TourSpecGolfer

TSG clubworks can CNC mill new grooves in confirming or non, add milling marks, refinish, copper under layer, Raw face/plated body and special types of paint fill if need be. Some wedges are worth the $$$ and upgrade, I think the 208's do.

No I probobly won't be hitting much of the Bridgestone gear, gotta pick and choose what to spend time on and with these going to the USA soon opinions will be like asses and elbows, everyone's has them...

So the main difference is better shaft options and early release. There could be some small finish differences but that can't be confirmed yet. Here is the Japan Schedule: Drivers - Released Fairway & UT - Released this Monday Irons - Next Month w/ MB in December Special + Versions FW & UT in December The US Schedule: Everything in February at same time

They are pretty new, so expect them to be popular on TSG a year or two before the masses catch wind :)

You can open it up to 4.5*

Thank You :)!

Bridgestone J15MB Iron - New for 2015 Bridgestone Golf has been unified under one global name combining TourStage + Bridgestone to create Bridgestone Global! Entirely new design and technology has been implemented across a new full line up. Introducing the Limited Edition Bridgestone J15MB Iron. Only 2000 sets are produced world wide! Forged of S25C with a very compact appearance the J15MB features a compact size, razor thin top line and narrow sole with a nice curve to it. TSG is able to offer custom finishes, specs, and shafts.

I ordered it to show off what's possible with the Yoro MP-15 Irons not because I need it as I've got clubs up the ying yang and really don't need anymore so it's to shoot photos of and to talk about really. But to answer your question. W sole is the combo of a couple of grinds, the trailing and leading edge grind and similar to wedges they function the same way, leading edge grind is good for softer conditions or people who find they dig or come in steep and need that killed leading edge, trailing edge in irons is a bit different than in wedges it creates less interaction with the turf but also allows for a fraction more workability. None of it really necessary but I figured why not If I'm ordering to show what can be done minus well max these puppies out. The good thing about Yoro vs say Buchi is that Yoro will not be overly drastic in the mods that it will hurt the original and intended design, so with Yoro you can go all out and feel safe it won't have as much as a negative effect.

There have been many versions of this iron in the past, it's great yours are brand new, your going to have to create a price, brand new they were about 1k back in the day. It's been a long time so it's your call on the price. You must list a price or this listing will be taken down.

Yes due to the cavity it doesn't feel as pure as other Miura blades but with the copper underlayer option it's a different kinda awesome.

ONOFFs are not at all like the 503's. They feel much better and different, there is also no undercut and they are smaller with less offset, just more pure all around. think semi mid sized. I'd say closer to the 302 than 503. CB2007 or any Miura iron doesn't pack the same forgiveness for size. Yamaha and Honma are also good forgings with excellent feedback at impact.

Such a good club, had only limited range time but it's very long, straight with low spin, mis hits are decent too. I'm a big fan of all the RS wood, not so much the irons though.

Idea #1 - Beautiful setup, great feel/feedback, fairly forgiving for it's compactness. #3 & #4 Yamaha Tour Model PB #5-PW Yamaha Tour Model CB Idea #2 - a bit larger setup than the Yamaha, softer feel, very forgiving for it's size ONOFF Kuro Forged 3-PW The in between is the CB358. Nob's does have a point also the with Yoro Craft's, this is what I have on order: - MP-15 - Double Nickel Satin Finish - W Sole Grind - Grind sharper toe and straight top line +0.5mm Face Progression (less offset) - Dark blue (Mizuno blue) paintfill for logos - D3 Swing Weight - Standard Length/Lie - Mizuno Blue Grip - Modus3 Tour 125 Stiff

ONOFF Kuro would be a nice transition considering your improvement, good job improving the scores by the way.

pretty close, I'd go 5005 as the difference is minimal and the setup is better but do go CB1007 over CB57 which is a basic version of the same head, you can take it a step further and try the Y Grind version with copper underlayer

Thx Added! It goes up to SF-9.

That's not because it's a dedicated FW shaft, it's because of the shaft itself and how it interacts with your swing.

"4. This thread is for only fairway wood dedicated shafts, Yes there are driver shafts when cut down perform with very good results but this opens a can of worms because everyone can say this or that worked for them but we want to be as laser as possible as there are already so many choices we need not confuse things further." This is a FW wood specific thread, if we dump driver shafts in here, we could add 40+ more shafts to the confusion.

Thank You! Added to the list :)

it's real gold plated 18K. and it is soft and it is expensive. +350 for the finish.

