nobmontana

I've played them for a season and decided to move them along ... been a while since I sold them. They were good feeling irons. Just not that forgiving.

After pretty extensive search for a high performing 5W... decided to give these a try. Titanium Face and Body with Tungsten Sole plate. Based on available reviews, it is supposedly easy to hit as any 5W but goes as long as any 3W. Will be shafting with a Loop FW7 shaft. I am hoping these will work well!

I have not had too many paid lessons my entire life. Maybe 3 or 4 by a local pro at the course I normally play. I take more of a self exploring approach. Never used the Golf Gopher thing. In my opinion, one instructor who works well with another individual does not guarantee that instructor will work well for you. As you can tell from all the different instruction videos on YouTube, there are millions of different approaches to teaching the golf swing. I feel that it's really a trial and error process to find the right instructor and the right approach/lessons that match your needs. For me, past club fitting experiences revealed a lot about my swing characteristics. Based on the feedback from my fitting sessions, I would go online to find good drills to correct the issues identified from the fitting sessions. Golftec has been a good place to visit once in a while to characterize and analyze what I am "currently" doing in my golf swing. I say "currently" because I believe my swing is constantly changing over time. My biggest win this season was the iron shaft fitting at Golftec. I was fitted with Project X LZ 5.5 in my irons and my iron shots are 10x better than it was before. The main revelation during the session was that LZ 5.5 gave me proper back spin numbers where as other shafts like AMT White just did not give me enough back spin. I was hitting the sweet spot more with the LZ55 to which translated in more consistent distance. With proper back spin, I think my iron shots are much more stable and consistent. I now have a reasonable GIR number. 🙂

I'll have to check out the Kamui Pro. I was considering going back to the Modart FW in 16 as well. They are tiny but somehow so easy to hit. I think it's the shallow face. Most of the RCs ive used in the past were a bit too deep faced for my preference. The SFW Ti was actually pretty nice except it was a bit too anti-slice. :(

I already have a Loop FW Seven for whatever head I get.... 🙂

Thanks for your feedback! Good to know that the 5 wood is good. I am moving myself away from a true 3 wood (15 deg or less ) and moving towards something in the 16 to 18 deg range with a shorter shaft 42 to 42.5 deg. i.e. 4 or 5 wood. Low loft 3 woods for me just cause more issues during a round than it can resolve!!

The BS Tour B RX that I play normally are soft enough I can probably use it through the colder weather. However, I just tried the Chrome Soft yesterday and shot 73. They felt really nice especially with my irons and wedges in 40 deg F temp. I may try the AVX this weekend to see how they compare. Tour B RXS is on my list to try as well.

All Shafts are sold. Only have Grandista 3W head and Epon Fortune putter left.

Closed? the spec is 6 deg open.... I always questioned how face angle was measured for PRGR. Their RS-F drivers were supposedly 3 to 4 deg open but I only see a pretty square face with mine. RS is usually their athlete line.... but lately all brands are going less fade bias I think. "Tsukamari" seems to be what they are going for with everything.

They do have lie angles on the spec sheet. 3 and 5 woods are 57.5* 7W is 58*

Been watching a bunch of YouTube reviews on PRGR RS5 series of woods. While the slight improvement in initial ball speed with their RS5 drivers is not so surprising... I mean they always have been good since the start of the RS series dating back to the RS Nabla 01,02 ... but what was eye catching were the RS5 fairway woods... Carbon Crown, CNC milled Maraging steel face, Slot on the sole .... these are all technology pretty much all companies are using these days. The ball speed of the 3W in 43" length is really getting close to driver speeds like 70m/s. I really hope they have not created something that goes beyond allowed COR... again 🙂 In any case, if any of the guys here have tried the RS5 woods already, I want to hear your impressions. Now that I have my primary bag sorted out to about 95% , I'm starting to put together my backup set. May do a full PRGR set up this time for real!!

From more recent ones, TM P7MC were surprisingly very very good when I tried them. Near Epon "Soft" Reminded me of the R7, R9, TP forged back in the day!!! Also Honma 7x7V as well as TR20(slightly stronger lofts) are very good looking heads which I would play any day.

