awalkspoiled

Would you sell just the 58°? Price shipped to MA?

Take your time. I had a partial thickness tear along with a torn rotator cuff and supraspinatus etc. They were repaired last October and it's really only in the last two months that I've felt reallyt solid.

Pic of the paint on the Hybrid, per request. BTW - shaft is an X which freqs at 288 at 40.5", ungripped. Choice of grips.

A few things which need a good home, since my bag is pretty well set. Scratch 21° Hybrid on Nippon 950. Very unusual, solid club, without hook-bias, but I'm set with a couple of heavily customized Bafflers. There is some bagwear in the paint but otherwise it's in nice shape. $80 Stiff flex taper Nippon 1150 Tour 3-PW. Played slightly overlength in a set of Scratch AR-1. I've gone to PX, which is what I'm used to, but these are in fine shape and super-smooth. SOLD! HEAVY Ping specify - Anser Style. 36" and the swingweight is F 5! That's F for Frank 5!. In fine playing shape. $50

Actually, it plays really well - best with a full divot taken, as you might expect. I've continued to tinker with it, mostly to get the weight down a bit more and to allow the leading edge to set tighter to the ground when set up square. The grooves aren't nearly as sharp as on my other wedges (although they're quite wide), but they seem to be sharp enough - I pretty well ripped the cover off a Nike One Black today. My best shot all day, in fact, but I had to throw the ball away afterwards... If my Scratch 56 (bent to 54) weren't so versatile this one would be in the bag all the time. At the moment I'm playing 48/54/59, which has me covered pretty well. Once my swing gets into form I think I'm going to need a 52, and then I'll go 48/52/56/62, possibly bending this one back to spec to fit in. Of course, if my iron play continues as with today, I'm just going to switch over to the Thomas 25 wood. Thin toe-misses all day - no idea why

8M Squared or 8M2 - high-80 gram range, low torque, very, very low launch and spin. Designed for FWs for the strongest swingers. Not on my last inventory list but they may be in stock by now.

Mrambo gave an excellent rundown. There's no need to get distracted by all the variety - many are totally unsuitable for even very strong swingers (the 8M2 is too low launch/low spin for anyone short of the Tour, imo) and many are out of your preferred weight range. For your particular needs it's really simple - put a Code 8 in your 3w and either the Altus or Infra hybrid in your hybrid - pick the Altus unless you REALLY need to keep the ball down. These are also relatively affordable with minimum advertised prices of $300 and $165 respectively. I'm an MCC dealer, and those are the two shafts I sell the most of, along with the Code/XCon 6, with good reason. If the Altus were a little less pricey I'd sell more of those. The owners of this site are MCC dealers, and I'd start with them - simple.

This is a 34" Guerin Rife Aussie (anser-style) in great shape, but it isn't working for me as well as my GR Mallet, so it's available. 34"/D3, with a Cameron Baby-T grip and two headcovers. The fellow I got it from - a very reliable dude - had been told it was Tour-Issue, but I can't speak to that myself. It does not have a serial number which suggests Tour. 45° hang, crisper feel than other GR putters I've tried. 34" top to toe, 33.5" Gripcap to ground in playing position. The covers show some wear but the putter is unmarked except for light brushmarks on the sole. SOLD, thanks. My ebay Id is Stepsargent - 100% positive.

I hate to say it, because they're really pricey, but the MCC Ozik line has some of what you're looking for. In hybrids it's easy - the Ozik Infra - and not all that expensive as these things go - MAP is around $165. In 3w the Ozik Code 8 Squared which should be available shortly will be SUPER low spin - the Code 8 is merely very low - around $300. For drivers, the Altus or Altus LT must be the best combination of high-launch and low spin at a merely semi-stratospheric price around $450. I haven't spent enough quality time with the F7M and TP7 to be able to speak to those - not too many of my customers have $1,000 for a shaft. Many speak highly of the Diamana Whiteboard - I've only played the Bueboard 83 and 73 - both great for my wimpy 105ish swing and a relative bargain at around $300 or less...

