Spoon Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 guys have been noticing a lot of posts lately about other members seeking for the right combo of utes/irons to get the perfect yardage gap. for me its something completely a combination of all and it is driving me bonkers. im sick and tired of mental gymnastics so i ask the good ole boys to help me out here. right now i am absolutely killing my irons, 4-pw ryo nanoVs! they are traditionally lofted and the 4 iron is 24 degrees. i think i am confident enough to want the matching 3 iron 21* from the set if i can find it but know for a fact that this will be much more difficult than my 22* epon 901. thing is i am bored with the 901:) so i also got thinking, why dont i replace it with a #3 20/21 yonex zero iron when it comes out. but stew commented that i would hate this club so it looks like il have to stick with the 22 901 and look for a ryo 3i nanov for practice rounds. if all those go as planned wether i stick to the 901 22 or move on to a yonex 21 3iron or a yonex 20 zero iron that leaves me with the next piece of the puzzle. what loft to get in my hybrid? i am ONLY considering the TRC utility and originally wanted the 20* but with the very close proximity to the gaps of my 3i (replacements) i may opt for a 17* but worried it may be too long. however i am having a slump with my 17* egg spoon, i get these slumps when i am puring my irons so i cant be too hard on myself, one or the other so to speak. so looking for an all around ute that i can use in times of complete wood meltdown yet be able to use in 2 iron length. i know it sounds petty and all but choosing gear is the hardest thing to do most especially when you want it right away. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankThong Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 guys have been noticing a lot of posts lately about other members seeking for the right combo of utes/irons to get the perfect yardage gap. for me its something completely a combination of all and it is driving me bonkers. im sick and tired of mental gymnastics so i ask the good ole boys to help me out here. right now i am absolutely killing my irons, 4-pw ryo nanoVs! they are traditionally lofted and the 4 iron is 24 degrees. i think i am confident enough to want the matching 3 iron 21* from the set if i can find it but know for a fact that this will be much more difficult than my 22* epon 901. thing is i am bored with the 901:) so i also got thinking, why dont i replace it with a #3 20/21 yonex zero iron when it comes out. but stew commented that i would hate this club so it looks like il have to stick with the 22 901 and look for a ryo 3i nanov for practice rounds. if all those go as planned wether i stick to the 901 22 or move on to a yonex 21 3iron or a yonex 20 zero iron that leaves me with the next piece of the puzzle. what loft to get in my hybrid? i am ONLY considering the TRC utility and originally wanted the 20* but with the very close proximity to the gaps of my 3i (replacements) i may opt for a 17* but worried it may be too long. however i am having a slump with my 17* egg spoon, i get these slumps when i am puring my irons so i cant be too hard on myself, one or the other so to speak. so looking for an all around ute that i can use in times of complete wood meltdown yet be able to use in 2 iron length. i know it sounds petty and all but choosing gear is the hardest thing to do most especially when you want it right away. thanks Just get something around 20°. Here's why I think: 1. 3-wood = 15°. 4-iron = 23°/24°. A 20° ute would be around 15-20m shorter than the 3-wood but 15-20m longer than the 4-iron, give or take a few. At distances of around 200m (+/-), I'd say that pretty much fills the gap. After all, even the pros wouldn't expect to stick it to the pin at that kind of distances. 2. You can build 2 utes to give to 10m spreads but how often are in the region of 180m to 210m that you absolutely have to get it on and close? I would say it is a waste of a club allocation and would rather spend it on an 'get out of trouble' club or a scoring club, eg. another wedge. 3. Consider the 26° TRC. If you were ever caught in a fairway bunker that's deeper than normal or the ball rest up too close to the face, a 26° might come in handy. High and long. 4. Alternatively, a 3rd wedge would be a good 14th club to bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoon Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 Just get something around 20°. Here's why I think: 1. 3-wood = 15°. 4-iron = 23°/24°. A 20° ute would be around 15-20m shorter than the 3-wood but 15-20m longer than the 4-iron, give or take a few. At distances of around 200m (+/-), I'd say that pretty much fills the gap. After all, even the pros wouldn't expect to stick it to the pin at that kind of distances. 2. You can build 2 utes to give to 10m spreads but how often are in the region of 180m to 210m that you absolutely have to get it on and close? I would say it is a waste of a club allocation and would rather spend it on an 'get out of trouble' club or a scoring club, eg. another wedge. 