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joey3108

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Everything posted by joey3108

  1. Looking at you second pic from the top, I was just wondering...on that pic by the corner toe, it looks like a touch up work or is that only a shadow? I don't know if anybody see it the same thing i do. Just curious! :smile1: Great Price though! Cheers! Joe :cool:
  2. O Jimmy! Just play it till they are drop dead. LOL :laugh: :whistle: WHat's uuuuuuuuuuuuuup? Joe :cool:
  3. Well! They could or might loose their dealership priviledege if i'm not wrong. However, It probably apply only for American edition/issue not japanes one. Beats me! :-D I don't understand how strick their rule is. :wink: Cheers! joe :cool:
  4. indacup, That's apply only on the Pro Vista and Vista Tour Only if I'm not wrong. Other than that as far as i know every Fuji Dealer are not supposed to sell shaft only. They want to make sure that they can control their waranty replacement from their pointed dealers only. And also they want to make sure their dealer is capable on handling a good work. At least those are some of the reason they do this agreement. I'm sure there are other stuff to that i can't remember one by one on the agreement. Cheers! Joe :cool:
  5. I can't help it to laugh to. LMAO! Anyway, I would like to give a little comment here. IMHGO, It doesn't really matter who forged the club to get a soft feel. It's all depend on what quality, grade of metal and finish they are using/doing and how they build the club to a finish products. Cheers! joe :cool:
  6. joey3108 replied to DemolitionMan's post in a topic in Buy, Sell, & Trade
    Here is a picture when it's new. The right one is the satin nickel. Joe :cool:
  7. joey3108 replied to DemolitionMan's post in a topic in Buy, Sell, & Trade
    I would have to say plays softer than your 6.5 PX at around 1/2 flex. For 90-94 swing speeed, you should have no problem w/ this soft step DGX100. If I'm not wrong, i put everything at D2.5 except PW at D3.5 @38" 5 iron. I hope everything still the same set up I did.Joe
  8. joey3108 replied to DemolitionMan's post in a topic in Buy, Sell, & Trade
    Let me add a bit here! These set was my personal set that DM stole it from me. He only let me have a couple rounds only when he stole it. :wink: Back then I only order 1 set only in satin nickel. I've never seen one other than these set. Cheers! Joe :cool:
  9. joey3108 replied to br61's post in a topic in Buy, Sell, & Trade
    The specs of VTLT are, 79gr, 3.0* of torque and high bend point. Lowballers might be better off not using this shaft because it gives flatter and hotter ballflight. Your 300 tour is on it's way back to your mansion. :smile1: The Fedex truck driver pick it up today. THX! Joe :cool:
  10. PAINTFILL BOTTLE This bottle dispenses small amounts of paint through a needle tip into fine engraving. Order Number PBT Paintfill Bottle $2.25 @ golfworks.com Good luck! Joe Kwok
  11. Wrap a rubber band or weather strip foam on the 2 grams screws.It will increase 1-2 sw only the most. Joe :cool:
  12. It's a tough one to chose if you are asking for a lower ball flight than DGS300. I probably have to modify the shaft to make the kick point higher by tipping and s flex to become an x to accomodate your swing speed IMO. For more detail info, you can email me or call me. Joe Kwok :cool:
  13. Joe, who did that work? CCC? YUP!!!
  14. I know some of you like to see it. Here is the result picture. Enjoy! Joe :cool:
  15. joey3108 replied to BJL's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    The blue tape are the template from a REAL lehman grind and on this picture, i put the template on the retail head. Joe :cool:
  16. joey3108 replied to BJL's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Mostly are cosmetic only IMO. However, cosmetic are quite a big problem for most of us, including pro players. Joe :cool:
  17. I don't think you want to do that. WHY? 1. The old days of Honma, they bought a wood block from a American vendor who gave them a second quality wood ( we don't know which one is yours). After a while they found out why their head doesn't last long . It cracked easily. 2. After a while sitting in your garage w/ humidity and temperature changes, I don't think the wood are in the same strenght anymore. 3. For me to reshaft it is not a problem at all. however I have to buy the whole roll of whipping, special ferrule for it and to refinish the head if i have to adjust the swing weight ( I have to open the sole plate to be able to do this ). Imagine all this trouble just only to do 1 golf club, I'm up to it if you are willing to take care of all parts required on this project and off course labor fee. I'm sure there are other clubmaker still doing this type of job, but it's getting rarer and rarer. IMO, it's to much trouble and risk to do it for you. For me, I make $$$ either way... but I don't want to make money without informing you all risk involve to it. Cheers! Joe :cool: ps: I'm sure it will be very nice and let's hope that the head will not crack after 2 rounds. :smile1:
  18. joey3108 replied to BJL's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    You want to see subtle different, You know where to find me and i'll show them to you. :wink: Or maybe you should stare at the pictures a little longer. :laugh:
  19. joey3108 replied to BJL's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    It's not my fault you are a HO. LOL! :o Joe
  20. joey3108 replied to BJL's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Before and after Pictures. The unshafted one are BEFORE custom grind. Enjoy! Joe :cool:
  21. joey3108 replied to marris's post in a topic in Japanese Golf Clubs
    Jeff is pretty much on the button on those two products and product call BRASSO. However if you think the discoloration is not that obvious, I would try car wax first. Ussually it works fine for just a light discoloration. Good luck! Joe
  22. your best bet would to make your own mold for the most popular drivers. then youd have like 2 doxen that you could always use. making single molds is a relatively easy process. That is what i was thinking. Design a clamping parts to sit on the strong part of the construction on every angle ( Face, Crown, Sole, Toe and Heel ).
  23. In addition to what i said before: Now a days , Oversize driver construction are so big, therefore the wall are much thinner...especially by the crown (top). So it's only make sense that is why they have a special molding for a specific head to secure it on the machine during bending. I would love to thinker ( if i have time ) to design a bending machine w/ a very good clamping system that can fit to any shape of head design. It would be easier if we can find a material that if warm it up will form a tight shape and when it cool down solid as a steel. Any scientist here can help? Cheers! Joe :cool:
  24. Even if i have the machine, I will never guaranty that i will not damage the head 100%. I've seen to many of them end up w/ oval hosel , chipped paint, collapse crown, etc. I've seen to many snapped hosel in the trash can of the tour van. In the old days, I've bend PT head, TM burner, etc...but those are steel and long neck. Risk is definitely a lot smaller.It's definitely possible if you have a very experience bender, even that still to risky IMO. I would rather send it back to TM tour department or tour van and beg them to bend it. Reduce the risk but still quite visible IMO. I wouldn't even send my driver to a tour van for bending. The risk is to high IMHO. For god sake, It's $700 club. :surprize: Ask for a written guaranty if any one of them say they can do it without any risk involve. ps: XF, We should hook up and get Oscar to play Sonoma. I'm sure it's still pure after last week Tour Champions. Cheers! Joe