They do offer fairly low-launch (very low compared with most other graphite) and they're very stable. R3 plays like a solid stiff, S3 like a mid-X. As with many of their iron shafts, I feel that MCC is consistently out of step with the industry on labelling these. No big deal, as long as you get the right ones for your swing. (Their .335 and .350 shafts are closer to expected stoutness, btw) The very thick sidewalls make tapering for .355 a snap. Because they're so steady, I usually use nearly a full flex softer than I might in another shaft for a typical player.

Thanks guys! I did keep track of CG ( I have a little spring-loaded gadget which makes that easy) and kept it relatively high and slightly out toward the toe compared with a 588, since I have a high ballflight otherwise and toe-side is my typical miss. Haven't taken it out on the course yet (none open yet nearby) but it works nicely in the yard. Those ferrules came in a huge grab-bag from Golfworks a few years ago - big OD which was needed for this club. I always prefer longer ferrules on wedges for some reason.

I've often ground a little relief or whatever into a raw wedge, but never taken one from blank to finished before. Much more delicate than I'd imagined, and I have even more respect for the guys at Scratch, etc who do this all the time with such consistency and grace. This was a 56° blank which Jacque sent (along with a 58°) - see http://forum.tourspecgolf.com/index.php?showtopic=24079 Unfinished weight was 347gm - grooves already stamped, very oversize, big flange, huge bounce, lots of rough areas in the web and leading edge. The tools I have to work with include an 8" bench grinder with stone, Bear-tex and wire wheels, along with a 1 by 30 belt sander. There's obviously a lot of material to be removed to get to a reasonable playing weight. The blade itself needs a fair amount of thinning since just grinding to size and reducing the flange really only gets you to 320 gm or so. The area of the web was the hardest to work with these tools, since it was hardest to reach (a bigger grinder would really help, and so might a good handheld). I bent it slightly strong with the idea of fitting it between a 49 and a 60. Substantial relief in the heel area, killed leading edge. The only area I wasn't happy with was the web, where I didn't achieve a very graceful line. I'm eager to try again - a fun project - but I don't think this will replace my Scratch gamer. Here are some blurry pix - something weird going on with my camera.

As I understand it, the Matrix has boron threads running down along the shaft (when you cut one you can see some kind of metal thread - whether it's boron, titanium or something else I don't know - it's noticeably hard to cut). TP series has a full boron wrap and a full Zylon wrap. Code, including XCon Code series has Zylon wrap but not a boron wrap, or at least not a full wrap. Performance difference? Tough. the Oziks are markedly smoother than the Matrix, and tighter dispersion also. I don't think they're any longer, but then I think the Matrix is about the longest shaft ever made, given proper fitting. The Oziks are easier to fit - wider range for each shaft.

So cool. Could you PM prices to me, both for spin welded and one piece if both are available? Looking for a couple of 58° at least. Thanks!

It's a great driver shaft - would you be running it all the way through or short-shafting? That will be important in figuring out what flex you'd want - probably a Firm if you're going bore-through. Feel is outstanding on these. On some (but not all) of the Ozik lineup, the '07 XCon version is slightly tighter in feel, which might suit you as a hitter. I know that's the case with the Code 6 and Altus, but haven't asked about the Code 7 - I'm placing an order in the next day or so, and can easily ask if you'd like, and whether the XCon might work better (I do know that torque is tighter on the XCon Code 7 at 2.4, rather than 3.2 or so.. they don't have an XCon 7 R-flex in stock, but I'm sure they'll be getting some shortly - everything else they have at least a few - R, Firm and Stiff.

I have a couple of excellent options in that range, both driver length pulls but they're an excellent weight for a FW - right around 73gm uncut and they'd be easy to trim. One's an MCC Matrix R2 HT, tipped to play firm, the other's an MCC MFS75 R flex, which is untipped but is plenty long enought to tip to your preference. The Matrix is a superb shaft - MCC's top of the line when it came out, the MFS75 is solid and offers excellent stability with some kick...

