AKFLY Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 For irons - how long should you make them ? What size dowel for taper tip shafts ? Substitue for Wood ? Is it really worth it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFLY Posted January 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2004 Come on - I don't think I wrote the topic in Lithuanian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 29, 2004 Report Share Posted January 29, 2004 Come on - I don't think I wrote the topic in Lithuanian. No you didn't . Just asked my local repair guy about this . It's called blueprinting as you probably know . He has never done this and also said Titleist use to do it but not anymore . If it's any consolation to you , if Joe was here he'd be able to tell you what you need to know :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeRat Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 Fly, Just inserting wooded dowels in the shaft tip is not blueprinting. Blueprinting is frequency matching, weight matching, FLOing and making each club to matching specifications. Dowels in the hosel is just a technique used to make the club feel a little more solid at impact by muting vibration just a touch. For taper tips, just go to the hardware store and get the 5/16" pre-cut fluted dowels that are used in woodworking. Drill a hole through the length of the dowel to let air pass through when you epoxy the head on. Some guys slather the dowel with epoxy and insert it from the butt end of the shaft and try to ram it down to the tip with a ramrod. I can only get the dowel to within two inches of the tip using this method, so I hand-sand the dowel and insert it either from the but or directly at the tip - either way, you want it to fit tightly. It is a lot of extra work for only a subtle difference in feel, but when you're trying to maximize the experience of hitting a golf ball, why not? Good luck, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFLY Posted February 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 Fly,Just inserting wooded dowels in the shaft tip is not blueprinting. Blueprinting is frequency matching, weight matching, FLOing and making each club to matching specifications. Dowels in the hosel is just a technique used to make the club feel a little more solid at impact by muting vibration just a touch. For taper tips, just go to the hardware store and get the 5/16" pre-cut fluted dowels that are used in woodworking. Drill a hole through the length of the dowel to let air pass through when you epoxy the head on. Some guys slather the dowel with epoxy and insert it from the butt end of the shaft and try to ram it down to the tip with a ramrod. I can only get the dowel to within two inches of the tip using this method, so I hand-sand the dowel and insert it either from the but or directly at the tip - either way, you want it to fit tightly. It is a lot of extra work for only a subtle difference in feel, but when you're trying to maximize the experience of hitting a golf ball, why not? Good luck, Chris Chris, Thanks for the explenation - how long are the dowels ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 Fly,Just inserting wooded dowels in the shaft tip is not blueprinting. Blueprinting is frequency matching, weight matching, FLOing and making each club to matching specifications. Dowels in the hosel is just a technique used to make the club feel a little more solid at impact by muting vibration just a touch. For taper tips, just go to the hardware store and get the 5/16" pre-cut fluted dowels that are used in woodworking. Drill a hole through the length of the dowel to let air pass through when you epoxy the head on. Some guys slather the dowel with epoxy and insert it from the butt end of the shaft and try to ram it down to the tip with a ramrod. I can only get the dowel to within two inches of the tip using this method, so I hand-sand the dowel and insert it either from the but or directly at the tip - either way, you want it to fit tightly. It is a lot of extra work for only a subtle difference in feel, but when you're trying to maximize the experience of hitting a golf ball, why not? Good luck, Chris Thanks Chris , I knew I had forgotten something in that post :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeRat Posted February 7, 2004 Report Share Posted February 7, 2004 FLY, The dowels I get are 1.5" long. For parallel shafts the3/8" will do the trick, but they also require a lot of sanding if you want them to fit tightly right in the hosel. I think that master club builder Joe Kwok recommends that the dowel be within .5" to .25" of the shaft tip, to both make sure it's mostly inside the hosel (not above it) and leave a little room for a tip weight or lead putty for swingweighting. Fire away if you have any other questions or you think I've left anything out... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey3108 Posted February 10, 2004 Report Share Posted February 10, 2004 For irons - how long should you make them ?What size dowel for taper tip shafts ? Substitue for Wood ? Is it really worth it ? check this thread out and read the whole thing, you will understand pretty much everything. http://forums.prospero.com/golfequip/messa...es?msg=141591.1 Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFLY Posted February 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2004 For irons - how long should you make them ?What size dowel for taper tip shafts ? Substitue for Wood ? Is it really worth it ? check this thread out and read the whole thing, you will understand pretty much everything. http://forums.prospero.com/golfequip/messa...es?msg=141591.1 Joe Joe K -Thank You Once Again ! I like an guy that comes back to respond to posts even when he has jet lag :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFLY Posted March 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 This thread deserves a bump - because it works. Next time you re grip give it a try - you will not regret it, and the materials will cost you less than your grips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yogi Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 I just reshafted a friends 690.cb and it had a plastic dowel in the shaft which was broken and rattling, hence the reshaft. Honestly what wouldnt work in the shaft? Its just reducing vibration isnt it? Someone should try shooting some urethane rubber or caulking in the shaft before they glue it in. later, G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilton00 Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 I have used foam ear plugs before just to try out. Seems to work very well without any weight penalty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFLY Posted April 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 I have used foam ear plugs before just to try out. Seems to work very well without any weight penalty Wow - how many did you shove down there ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLMelton Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Great information! I'm going to give this a shot on my Z101s when my new grips get here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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