PRGR IDBL are phenomenal with "true lofts" as you say. Bridgestone J015CB (not J15 CB) are also some of the best CBs I've played.

Very nice price ... but you did forget to put your hand written name/date tag in your picture(s). 🙂 I had an AF505 #4 and #5 in my bag to combo with Epon SUS316 last season. These heads are quite forgiving but with plenty of workability along with nice feel at impact. Very much like the Seven SCs I am currently gaming from that regard...

Thanks all for your kind words!!! Another theory I had was the bundle of clothing I had that morning ... which obviously can restrict some free movement in your swing. I was thinking perhaps a bit of limited movement has put my swing in check ... not allowing me to over swing even if I tried. Yea... I used an older Ping "Gold" grip (+1/32" @ 58g ) plus added a 2g strip of lead tape underneath the grip. Otherwise it would have been D7!! The shaft itself is not counter balanced. Not sure what it is with this build but the natural shots are a baby fade and very consistent. I can straighten it or draw it with a stringer grip and flattening my swing. Even then, it will never be enough to hook. The ATMOS TS Black is not the best feeling shaft ... especially coming off from Syncagraphite Loop .. Have gone back and forth between the Loop and ATMOS and ATMOS is so automatic for me it's a no brainer from a performance perspective. Still have a Loop shaft in my Grandista RSD which has lost playing time lately, but still a keeper. Have you tried the new G425 yet? So why did they release this first in AU JP and KO this time around? So many "unused" brand new, head only parts being sold on YAJ... Gut says more than half are fakes.... That's what I was thinking too. I mean... I tell myself at the start of the season "I want to score low..." and yet I go and start trying new clubs which works completely opposite against my scoring goals. Even now.... I'm itching to try the G425 family of woods as well as TSi .... Gotta stop this! Could I set these feelings aside for next season? Not sure... but I should really really try! 🙂 I have nothing against JDM woods. I still love them, but for scoring low, I need ample forgiveness.

Tee off today at 8am was around 39 deg F here in WA. Front 9, I had 2 birds and a bogie = 1 under. Back nine... 2 bogies and 2 birdies = Even... overall 1 under 71. At the end of the round, the temperature was still under 50 deg F... This was only my second under par round ever! And ironically, it was right around the same time last year when I had the other under par round. The Summer was a struggle finding the right combo with my clubs and getting into the rhythm. Finally about last month found a Driver shaft that really worked well followed by a putter and then 2 weeks ago got my iron shaft woes taken care of. The only club in the bag now that still needs a bit of adjusting is the 3 wood. But I think I'm pretty close. The fairways are really soft and greens are quite slow. Distance performance was severely challenged due to the low temperature and almost zero roll... Just had to go up a club on pretty much every shot. One thing that was easier for me was the fact that I didn't have to worry about wild bounces when the ball landed. Was a good day today!! Next stop... sub 70s!! My current set up: - Ping G410 LST Driver / Atmos Tourspec Black 5TX 45.25" D4 Standard hosel setting 9deg. Neutral weight position. - Ping G410 LST 3 wood / Atmos Tourspec Black 5TX 43" D2.5 16 deg loft setting. (still needs tweaking!!) - Adams A12 Pro Hybrid 20 deg / Crazy STP 85 40" D3 - Seven SC 5-PW / Project X LZ 5.5 Standard Length D3 - Cleveland JDM RTX 2.0 Precision Forged (Matsuyama model) 50 - 54 - 58 / Modus 120 X, D3 to D4 - Evnroll ER2 Custom Finish 35" w/Gravity Grip or Benock Blue Dragon II 34.5"

I've had my fair share of trial and error with smaller driver heads in the past.... but ultimately the sub 400 heads did not provide the required amount of forgiveness for me. I generally love the shape of those smaller heads but unfortunately too difficult to game on a regular basis. The last sub 400 head I had was the Tourstage P02-6 365cc head which I held on for a long time. Man! I loved that head. Baldo drivers I've tried in the past overall have been excellent in my opinion. The VT511 was one of the best feeling drivers still to this day.

shaft weight availability was probably one reason.. sure. I think the way it works is that you want to try and get a similar feel with all the clubs through the set (except putter) BTW, the iron heads are typically 7g apart. Well... at least the forged stuff I'm used to are. Wood (Driver, Fairway and UT) weights vary by model and brand. Most JDM drivers are typically lighter than current US brand drivers. Swing weight are very different too. D0 to D2 are typical for JDM and US drivers are around D5 these days.