I have and like both and totally agree with SFgolfer, except I do consider the Nippon a fine shaft - it's just a much smoother experience than PX, and wouldn't be a good match in a mixed set. Go PX HL.

PM sent with some ideas - forgot I also have an R510 TP 9.5/757 Stiff.

Can you give an idea of his swingspeed or driver carry distance, tempo, typical miss and so on? Good player or in need of serious game-improvement stix? I have a ton of stuff in decent or better shape, some very high-end, some entry-level, and I'm sure others do too, but it would help to know whether he needs Stiff, R-Flex, X flex, etc...

My pleasure. Swingweight DOES matter - it affects the feel of the club and also the stiffness of the shaft. Essentially each added swingweight point softens the shaft by 1 cpm. However, if you know what you like and tell your clubbuilder he'll set them up just how you want them - few golfers can tell one or two points either way, but many can tell three or four. Most OEM sets will be in the range of C8 (some Pings) to D2 (Macgregor, Wilson) but most will be right around D1. Nothing should go wrong with the pull or install if your guy's careful - the PX are terrific shafts and you're gonna love 'em. Don't go too stiff is all I'd say...

These are not a difficult install at all, but can be difficult to fit properly, since their performance characteristics are so different from any other shaft except the True Temper Black Gold. You'll need .355 Taper shafts, and they are of course butt-trim only. They are also constant-weight, and NOT frequency matched (the freq is often pretty wild with these), but this won't make much difference coming from DG - swingweights should be roughly similar since the weights are so close. As far as what flex you need, it could be anywhere from 5.0 to softstepped 6.5, but most likely 5.5 will work well. If your tempo is very slow, then consider softstepping the 5.5 (put the 3i shaft in the 4i, the 4i shaft in the 5i, then butt-trim to length). If your tempo is very quick, then I'd suggest the 6.0, again perhaps softstepping once, but overall 5.5 is a good place to start, assuming you now carry your 5i somewhere around 190, and your 150 club is either a big 9i or a smooth 8i. Whether you should do this yourself kinda depends - if you have good measuring tools - at least a gram scale and ideally also a swingweight scale, and a supply of tipweights and ferrules, you should be OK.

Anyone have an untipped ProLaunch 95 Stiff? Driver length preferred, but I can extend if need be. Paypal's cool, and I also have some excellent tradebait.

I spent some time recently building some test clubs on Black Gold for a strong-swinging customer - one on Stiff and one on X. I found that each 1/2" of tipping tightened the shaft by almost 4cpm, given the same length and swingweight. I wanted to acheive one 5.7 8i and one at 6.3. those numbers were reached with 3.5" of tipping (dead on-spec for an 8i) on the Stiff, and 2 5/16" on the X - that's more than two soft-steps. Both clubs are 36.5"/D3. I'm struggling through an injury at the moment, so my swing is really not much good as a guide right now, but i found the X to be very taut, but easy to hit straight. The Stiff played much better for me. My regular clubs are on soft-stepped PX 5.5, which not surprisingly I preferred to the BG, given my current swing. I'll ask the player to post once he's tried them out.

Launcher head came back today, but now my kid has the camera. The clubhead is immaculate - mint/mint and gorgeous - the only sign of use is the plug in the sole where I drilled in to allow me to distrubute the cotton properly (slightly toe-heavy for anti-hook. Txxxx serial number, .350 hosel. NC-X headcover but it is a conforming head. I should be able to send pix tomorrow if I have your email address. $190 shipped and paypalled. Performance is astounding and the feel is unique, but I'll be playing one-handed for the rest of the year, until after shoulder surgery, so a lot of my high-end stuff will have to go out the door. I'll also be offering a mint 9.5° HTEC proto with 5 hosels

I have a Tour Cleveland Launcher 460 - 9.5°, sits square, cotton-stuffed up to 209gm for a very solid feel and the ability to build to shorter lengths. It's on the way back from refinishing - should be here in a day or two. If you're interested I can send pix once it arrives. It was my gamer but I'm done for the year (shoulder surgery) so it's available.