3. Consider the 26° TRC. If you were ever caught in a fairway bunker that's deeper than normal or the ball rest up too close to the face, a 26° might come in handy. High and long. 4. Alternatively, a 3rd wedge would be a good 14th club to bag. Well after my round today I have decided to get a 17 utility. My 4 iron and 22 epon 901 Are perfect for their respective distances, I find getting a ute that's 20 to close. I am opting for the 17 as I've decided to kick the egg out off the bag and move back to epon 202 ht. So I think I have All the yardages covered. I realized that I prefer the epon 202 to the egg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishputter Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 (edited) Hi Spoon, Sell, trade or put the 22* Epon 902 in the garage. You're bored with it, move on. Give yourself a present and go buy the matching 3 iron at 21* that matches your set. If you are stroking them so solid, then enjoy and go for it! Next go treat yourself to the 17* TRC UT, fantastic club that you'll love. Do not worry if the distance gap is a bit too large, you can always choke down. It is ALWAYS better, in my humble opinion, to get a club that hits longer, than shorter. You had the right clubs picked out.....go with your gut feeling, which is usually right and ALWAYS satisfying and buy those new clubs. 2 NEW clubs are always a special treat. Enjoy, you deserve it. Stephen Edited May 22, 2011 by irishputter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambles Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 Personally speaking I choose a wood that performs somewhere in the area of my 5 Iron as a utility wood. My reasoning is that if I'm in trouble, I'm NOT going to take a chance with anything longer than a 5 Iron as at that shaft length, I'm going to be very insecure about getting the club on the ball without going through more foliage than I'm willing to deal with. 4 and longer just needs too flat an approach to the ball because of the loft. 5 is my max and that is also my trouble wood's loft, more or less as long as I can send the ball pretty much the length of the 5. Anyway, the wood can be choked and that helps get the ball up more quickly but it also has more mass and so can be used to hammer my way out of trouble. If the trouble is that bad, I go to the shorter irons. There is no predicting trouble conditions but I find that having a trouble wood that gives me flexible use buys me more possibilities of a solution. I use the 5 Iron standard because that is also a choice in times of trouble far from the green simply because it too can get the ball up pretty quick and a wood near that loft can get the ball up more quickly and pretty far too. I don't give a lot of attention to length for specific clubs except as it refers to my personal length. I once played with this left handed golfer from La Salle who overshot the flag on a 200 yard par 3 with his 6 Iron. I had seen him practice at a range near his house and knew he was long but never knew he was that long. It's convincing proof that it's the Indian that matters so I try to configure my bag to my performance. Shambles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoon Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Personally speaking I choose a wood that performs somewhere in the area of my 5 Iron as a utility wood. My reasoning is that if I'm in trouble, I'm NOT going to take a chance with anything longer than a 5 Iron as at that shaft length, I'm going to be very insecure about getting the club on the ball without going through more foliage than I'm willing to deal with. 4 and longer just needs too flat an approach to the ball because of the loft. 5 is my max and that is also my trouble wood's loft, more or less as long as I can send the ball pretty much the length of the 5. Anyway, the wood can be choked and that helps get the ball up more quickly but it also has more mass and so can be used to hammer my way out of trouble. If the trouble is that bad, I go to the shorter irons. There is no predicting trouble conditions but I find that having a trouble wood that gives me flexible use buys me more possibilities of a solution. I use the 5 Iron standard because that is also a choice in times of trouble far from the green simply because it too can get the ball up pretty quick and a wood near that loft can get the ball up more quickly and pretty far too. I don't give a lot of attention to length for specific clubs except as it refers to my personal length. I once played with this left handed golfer from La Salle who overshot the flag on a 200 yard par 3 with his 6 Iron. I had seen him practice at a range near his house and knew he was long but never knew he was that long. It's convincing proof that it's the Indian that matters so I try to configure my bag to my performance. Shambles good points and i like the way you manage your game. ive decided on the 17 as i can always choke down. there are two tight par 5s in my course so i am at times on the rough, my current set up i use my 22 deg and its a long iron for the 3rd shot. with a 17 i will get more distance plus the heavier head will make it easier to plop out. there are also times when my woods dont work on particular day so the 17 will fit nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankThong Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Personally