FrankThong

I replaced the 3-iron with a 20° hybrid/ute a year ago, and it has worked out quite nicely. After getting the TRC, consistency was upped another notch and I might have gained a couple of yards too! With my irons selection getting easier to use, I think I have become a lazier golfer. Yesterday, I was hitting the 4-iron like an idiot, slapping it around the course like a two bit ho. Which got me thinking, should I dump my 4-iron for a 23° TRC? While I'm at it, why not get the 26° and lose the 5-iron too? Sure, there'll be some ego-bruising taunts from the boys, but is this the way to go? Does this road lead to performance-enhancing chunky munky irons next *shiver*? Then again, if YE Yang can do it, what me worry? What do you guys think?

I'll never put covers on mine. Not on the copper 302s, not on any others.

T, not surprising, it is really good club. One day, I'm going to be like YE Yang, drop the 4 & 5 irons and carry the 23 and 26 TRC! ;)

You know, after a few rounds, I have gotten used to the heavy head. It doesn't impose any extra attention anymore; in fact, it's now gotten quite easy to grip-it and rip-it.

I've gamed the Honma 708s, Miura 501 and now, Epon 302, but have just about hit all the irons from these houses and then some. My conclusion -- the differences from one CB to another is really quite minimal, especially if you are a decent golfer striking the ball relatively well. With the exception of a little more technology built into the heads like the Epon 502, I have not personally experienced epic differences in CBs available today. What I think matters more is the shaft on the irons. For golfers, like me, who are no longer as athletic as in years past and looking for 'easier-playing' equipment, I'd say -- pay more attention to shaft selection. :)

Eh, good luck on the cup. Like I said, don't get off-the-rack or stuff bottled for marketing purpose. Here's a few vintages to shoot for -- 1981, 1971, 1975/76, 1967/68 or either of the Noh Whiskies. It's going to be tough to find, some of the vintages only produced 200+ bottles. They are so 'big and chewy' that they are not meant to be drank but eaten. ;)

I know that's not a regulat Mac. I've had expensive scotches, the Black Bowmores, Laphraoig 1974, Glenfaclas family casks and scores of highly rated whiskies from the highlands down to islay but great as they are, the Karuizawa holds its own. Better than the Yamasakis, Hibikis, all manner of Nikkas, even the elusive Kawasakis and Hanyus. Talking about it is making me thirsty. Going to have a drink now, ciao! ;)

C, for all your JDM interests and tastes, you really should go get yourself a bottle of good Karuizawa. Not that off the rack generic or whisky fair stuff; look for 1981, 1975/76, 1967/68 or even the Noh Whisky. They will knock your socks and any Macallans off! Btw, did you manage to get the latest Ardbegs committee release Alligator? ;)

Uh, C, two please haha!

C, you got one for me? Any pics, btw? ;)

Hey Dale, did you find one eventually?

Hey Craig, I've not played them yet. In fact, the wrappers are still on the grip! But good to know they perform. How badly do they shave them balls? The Crazy wedge shaft definitely makes a difference. I've fitted both my SDJ and Miura k-grind with the same Crazy wedge shafts and they make a difference. ;)

Whoa, let me get this straight, the satin and NiCr finish plays softer than copper? That's a revelation. I'd have bet all my money that the coppers are softer, only question is how much!

First chocolate, now al dente, you're making me hungry. So did you mean that the satins were 'firmer', 'crispier'? So are the coppers softer than the satins, a lot, a little?

Moving from Miura 501s, I also found the Epon 302 to be easier and more forgiving, but definitely hitting higher. Could be the shafts, probably the shafts. Did you find the coppers to be softer than the satins? I had a similar incident with the SDJ. I was perfectly shaving ball after ball when I was testing it, leaving skin in the grooves and then I shanked one and left some markings at the hosel/heel end. When I cleaned the markings, the hosel/heel marks just wouldn't come off. ;)

I have the FW80 on my Egg Spoon. Playing characteristics quite the same as the LY01, except that I feel the FW80 s a little more 'one piece' than the LY01, which has more 'kick'. It could be that the head of the Egg is a little light? In any case, no complaints there since you can really have a go with it and not worry. But if you're concerned about hitting it high, my experience has been the Egg is hitting higher than my other fairway woods, could be the shaft, could be the head, dunno. Again no complaints since it still goes far and straight. ;)

Congratulations! Never thought about chocolate but now that you mentioned it, I'm gonna go home and taste it later. Hehe. Those brown and gold ferrules look good with the copper; I can see why you'd want to baby them, dressed to the hilt! Enjoy them and let me know what you think about its performance. ;)

Paint fill is white, only the Epon logo is goldish, not metallic. Ferrules are the usual black graphite, which I preferred over the new 'bling' glitzy type. I heard there were gold ones but these are more understated. ;) Loft was adjusted, not much, but was told that the shafts needed a bit of 'running in', need to hit them over avfew more rounds to have the 'kick' working. Not sure how true that is, I'll just play some more and see how it works out. No no, they are to be treated like any other clubs. End of the day, they're made to fulfill one purpose and one purpose only, that is to hit golf balls. The moment you start to baby them, their existence will become meaningless. No head covers, no special concessions, no exceptions.

Oh, I love the shape. A lot! Thing is, the k-grind is really special (you know, the one with the knuckle soles?); it is great from the rough and bunkers. And the SDJ's sharp leading edge is super off tight lies. They pair is like Batman and Robin for me now! One other thing, the Toyos are also quite 'chunky'. Couldn't TSG squeeze a pair for you? ;)

Um, you mean these babies? ;) Copper heads are really hard to capture. No wonder I couldn't find any good pics when I was shopping for them back then. Those of you who have not seen them in the metal, I can assure you, none of the pics here or anywhere do them any justice. Don't lose any sleep over it, be happy with your 301s; I wouldn't trade them in for the 302s. Especially if they were already in copper and have developed a nice patina. ;)

They are super soft, so soft sometimes you wonder if you've actually hit the ball! Not a deal breaker, but I wished it was just a tad 'harder'. The copper scratches easy; 2 rounds, nothing from the bunkers yet, and some of irons are getting quite scratched up on the face and sole, which I don't mind, of course. Still a few kinks to work out. The 4-iron, which was hitting 1.5 club shorter, is now 0.5 club longer. The 7-iron is still short. But the rest is kinda fixed so I'm happy.

the SDJ 48 I like very much, no chance of letting that one go. Excellent wedge all around; gotta thank T for that recommendation. It may not be as 'handsome' as the Toyos but the playability is quite unmatched, imo.

You owned/tried/man-handled more clubs than a mere mortal should in one lifetime! Seriously though, there might be a chance I might not play these. The SDJ Type-bite and Miura k-grind are currently ruling the wedge section in my bag. I could make space for one more wedge if I sacrifice a second ute. Not sure. We'll see how things go. ;)

Um, coming from someone with a 'diarrhea' moniker? Heh. I know what you mean, I get mocked by the infidels I play with about Crazy all the time. You know what they say, a rose by any other name. Truth is, the shafts are very good. You will take them seriously when you've gamed it. :)

Can't wait.