03trdblack

Not a problem, I was just curious.

So the ERC Hot has an all titanium head w/ no carbon fiber right? What is the COR rating on the non-conforming version going to be?

The Nike SQ is not a bore through clubhead. Those are clubs like Callaway's that have the shaft coming all the way through the head. I don't know if the SQ is a standard blind bore head or not. You would have to measure how much the shaft goes into it to determine that. My guess is that it won't go in much more than 1.25" to 1.5" which would lend itself to being tipped about 1/2". Hope that helps some.

I would hope the company would do that for you. You may just want to add to your order that you want the swingweight at a certain weight so that they will be sure to make it that way. Who did you order the club from?

Sure, I just think it would take a larger set of tools :tsg_smiley_yes:

I wonder if attaching a strip of rubber to the outside of the head, kinda like adding a strip of lead tape, would bring the noise down some. It wouldn't be the prettiest solution, but if you put it somewhere it wasn't too visible at address it may help. Other than that, the only thing I know to do is to either stuff it with some cotton or add some rat glue type material to the inside of the head to quite the sound. Joe would know the most solutions. I know Golfsmith sells some rattle stop glue that you can add that would quiet it down.

Tell me about it! I have a Taylor Made R5 MAX driver and it seriously is the loudest thing I have ever smacked. My ears hate me after a range session with this driver.

I'll wrap my finger sometimes if my hands start to hurt in an area. I play full cord grips w/out a grip, so sometimes they rub a raw spot on a finger or two.

I have had clubs pured at Golfsmith, but once I learned about how shafts can change once their cut, I just purchased a spine finder and started finding the spine for myself. Now it is probably not as perfect as the SST puring system, it was pretty much paid for after doing just a few shafts and saving the money from golfsmith. I think finding out where the spine is located is most definitely worth it. Like I said though, golfsmith will really only do the SST on an uncut shaft unless you pay twice as much to have them do it to a cut shaft. You really need to try it to see if it's worth it to you.

My only problem with SST puring is that places like Golfsmith won't pure the shafts in a cut length without paying a hefty price. When you cut the shaft, sometimes it can really become an entirely new animal. You have to have it spined/FLO'd/SST'd after being cut to playing length. I've also had to explain to people out on the course why my shaft graphics were all twisted into weird positions in my clubs. If you don't explain that you spined the shafts, it really looks like you just threw the club together and you had no clue what you were doing :tsg_smiley_laughatyou:

I've never FLO'd anything, but once I felt the spine of a shaft in the spine finder, there was no doubt in my mind that I would spine everything that I built from then on. It's pretty crazy to feel the spine of a shaft, especially in a steel shaft. It will barely bend on the spine compared to the neutral points.

Just curious, but what do you mean exactly about rubber bands on all the screws? I have placed rubber washers under the weights where they screw in. Is that what you mean?

I will say that looking down on it from playing position looks pretty sweet. That is about my favorite look in a fairway wood.

I gotta be honest, it doesn't look like anything really special to me. Just another steel fairway wood. What exactly is new about it? Is there some special technology that we haven't seen yet? I guess I need to brush up on my Japanese :tsg_smiley_laughatyou:

I'm pretty sure my swing would be close to perfect as well if I had David Ledbetter teaching me since I could first walk.....must be nice to have some cash like that.

I agree with you here. I hit a fairly low ball to begin with and would love to have some towering iron shots. They just hold better on the greens. It seems it is easier to hit the ball lower when you have to than to hit it higher.

Sweet stix!

They aren't imports, but my favorite headcovers are the Jan Craig hand knitted covers with the huge pom pom's on them. Man their expensive though, I could only afford to get one.

Not bad looking at all. What are the specs and what head material are they made from? It's funny how those runners on the sole of fairway woods keep popping up every few years and then dissapear again for a smooth sole design.

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. Using the hot rod from the inside will save many headaches with reshafting clubheads like this.

Sometimes a shaft has two spines, one is more prominent than the other. When you find these two spines, you will have two neutral zones. What I have found best is to find the most prominent spine and align that at the 12 o'clock position if you are looking down at the club head. This usuall aligns the neutral zones in the 9 o'clock position and the 3 o'clock position. Easiest thing to remember is to find the most prominent spine and put it in the 12 o'clock postion (crown of the clubhead). This should put the neutral positions in the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position. Does that make any sense to you?

What is the flex of the shaft in the r540 Shaqx?

That's exactly what I did, except you don't need to drill out the sleeve. All you have to do is get a #4 screw extractor and tap it into the hole. Then just take some pliers or a drill and turn the extractor. The sleeve will pop right out. That way you don't have to drill and possibly get shavings in the head at all. I mainly did the mod to custom swingweight the head without using lead tape or shaft tip weights.

The ports in the N model are the same depth. You're right about the D model and the different depths. I did it to my D model and it was easy. I just used a micro torch and heated the screws for about 15 seconds and twisted them out with a set of needle nose pliers. On the D model, you have to take a screw extractor and remove the "sleeve" from the toe side weight to get a normal screw weight in there, but again it was very easy. On my D the toe screw sticks out a little bit, but nothing really bad looking. Playability is still perfect.

Will the object that's rattling not come out through one of the weight port holes? I would try and remove all four weights and see if you can shake it through one of the holes. I did that on a friends driver and it worked.