xxio

Chris get some pics up of the Honma "Art Series". I'm sure there will be a lot of comments on those. Can you get the Honma "Tour World" irons the ones with the blackened out cavities? They should be 2002/2003 models? After my game today I'll pass on the TNs and just get CBs instead.

Joe, Willy sent me SMS today about the smoothie you have available. I asked him to ask you about a restoration job on a Firesole Forged 6 iron. So many choices and so little game. I brought out blades today at a member-guest because my main set (X16PS) in this city is being regripped. I was only +3 heading to the last 4 holes on a difficult course with so many putts missed (12GIRs). Proceeded to go bogey, double, bogey, bogey and started wishing for my CBs. Any CBs.

Which ones should I get? I won't be playing them much so it is more of a whim purchase. MS 11s new 3 -Pw $285 or TN 87s 3 - SW new $1,125. I was thinking the MS 11s and get them blueprinted and satin finished?

Demoed it extensively today against my R300 Tour/Fuji Six combo. R3 felt a lot more solid. The stock mas2 shaft is light compared to my 58 gram fuji. I changed configurations on the R7 maybe six times right to left, left to right., high right to left, low right to left. high left to right, low left to right. maybe 10 to 12 balls each. My opinion. It helps but only so little. Maybe for pros who hit it the same 80% of the time. May be if I wanted just one driver and the shaft suited me I might buy it. But I have 2 R3 tours with different shafts for different conditions and a R320 tour for higher launch. Don't see the need.

Has anyone checked if their sets are "blueprinted" stock from the factory? Most of the ones I remember going through have been spot on for loft/lie and swingweight. Specifically the MR23 blades and Honmas. I might be getting a couple of sets soon and was wondering if I should get blueprinted Cobra forged CBs or MR23 blades. This would be a major factor in my decision.

I have seen at lot over here. Don't know anything about it. The one I hit which was a "Miyasawa"??? model felt and played exactly like a 661.

Do you know how I can go about ordering these grips? Website, phone, etc? Thanks Like above post call Joe K. or may Tourspecgolfer can hook you up. If you like colors they come in a lot of them. Mine were dark blue. I got really dark dark red/maroon for my dad.

The Honma cord grips are the best. The men's regular sizes I had to put 2 extra wraps so they should work fine. I guess any grips from Japan would be on the smallish side. Expensive though I paid $12 each. They last long though. The ones I have are similar to the V50s but the cords are less harsh with the same tackiness/grip power.

My theory in "the handicaps are still the same" argument. There are just more golfers, specifically more weekend golfers which equal to more hacks. In the late 80's/early 90's you could go out and hardly have any traffic on the courses, unless there were a couple of begginers in front of you. Now every hole there is a group on it an inevitably a group will catch another. On the quality of the forgings I couldn't agree with you more. My Wilson Progressives which are circa '93 I think feel just as good as my RAC CBs with the same shafts. Which both feel better than my retail TM300s. That being said the sole of the 300s are more forgiving for the conditions I play in so they make the bag more often.

MGB? I would like to know as well. The US versions have cast PW but since forged RAC wedges are available in our part of the woods maybe the PW of the Japanese/Asia TP is forged? They both look like RAC wedges

Lots of offset, extremely light. Hit them ball go far but for me it was also go ball anywhere. I couldn't feel a thing on the backswing. Game improvement 100%. Imagine "hi tech" looking Big Bertha irons. If you're a decent/average ball striker go with the Miuras.

Mike, I've run into them. Frankie's bag had them around 8 months ago. He had different sticks though when he was in Del Monte to watch the PAL tournament. I prefer the Tour World CBs though the ones with the blackened out cavities. The shafts are ok as long as you go a flex higher. Looks like Honma is getting back on track after the recievership thing screwed up their designs for a while.

My friend posted a review of the Pro Combo hybrid a month back. Basically "more like an iron than a hybrid and the fourteen is a lot better" for him. The Ti face Nikes have a lot of offset.

Can someone post a link to the supposed 8802 GaugeDesign. Not the squarish one on the site though? Chris how much would a 8802 or even a BB16 type Gauge Design run into?

Despite what people say Honma drivers are really really good. The different versions of the RF drivers are terrific. The stock doric-titanium shafts are not too shaby. Played a Honma Big LB titan bought from a JPGA tour player (Minoza-Filipino). It was way so much better than the D I had then. Wish I had the $$$ to play the RFs. They cost as much as a set of X16s. Chris, Was the Fuji an option or aftermarket? I cannot get shaft options on the ones available locally.

They were approximately $1,200 if I'm not mistaken right? I've been looking at those babies for years. Local Miz has a total of 7 of those sets in the country. 2 with graphite (exsar) the rest with Precision Microtapers mostly 5.5s. I can normally get 10% to 15% off most Miz products here but the owner does not give any discounts on any of the TNs. MGB, I got to play 2 years ago with Joe K blueprinted TN 87s with DGS200s, with TN 87 Gap wedge at that. I had Snake Eyes MB 01 blades at that time. I know I will get flamed for this but the feel was not that far apart.

Play the TS UXs and <UX> (basically U Tri Tour and Extra Distance) as my main balls. Just got the TS <X01>. So far it plays almost like the <UX> with a softer feel and MAYBE more spin on chips and short pitches. I have TS Synergy balls as well that I have yet to hit but looking at the dimples they seem like they would probably compete with the Lady.

Generally soles will be a smudge wider on new blades making them more forgiving. Also the new blades might have the sweet spots closer to the middle, older ones had it closer to the hosel/heel. But who knows haven't played blades for a year now.

excuse me but my drool somehow got on the 4th pic.

I play one currently. I actually have 2 R300Tours, and a R320Tour. Legal for me. I goes generally the same as .83 Cor drivers that I have hit with same/similar shafts. At my SS of 108ish (maxed out a little over 110) there is probably a 5 to 10 yard difference which is not much. It would be like missing the sweetspot by maybe 1/4 inch. I do find the Hi cors to be less forgiving on bad shots (not just slightmis**ts) than non hi cors.

Duke, I didn't know you were "of counsel". I went to Ateneo with Voltaire and Jess but didn't finish (marriage+kid) wife finished there though. Where did you go? btw I sent you a PM about the FFs I saw here.

Duke. I know of a place that has a set of mint FFs at only P17-17.5K. You do the math and let me know if you want them. I was thinking of picking them up myself when I get to Manila in a couple of weeks. They have rifle 5.0s

Looks like a 2 ball blade with filled in cavities. Kronik. I didn't know you were Filipino. Local or Somewhere near BruinDuke?

Close ups of the Zomo?

That CS MOI looks really long. Longer than his driver by a lot. What does he do plant it on his forehead? Chris can you can a translation. I'm interested in a few of the irons. especially number 1 (TN right?) because he busts his PW 105 and drives it 283. 50* PW?