speaking I choose a wood that performs somewhere in the area of my 5 Iron as a utility wood. My reasoning is that if I'm in trouble, I'm NOT going to take a chance with anything longer than a 5 Iron as at that shaft length, I'm going to be very insecure about getting the club on the ball without going through more foliage than I'm willing to deal with. 4 and longer just needs too flat an approach to the ball because of the loft. 5 is my max and that is also my trouble wood's loft, more or less as long as I can send the ball pretty much the length of the 5. Anyway, the wood can be choked and that helps get the ball up more quickly but it also has more mass and so can be used to hammer my way out of trouble. If the trouble is that bad, I go to the shorter irons. There is no predicting trouble conditions but I find that having a trouble wood that gives me flexible use buys me more possibilities of a solution. I use the 5 Iron standard because that is also a choice in times of trouble far from the green simply because it too can get the ball up pretty quick and a wood near that loft can get the ball up more quickly and pretty far too. I don't give a lot of attention to length for specific clubs except as it refers to my personal length. I once played with this left handed golfer from La Salle who overshot the flag on a 200 yard par 3 with his 6 Iron. I had seen him practice at a range near his house and knew he was long but never knew he was that long. It's convincing proof that it's the Indian that matters so I try to configure my bag to my performance. Shambles With only 14 clubs in the bag, an Utility often have to serve both the functions of a rescue and gap club between the fairway woods and irons. But there is a point about having a lofted rescue club. I just found its usefulness over the weekend and looking at the 26° TRC with renewed interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoon Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 With only 14 clubs in the bag, an Utility often have to serve both the functions of a rescue and gap club between the fairway woods and irons. But there is a point about having a lofted rescue club. I just found its usefulness over the weekend and looking at the 26° TRC with renewed interest. aint golf maddening? yesterdays white elephant is todays red bull! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supo Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 horses for courses. manyfairways, many utes, ONE putter.........! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankThong Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 aint golf maddening? yesterdays white elephant is todays red bull! lol Tell me about it! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankThong Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 horses for courses. manyfairways, many utes, ONE putter.........! Don't you carry different putters for different greens, ie heavy/light head for fast/slow greens? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoon Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Don't you carry different putters for different greens, ie heavy/light head for fast/slow greens? ;) i just use one putter, having one im more consistent with the stroke but having more will just be more confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankThong Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 i just use one putter, having one im more consistent with the stroke but having more will just be more confusing. I have found that head weights of putters make a difference, especially when you have to suddenly adapt to lightning fast greens; I remember the shock I had when I first played on a course in Brisbane/Gold Coast. I was like a circus doing 2-on, 3-off! Even in Singapore, when I play a course with notoriously faster or slower greens, I would play a different putter. Don't need much, 20g (+/-) with the same stroke would yield different results. These days, you can adjust the head weight of Scottys by changing the weights affixed to the sole, which makes it even easier to make the necessary adjustments. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eca Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 I'm a one putter man too. If I'm playing on a course i have not played in a while or at all, i just turn up a little early and straight away go putt 50 footers and then try get down in two. Then i practice a few 3 footers before going back to long putts. You get the speed fairly quicly that way. Most of my buddies focuses much 10-12 footers then no wonder they 3 putt a lot :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eca Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 C, what shaft you got on that 17 egg spoon? Did you find that when you're hitting it well it made most 3w redundant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoon Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 C, what shaft you got on that 17 egg spoon? Did you find that when you're hitting it well it made most 3w redundant? Not using the egg anymore. Back to my 202ht 15deg with ozik f6m2 shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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