junior_golfer Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 I have a Titleist 983 10.5 degree driver. It has a grafalloy prolite shaft in it in regular flex, olbviously bore through. I was wondering what the difference in selecting a shaft for a bore through driver is apposed to a standard driver (non bore through) ? Is there any? please help!?! thanks. :smile1: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpcw Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Junior, I will leave this up to the many professionals on this site who build clubs. I am glad to see you with a regular flex, when I was between 10-15 yrs of age I had a persimmon driver (~170cc?) and it had an aluminum shaft!! It had to be from the late 1960's. I was pumped when I could feel that shaft load up and flex. What I can offer is a bore-through, by it's physical design, should play a tad stiffer than a non bore-through. That axis, that point is where the rotational forces occur. Think of a hinge as a shaft and the club head as the door. Bore-through makes the club (imo) play a wee bit stiffer. So...if you are looking for a new shaft, take everything into consideration. When I was 12 I took a hack saw and cut down the aluminum shaft (don't try it). It was too long. You are spoiled with the thousands of shafts available. The grafalloy Pro Launch in R might be great for you. Keep swinging and good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickBooras Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 The first thing to consider is the tip diameter. Obviously you need a .335 tip for your Titleist. 2nd is the flex. The Titleist has a VERY deep bore, as you can see. Somewhere around 3.5", IIRC. The problem with this is that in a standard bore, roughly 1.25" - 1.5" of shaft are immobilized by the head, however, in a Titleist, you more than double that, giving you the effect of extra tip-trimming on the shaft (read: it gets a lot stiffer). In my experience, depending on the shaft, the Titleist bore will generally stiffen a shaft 1 to 1.5 flexes, so if you're wanting a stiff shaft, I'd suggest purchasing a regular. Note: IMO, this is not true in all borethroughs. A Callaway Steelhead III has a borethrough, however, the entire depth of the hosel is only about 1". Depending on how much shaft you leave sticking out of the head, and eventually grind off, the flex should still remain roughly what it is labeled on the shaft. It may play a few CPM's stiffer, but it's nothing to really concern yourself about, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey3108 Posted February 19, 2005 Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 I have a Titleist 983 10.5 degree driver. It has a grafalloy prolite shaft in it in regular flex, olbviously bore through. I was wondering what the difference in selecting a shaft for a bore through driver is apposed to a standard driver (non bore through) ? Is there any? please help!?! thanks. :smile1: For most hobbiest club builder that doesn't have enough proper tools and experiences, i would suggest you just to cut the old shaft and drill it 1 1/2"- 1 3/4" depth progessively starting w/ a smaller drill bit and work it out as you go along till the wall are clean and fit the new shaft. Trying to safe the shaft from a titleist head w/ no experience and proper tools, you most likely burn the paint of the head.Just pick any shaft flex you think is right for your swing and just glue it w/ 1 1/2" - 1 3/4 depth insertion, It should play a true flex that you picked. Good luck! Joe Kwok :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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