F7M and TP7 to be able to speak to those - not too many of my customers have $1,000 for a shaft. Many speak highly of the Diamana Whiteboard - I've only played the Bueboard 83 and 73 - both great for my wimpy 105ish swing and a relative bargain at around $300 or less...

They do offer fairly low-launch (very low compared with most other graphite) and they're very stable. R3 plays like a solid stiff, S3 like a mid-X. As with many of their iron shafts, I feel that MCC is consistently out of step with the industry on labelling these. No big deal, as long as you get the right ones for your swing. (Their .335 and .350 shafts are closer to expected stoutness, btw) The very thick sidewalls make tapering for .355 a snap. Because they're so steady, I usually use nearly a full flex softer than I might in another shaft for a typical player.

Thanks guys! I did keep track of CG ( I have a little spring-loaded gadget which makes that easy) and kept it relatively high and slightly out toward the toe compared with a 588, since I have a high ballflight otherwise and toe-side is my typical miss. Haven't taken it out on the course yet (none open yet nearby) but it works nicely in the yard. Those ferrules came in a huge grab-bag from Golfworks a few years ago - big OD which was needed for this club. I always prefer longer ferrules on wedges for some reason.

I've often ground a little relief or whatever into a raw wedge, but never taken one from blank to finished before. Much more delicate than I'd imagined, and I have even more respect for the guys at Scratch, etc who do this all the time with such consistency and grace. This was a 56° blank which Jacque sent (along with a 58°) - see http://forum.tourspecgolf.com/index.php?showtopic=24079 Unfinished weight was 347gm - grooves already stamped, very oversize, big flange, huge bounce, lots of rough areas in the web and leading edge. The tools I have to work with include an 8" bench grinder with stone, Bear-tex and wire wheels, along with a 1 by 30 belt sander. There's obviously a lot of material to be removed to get to a reasonable playing weight. The blade itself needs a fair amount of thinning since just grinding to size and reducing the flange really only gets you to 320 gm or so. The area of the web was the hardest to work with these tools, since it was hardest to reach (a bigger grinder would really help, and so might a good handheld). I bent it slightly strong with the idea of fitting it between a 49 and a 60. Substantial relief in the heel area, killed leading edge. The only area I wasn't happy with was the web, where I didn't achieve a very graceful line. I'm eager to try again - a fun project - but I don't think this will replace my Scratch gamer. Here are some blurry pix - something weird going on with my camera.

As I understand it, the Matrix has boron threads running down along the shaft (when you cut one you can see some kind of metal thread - whether it's boron, titanium or something else I don't know - it's noticeably hard to cut). TP series has a full boron wrap and a full Zylon wrap. Code, including XCon Code series has Zylon wrap but not a boron wrap, or at least not a full wrap. Performance difference? Tough. the Oziks are markedly smoother than the Matrix, and tighter dispersion also. I don't think they're any longer, but then I think the Matrix is about the longest shaft ever made, given proper fitting. The Oziks are easier to fit - wider range for each shaft.

So cool. Could you PM prices to me, both for spin welded and one piece if both are available? Looking for a couple of 58° at least. Thanks!

It's a great driver shaft - would you be running it all the way through or short-shafting? That will be important in figuring out what flex you'd want - probably a Firm if you're going bore-through. Feel is outstanding on these. On some (but not all) of the Ozik lineup, the '07 XCon version is slightly tighter in feel, which might suit you as a hitter. I know that's the case with the Code 6 and Altus, but haven't asked about the Code 7 - I'm placing an order in the next day or so, and can easily ask if you'd like, and whether the XCon might work better (I do know that torque is tighter on the XCon Code 7 at 2.4, rather than 3.2 or so.. they don't have an XCon 7 R-flex in stock, but I'm sure they'll be getting some shortly - everything else they have at least a few - R, Firm and Stiff.