nobmontana

sorry i pulled it out of the post no one was interested. decided to give it another try in my 153 and it is working great like they were meant to be with each other!

Final price on the two remaining heads. ridiculous prices!

Srixon made a mistake and now you have to get your shafts extended? That sounds really wrong.

Based on their US website, http://srixon.com/clubs/z-745-irons/ Looks like 38" 5 iron. Japan Srixon is 37.75" 5 iron http://golf.dunlop.co.jp/products/srixon/club/14z/iron/z745_iron.html If you ordered at a certain length and they got it wrong, you should totally return them and have them send you a set with the correct length.

Real nice combo there! How are the i-10 shafts?

Roughly translated: This person looks scary This person is a big drinker This person does not talk when he has a head in his hand This person knows everything about golf club heads. This person is a grinding professional This person's grinding speaks story of a life This person is not very well known We know that this person posseses the highest skills All of "Yururi" is in this his hands.

oh and you might need to put a hold on my Buchi wedge order

Chris you have to get this ad translated! So awesome! best pre sales ad I have seen!

My ears are hurting! :) You just described me of recent days! but I did try at least several shafts before I gave up on some heads. While I understand its not economical or effective to change equipment so frequently, for us club horders, it's defintely a pretty big part of the fun too.

While we are on subject of balls. Two weeks ago, the local pro who has some inside connection to the tour told me that Bridgestone is the only major ball manufacturer where the balls they retail are from exactly the same batch as the ones used by their Tour pros. Other companies have special handpicking process for their Tour Pros and general consumers essentially buy their second tier quality balls. In other words, Matt Kuchar can walk into a d**ks Sporting goods store and buy a dozen of B330S to use in his next tournament and not see a difference with balls given from his tour van. I switched to Bridgestone at that point. No more V1 for me. Still testing between S, RX and RXS and leaning more towards S but want to give some more play time with the other two. One thing I noticed that is significantly different between V1 or V1X is that full wedge shots don't scuff up the Bridgestones at all compared to V1. Used the same ball for four 9 hole rounds and didn't see any scuffs. Then I shot it in the pond yesterday. :( but I also had my best 9 hole ever this week at even par! coincidence?! Yah, probably... :) Another notable is that it seems my approach shots are actually stopping now. Maybe I just wasn't paying much attention before but sure seems that way. These smaller company balls are certainly intriguing especially the Vice and Snell but gonna focus on Bridgestone for now. Oh and Bridestone has not released a 2015 version of their 330 balls. The Pro answered , "Why change what's working?!" LOL The sporting goods store name got masked!

The Regio Formula MB is best bang for the buck shaft at the moment. 80T and 90T combined with Toray 1100G at a price less than half of its competitors. Nippon has a real winner here!

> So, what you are looking at is more of a lighter/stiffer shaft in the end though? : If you look at just the shaft it self, correct. Cutting the tip will make the shaft stiffer, yes but this is only meant to compensate for the added weight of the head on shorter woods. I honestly don't know what a typical CPM is for an SR flex 9 wood .. but based on Mitsubishi's tipping guideline, a 9 wood needs 1" tipping which means that whatever stiffness ( R, S, X ) the shaft starts off for a driver, tipping 1" will provide approximately a "Stiff" range CPM for a 9 wood. If you want SR range stiffness or CPM, you can reduce the amount of tipping to lessen the stiffening effect of tipping. One other thing to remember is that tipping also impacts the kick point of the shaft relative to the overall length. So what might have been a tip active mid to higher launch driver shaft may exhibit more of a mid to low launch characteristic after tipping and put into a fairway wood. I have tipped my driver shafts 1/4" to 1" for the purpose of getting the launch slightly lower and has worked very well. it seems to provide added stability as well. Recently did this with my Regio Formula MB and I ended up tipping in 1" after try and error to get the trajectory I wanted. If you are experimenting, make sure you leave some extra length on the butt end so that once you decide on the final tipping amount, you can still maintain overall club length.

Modart MA01D head is sold!! Price lowered further on remaining items !

