Hybrid or driving iron?

[Godfather1]

I am trying to decide between the 2. I wanted to know if anyone can post the pro's, and con's of both. Also has anyone tried the new mizuno mp-ux1 or compared it to the TM?

[+TourSpecGolfer]

Ive got the UX1 on the way now to test against the TM driving Iron.

It is very interesting the differences I have found between the driving irons vs the utility woods. The utility woods have a greater chance of going ob, slicing or hooking yet are more forgiving because of the FW wood like presence. The trajectory is usually higher IMO.

The Driving Irons I notice are straighter, lower, with more roll, they have a tighter band of error and you get less spin. If you don't hit your woods fairly straight, and you enjoy hitting long irons, I suggest a driving iron.

Utility woods did not work well for my game, I had a lot of fear if there was an OB close on the right, with a driving Iron, they all pretty much go straight except for an occasional small pull or push. My TM TP U2 is almost as long as my 5 wood but a load more straight.

On tight Japanese courses, I have shot my lowest scores with no 3 wood or driver, the driving irons are very useful in an area you need to play smart and hit the short grass.

[Canadian_Junior]

Ive got the UX1 on the way now to test against the TM driving Iron.

It is very interesting the differences I have found between the driving irons vs the utility woods. The utility woods have a greater chance of going ob, slicing or hooking yet are more forgiving because of the FW wood like presence. The trajectory is usually higher IMO.

The Driving Irons I notice are straighter, lower, with more roll, they have a tighter band of error and you get less spin. If you don't hit your woods fairly straight, and you enjoy hitting long irons, I suggest a driving iron.

Utility woods did not work well for my game,  I had a lot of fear if  there was an OB close on the right, with a driving Iron, they all pretty much go straight except for an occasional small pull or push. My TM TP U2 is almost as long as my 5 wood but a load more straight.

On tight Japanese courses, I have shot my lowest scores with no 3 wood or driver, the driving irons are very useful in an area you need to play smart and hit the short grass.

You pretty much summed it up...and then some.

I personally find utility woods easier to hit get up in the air and to sit when they hit the green, i do not have a whole lot of experience with utility irons but they are definetley easier to hit than long irons, but not quite as easy a utility woods.

I am hoping to try out the 503-H when it comes out and be able to compare them a bit more in depth.

[Godfather1]

How are driving irons off the tee and versatility?

[Swunk]

Hmmm. Interesting. I'm glad you asked because I've been considering the advantage of a driving iron instead of a 5 wood.

[Guest]

I think it comes down to the course conditions you usually play in. If you live somplace windy or your home course has a lot of elevation you definitely want to stay away from the utility woods. The flight is so high and NOT boring. The ball just does not hold up against the wind.

[+TourSpecGolfer]

How are driving irons off the tee and versatility?

TM TP is very Versatile, I use it off the tee, in the deep stuff, even bumping the ball on the green, on par 5's my favorite spot to be is in the trees on the right side, i choke up put the ball in the back of my stance and can shoot it low out of the trouble and get it to roll skip and hop almost 200 yds.

The mizuno I have tried several times but do not own one yet, still waiting.. It is better feeling yet not as stupid easy to hit as the TP. The UX1 has what i consider to be the ideal leading edge.

[Breal]

I have been working with the Sonartec MD. Man you can hit that thing a mile thats one to seriously look at. IMO

[rickylau]

Ive got the UX1 on the way now to test against the TM driving Iron.

It is very interesting the differences I have found between the driving irons vs the utility woods. The utility woods have a greater chance of going ob, slicing or hooking yet are more forgiving because of the FW wood like presence. The trajectory is usually higher IMO.

The Driving Irons I notice are straighter, lower, with more roll, they have a tighter band of error and you get less spin. If you don't hit your woods fairly straight, and you enjoy hitting long irons, I suggest a driving iron.

Utility woods did not work well for my game,  I had a lot of fear if  there was an OB close on the right, with a driving Iron, they all pretty much go straight except for an occasional small pull or push. My TM TP U2 is almost as long as my 5 wood but a load more straight.

On tight Japanese courses, I have shot my lowest scores with no 3 wood or driver, the driving irons are very useful in an area you need to play smart and hit the short grass.

Hmm...What loft is your 5 wood? I understand that 5 woods are typically 18 or 19 degrees...But the TM TP 2U is 16 degrees...So I'm led to believe that the TM TP 2U 'should' hit the ball further than the 5-wood... Cause I'm planning on getting one of those to replace my antique Callaway WarBird 5 wood (which I assume to be of 19 degree loft)...Should I go for the 2U or 3U?