Ultra light driver shafts go down to sub 30g these days. Like the Zero speeder at 29.5g Also you don’t always have to go heavier as you go down your club set. Just use what works for you.

I have the first gen Mfusion shaft pulled from the GX driver. It’s Stiff flex but a weaker flex in my opinion. Let me know if you are interested.

Labworx does the original black finish for Evnroll. The raw finish is really their prepping step before the black painted finish goes on. I believe it is some type of fine bead blasting.

Grandista Driver and 5W are sold!!

Thanks Dean!! The only thing I am still trying to get used to is the softer feel at impact. I'm more accustomed to firmer feel at impact. With the Evnroll I feel like I need to give it a longer stroke to get the ball to the hole. With the Benock, the ball comes off the face a bit quicker. Weight wise, the ER2 is 355g vs the 347g for the Benock. total putter weight differs by about 100g due to the heavy Gravity Grip on the ER2. My initial assessment is that perhaps I would use the lighter Benock on slower greens and the heavier Evnroll on faster greens during the Summer. I am pretty impressed with the Gravity Grip which really helps to let you know where the face is directed. The 80g steel rod they have in the grip seems to be part of the equation for producing a more consistent stroke. I'm also getting my Seven Sandvik VS-R refinished and face milled. Originally sent it to Labworx but they thought that the head was nickel plated when in fact it was just polished.... since they don't do plating at Labworx, they did not proceed with the face milling. I resent the head to NorCal putters to get it face milled with a raw matte finish. It'll have a similar look as the ER2. I should have it back before Christmas.

Guiding consumers of flex information using approximate driving distance can be so inaccurate. I would not think too hard about the discrepancies of those numbers. Who knows. Mitsubishi Japan could be labeling their shafts differently from their global models.... JDM models of the same product can sometimes be different even if they are names the same. Even with launch monitor measurements, results can vary so greatly between different methods and systems. Only way to really find your flex is through an actual fitting. If you have a shop/fitting center close to where you live, go find out if they can fit you for driver, fairway and hybrid shafts. If you are a beginner, unless you've got money to waste🙂, I would not recommend dropping too much money in high end shafts just yet. Wait 'til you have a better understanding of your swing and an understanding of what type of shaft work best for your swing. (kick point , weight and flex. ) As you are a beginner, your swing will likely change over the next few seasons which will mean that you potentially may get fit into a different shaft a year from now.. For beginners in general, my recommendation is to start with the a softer flex. While you can adjust your swing to swing slower if needed, you really can't swing faster to adjust if the shaft you bought turns out to be stiffer than what you needed. As for weight, typically speaking, lighter can also mean less stability if the weight of the shaft is too light for you. For most adult male in their 40's, a 50g range in the driver are pretty standard these days. As for flex, I've seen people in their 40's fit into anything from Extra Stiff to Senior Flex. Not about age, not about past physical activity, it's about how you swing your club and how you hit the ball. Hope this helps.

Been using my Benock blade putter for most of the season but wanted to try something a bit more forgiving, still made of solid one piece 303 or Carbon Steel. Have tried many polymer insert type mallets like Odysseys in the past but always came back to one piece putters. After trying an Epon Fortune and a Betti QB8, I picked up a beat up Evnroll ER2 Black and had it refinished in Raw Matte at Labworx. They did a great job making my putter look brand new again!! I've fallen in love the understated monotone look that is all business!! Check it out!! I've regripped with a Gravity Grip which is similar in terms of shape/profile as a Flat Cat grip. This grip fits my hands really well. Seems to help produce very repeatable putts!! I feel like my putting ability has instantly improved significantly.