TourSpecGolfer

Very close is what? how many mm? As I mentioned you can't go zero or even what I consider "very close to zero" unless the molds are made to do this. My guess is what you thought was zero was not zero in the long/mid irons.

So the owner of Grandista came up with this specific layout of milling & neck length and used it for his own GF putter, the vertical PZ mill was actually found to have a better roll on camera than horizontal not by much though but a smoother roll off the face with a touch less skip. The short neck is yes more toe hang or flow which we do have more requests for than face balanced. Keep in mind VM tech helps with face balance as well but not enough. So right now we have only finished 5pcs of SEVEN X GF Putters. I have released 4 and they sell well, I will tell you the next one is not as fancy as the last 2 but still nice. We will make more in the future this is not a limited series just something to do for people who want special putters. Since it's all based on the customers eye there is no better or worse but I get what your saying you don't want to buy one and the next one is even better to you but such is life and that would be something uncontrollable from our end as we don't know who will like what if at all.

Don't do zero offset, first because it requires specific molds created to get a true 0 offset in the long and mid irons (short is no problem). Second all brands have offset for a reason it makes clubs easier to hit. I get this request somewhat often and it's always the claim "my eye can't stand offset". trust me it's there for a reason and by FP #'s the difference between 5.0 vs 5.5 vs 6.0 FP is so small visually but has a big impact performance if you think zero is the solution your kidding yourself. Even if your on the PGA tour in the top 5 you will notice FP helps in long/mid irons. But if you must you must so Mizuno Yoro and Miura can be pushed to crank the heads enough to get you close. The original molds of long/mid irons have more offset so cranking them to none before grinding causes a strange look, short irons can be made with zero offset and some PW's with onset if you like.

Well of course the more is merrier. Yup that post is on page 2. Have you seen the cast irons?

If you were to isolate as many variables as possible with the use of a swing robot indoors all drivers would be 5yds possibly 10 at most longer/shorter than each other. but if you pair the proper attributes to the player with head and shafts you can find up to 30yds difference.

Details in the blog, photos right here:

never trust the hot list. but yes lots of XXIO. the answer depends on where and who you play with. the masses i often see usdm in the bags but for the hardcore and better players I usually see JDM botique brands.

Thats a sad list you have there. None of the above. but in short the answer is simple: the one that fits you and has the right shaft combo for your swing. your question is as broad as asking "what loft is the best?"

This will depend on the skills of your clubmaker.

You dont bring a head, just tell them the details on the one you have as it will take approx 4-5 weeks for them to build your shaft and send it to you so you can build yourself. let me know when and I can arrange an english speaker. Its not something you swing by and check out they are by appointment only and as the blog post mentions that 1hr fitting comes at a pretty penny. Although the Umeda lab is beautiful I still suggest the Shiba-Koen lab. We request a particular designer there as well and add line item requests.

My favorite part is when the black box shows up at the door:

Full skinny in the blog (click here) photos right here:

.335 Japan almost never produces drivers at .350.

Something to consider when you wonder why the Japanese offer the lofts they do, most players don't need a 60* its harder to hit than the 58* and if you can't open a 58* then you have no business playing a 60* anyway. This info is from Titleist: On Tour: - Players use of 54* vs 56* is equal - 58* use is growing vs 60* - There are more 50* in play than 52* - 40% of Titleist players use a 46* Wedge In Shops: - 56* is the best selling loft of all - 60* sales far outpace 58* - 52* sales are twice that of 50* - 46* is only 1% of wedge sales

In the modus range imo the 125's are closest to the C-Tapers and like the C-Tapers I often advise to soft step or go one flex softer. Many of my customers who play X flex I have suggested hard step stiff and they have been really happy.

The man is casual - I just asked Ako-san what the deal was on these he says "easier to hit fairway wood for pro player" - that's his factors..lol Ako-san is a wild genius of club design who is unlike anyone I've ever met in the industry where other brand partners of ours like to have traditional Japan style (black suit) business meetings in a nice office and a secretary keeping the black coffee coming and business cards neatly arranged on the table. Ako-san and I drive around talk story unable to figure out where to eat and end up at Mcdonalds wearing tee shirts and slippers.

Do me a favor d**ky, don't just post a link with with a question mark. We don't consider that content here. ( I inserted the photo ) If your wondering my take on them, Fujikura can do so much better than this and my guess is they would be too embarrassed to launch this in Japan. Similar with the Tour AD driver & irons which like these are not up to snuff and look cheaply made or poorly designed.

Yup this is just an older steel shaft found in some Japanese Callaway irons, It's been a decade since I hit them but yes softer, uniflex as you mentioned nothing more on this I know.

S200s are a Japan shaft they are the most common stock shaft in Japan along side the NS950's. you can get them almost free as pulls. I think your doing it right, just keep trying and learning what you play best with.

The 535 is a great head too!

With SM490A + Verticle PZ Miling this putter was already borderline gushy soft so by adding the slits it lightened the sound up which we all felt was better at impact and to the ear.

she lasted less than an hour in the proshop.

not that I know of.

In regards to copper each dip and process at the factory is different so sometimes they use copper other times they dont it just depends but when we request it they always do. As for the slit, the scotty you tried was sus303 which is a more clicky feel by nature, SM490A is more dense and less clicky so when you combine that with deep milling its really nice then add the slit that doesnt cut all the way through making it unique and still soft yet not clicky at all.