Lots of questions lately about what the top fairway wood shafts are so I think a specific thread is in order to help those looking. Everyone is different some inquiries are about lighter softer, lighter stiffer, heavier softer, and heavy telephone polls so remember to each is own and hopefully we find this thread supportive in your quest for the perfect long shot. A few things first: 1. Not everyone should be playing a 3 wood. We all want to but the truth is not many of us can hit one consistently and that's usually due to the lack of ability to make clean contact repeatedly so a general rule of thumb is if you regularly lose strokes because your 3 wood you may want to try starting with a 5 wood or perhaps a 5 wood at 3 wood length, no shame at all it's smart. 2. We all use our 3 woods differently, some longer hitters use it mostly off the tee on tight holes while people who don't hit as long need all the distance they can get off the fairway. Then there are those in the middle who do both so consider what YOU use it for and not others online. 3. General rule of thumb has been heavier is better for fairway wood shafts, this is dated and it really depends on the individual's swing and what goals they wish to accomplish. 4. This thread is for only fairway wood dedicated shafts, Yes there are driver shafts when cut down perform with very good results but this opens a can of worms because everyone can say this or that worked for them but we want to be as laser as possible as there are already so many choices we need not confuse things further. 5. What works for one person may not work for you, the internet especially golf forums is full of opinions and while some are valuable you must consider that we are all different and in the end your the one paying and playing it. Top JDM options in no particular order: Crazy FW80 - 66-76g range Crazy Longest Yard 01 FW Evo - 53-59g range Crazy FW-50 Sigma - 70-80g range Crazy Royal Decoration FW - 52g range TRPX Messenger FW - 66 - 68g range TRPX X-Line Concept 75 (W) - 75 - 77g range Waccine Compo FW GR-88 - 80 -110g range Waccine Compo FW GR-77 - 70 - 80g range Waccine Compo FW GR-55 - 45 - 65g range Fujikura Speeder FW - 40/50/60/70/80 Fujikura Rombax FW - 45/55/65/75/85 Basileus Z FW - 55/65/75 Basileus Fiamma FW - 50/60/70 Basileus Spada V2 - 55/65/75 Basileus Leggero FW - 55/65 Quadra Fire Express FW - 55/65/75 Quadra Fire Express Type D FW - 55/65/75 UST Mamiya ATTAS FW - 55/65/75/85 MUSO XDB FW 65/75 Diamana Thump Japan FW - 55/65/75/85 Graphite Design SF FW - 50/60/70/80/90 Q: When to go for a lighter shaft versus heavy? A: Generally heavier is for faster more aggressive swing types, it helps smooth things out in tempo and transition meaning producing more stable and straighter shots as well as a lower trajectory. Lighter shafts are often for smoother swingers who often desire more distance, feel, and a higher trajectory. Q: What is the difference between a FW shaft vs a Driver shaft? A: Not much other than raw length and kick point, often manufactures that produce a driver shaft can easily change a few key specs and create a FW version. The reason why I suggest a dedicated FW shaft is because many push the kick point lower while shortening the shaft which helps in getting the ball up. Q: How do I know which one of the models above is for me? A: This is not an easy question, I suggest by logically considering what you want/need then cross referencing it with the specs and finally community opinions. One of the problems is shaft companies do not publish all the info but based on weight/material/flex/series/brand you can get a general idea of what to try. Q: How do I know what I want? A: General thoughts... - If you are all over the place hitting it left, right, and you can feel the shaft kick lively it's a sign you are using a shaft that is too weak or require a different shaft to help you square the face up at impact more consistently. - If the shaft feels overly stiff, flies low, and gives you little carry with more roll you can probably use something a little softer and lighter - you can tell if you need a new fairway wood shaft if your ball balloons starting off low then climbs really quickly, trajectory is either too low or too high, the club is known to feel good but it just feels like garbage to you, you need to swing extra hard or extra soft to create a decent result/feel. - shafts are like blue jeans: If you want to look your best, try on as many pairs as it takes to find the perfect fit " - so what's that supposed to mean? like any shaft or club, after a few buys and tries you begin to learn what works and what doesn't you need to either write it down or remember it because then it's all about trying different variations of the similar in materials, and slightly different specs of a similar flavor. Don't be the guy who jumps from light to heavy, stiff to soft, blade to GI, trying everything and burning cash then ending up not learning what works. Give your clubs/shafts a chance, you spent all that money don't buy, try, then sell so quickly. Many buy a new club and after a couple rounds count it out and move to the next, not the way to do it and there are probably a dozen or so reading this that will think I'm talking specifically about them, I'm not I mean this in general to everyone.

opps! yes 37.75"

Hi Mark, Don't change, the FW80 is outstanding imo but this Raytis is totally on the opposite side of the spectrum as it's lighter, much softer, for sure higher launching. What I do for the FW80 is order it in SR instead of my usual S, still stable yet a little longer and more feel, I also like the La Bomba graphics. If you were to experiment with lighter FW shafts start with the Muso or if your a bit of a brand snob go TRPX Messenger FW, it is somewhat lighter. Fujikura Speeder FW is also good, lots of weight options, easy to like specs, just easy to like and all around good but imo excels in no one area. I fancy a Modart 16* going softer in the FW80 to R flex to see if I could control it and get even more feel and kick out of the shaft.

Considering copper is trendy right now it's biggest flaw imo is how it wears, Gold's Factory has nailed it with this finish, it's not copper at all as copper will rust, this is 18K plated "pink gold" finish. This one doesn't rust as it's a true plating. To give some reference here is the 18K normal gold finish:

That easy launch, pin point accuracy, and penetrating ball flight + more distance we can also give credit to the Modus Tour 125's.