Modern driver shafts typically have a 3" parallel section at the tip. 　i.e. driver shaft untipped will have .335" diameter for the first 3 inches at the tip and starts to flare out towards the butt end. Each shaft manufacturer have tipping guidelines for different clubs. Here is the one for your ZT shaft: Click on the installation tab of this page: http://www.mitsubishirayongolf.com/product.php?cmd=fubuki_zt〈=en If you follow the instructions here you will end up with an S flex with your 9 wood. So you should go with less tipping at maybe 0.75" to achieve SR flex.... Hope this helps.

Never thought I would think this ... but I might be tempted to choose a Ping G30LS as a candidate to pair with a 7D distance shaft.

I know it's not part of the deal but I too was hoping for a recommendation at least for head categories Larger vs Smaller, Lighter vs Heavier, Shallow vs Deep, Back CG or Forward CG you know , just general characteristics that might better suit my swing. If they can't, I am likely to go with a head that I know I like. Currently on my list: Docus DCD701 - Because of the Rating gate review and information ( perhaps not legit but want to find out more about it ) NUD Ghibli - Looks really cool, Shallow head, likely to be similar feel to Baldo VT511 very very soft feel EPON AF103 - Used to have one. Love the look and feel down side is that it may not perform as well from a distance perspective. EPON Zero X - Newest Epon and great looking head. PRGR Egg 1 - Used to have one. Head is a bit light Can expect huge distance but ... not the prettiest head.

The one shaft I did this took a long time to sand down, fit in hosel, sand down and try again....... very tedious work.

Unfortunately not. On a side note, the dollar to yen rate is so favorable to the dollar currently, this might become a major shopping trip!

When are you going? I plan to be there sometime between June 22 to July 3 Have not made my appointment yet. If anyone wants to come with me. I am happy to help with translating :)

I worked in the space industry designing communication satellite equipment for 10 years in Japan and know exactly the level of rigorous tolerances they incorporate in their manufacturing and testing process. These equipment need to perform to specs for at least 10 years in space with zero maintenance in a highly variable and harsh environment. On the flip side, all the manufacturing steps are manual work. No automation whatsoever. That gets to be very expensive very quickly especially for stuff hand made in Japan!! The vacuum chamber they use to cure the shaft alone is convincing enough for me to know they use absolute state of the art process that would be too costly for other shaft manufacturers to follow or to invest in. What they are utilizing here is a no gimmick actual space industry technology.

lighter grip! Golf Pride use to make a Dual Durometer Lite which was a 25g grip but they discontinued it. Have not used light grips since then.

Thanks for this info, Chis! > 7D doesn't recommend a head at all Well I'd better get moving in deciding my head !! :) > They don't suggest pulling a shaft from one head and putting into another, they say performance will not be as good. Aha! As I suspected. This is good to know and will be convincing reason for me to stop tinkering with different shafts at least for the head I decide to use.

Not really a problem just more work :) I unfortunately don't have a taper tip shaver ... not sure where to get one either.

ZY11 is definitely a unique head that is straight and long, and I was not patient enough to try more shafts to make it work ror me. but I really don't think this head is for just anyone. I am hoping that thru their fitting process, 7D could also recommend the best type of head that matches your swing? I was assuming that they design your shaft so it would optimze results to match the head you specify... but what if you want to use that same shaft in a different head with totally different mechanical properties in the future? for example, if you had them design a shaft for your swing to be used with a 192g very shallow 460cc head like the Egg One , and along the way you decided you want to use that shaft in an Epon Zero weighing 202g with a deep face at 415cc.... Could that same shaft design still be valid at the same level of optimization from a ball flight perspective? the added 10g alone would at least change the cpm of the club and therefore would impact shaft load characeteristics wouldn't it? Thinking out loud at this point but I am really excited about getting fit and discovering more about my swing!

Not really a good use case but I put OTI shafts in two of my hybrids that I rotate and I really love the way it performs. Stable as a Diamana Thump but slightly higher trajectory and feel is actually much better. I have 95 Stiff but probably better off using 85 S in the hybrids and 95 S in irons. Looking to get a set of OTIs installed in irons. I really wish they came pre-tipped for each club and in taper tip size.