TourGolfJeff

GodFather, The shafts you mention are not on the Graphite Design website - at least I couldn't find them. That said, assuming the specs of the two shafts are similar, you will not see any notceable ball flight/feel differences from shaft torque differences of less than 1 degree of torque.

Godtaher, Torque is only one specification of a shaft. The difference in the 2.2 and 3.0 is not all that great. Plus, without knowing the cpm and flex characteristics of the two shafts, it is hard to say how the 3.0 will play.

If you're looking for cheap steel wood shafts, Tour Golf Products (800-258-0924) has TT Lite A/L steel wood shafts for $1.00 each in case quantities of 150 pieces. That's $150 for 150 shafts...

I am trying to reach Jeff Forbes, who runs (or who did run) www.swingweight.com. I have no contact information for him, other than what's on the website and that is all defunct - as is the address for mailing listed on the site. If anyone knows how to contact Jeff, I sure would appreciate it. Thanks in advance...

Mike, Every 1/2" that he removes will reduce the swingweight 3 points and the total weight the amount the dowel weighs (incosequential.)

Marris, Two products come to mind...Blue Away or Semichrome Polish found at auto supply stores or Barkeepper's Friend sold at grocery stores in the cleanser section.

Chris, I am with Tour Golf Products, Inc., in Columbus OH as their Director of Marketing. I alos own a driving range/mini golf facility. I formerly was with Mitchell Golf as well as Dynacraft Golf. I do not do any bending myself as I do not have a machine. I would recommend any PCS clubmaker with a Mitchell Plus machine to do the bending. I have not seen the TP's being bent, but I think (although not sure) their hosels allow bending.

Gentlemen, A forged ti wood head or a stainless steel wood head can indeed be bent open or closed or flat or upright, provided te hosel length allows bending. The head does not have to be heated, but a "good" machine such as Mitchell's Plus is needed. Short hosel bending bars are generally needed as well. Tour vans do use molds particular to their clubs, but since they only bend their own models, this is practical for them.

Mark, The parallel shafts have 1.875" steps, the tapered are 1.75" steps. This is normal. A number of forged heads do indeed have parallel hosels. Taper is more common, but the fact they are .370" should be no cause for concern. Regarding the MT irons, install the shafts as you normnally would. The hosel length issue will not be enough to caus a noticeable playability difference.

Hue, Some of the articles are now up at www.tourgolfproducts.com. They lack pictures at present, but these will be added soon. The series there includes assembly, fitting and repair articles that will be updated regularly.

Hue, A good clubmaker/fitter will have a player hit balls using a number of different length clubs to determine which ones he hits most consistently. The length that best suits will provide consistent impacts, hopefully in the center of the face. As length changes, the fitter will make lie adjsutments to match. This "dynamic" fitting is the only way to accurately determine club length. Charts are a starting point, but there is no substitute for hit testing to determine proper length & lie.

Hue, Also look at the wedge itself. If it has a flat leading edge or has little bounce, that can contribute to it digging into the ground...

Hue, Most players benefit from more loft rather than less. If it's between the 9.5 and 10.5, go with the 10.5. Even more may be better as others have stated.

xxio, The one with the longer BBGM will play softer. This is becauase the shaft tip is a greater distance from the ground line. The difference is 3/4" will be less than 1/2 flex. To make this shaft play @ the same as the other, tip and additional 3/4" from it and the two will play similarly. I am assuming the head weights and head CG's are approximately the same when making this statement.

xxio, In all reality, the balance points of the DG's and Rifles is not different enough to have any noticeable effect on swingweight, provided all othe factors are the same. Regards, Jeff

xxio, The butt end of the shaft is the stiffest part of the shaft due to its larger diameter, so the longer shaft willvbe stiffer. What happens though, is that longer clubs have higher swingweight, counteracting this stiffer shaft. Thus, if you add the 1/2" and naturally let the swingweight increase 3 points, the net effect is just about a zero chnage.

Hue, the 1/2" is actually a 3 swingweight change. The effect of shortening the shafts along with this change will be virtually undetectable related to overall shaft stiffness.

Hue, Check out www.swingweight.com as well as www.equip2golf.com Both should be helpful. Look for some stuff at www.tourgolfproducts.com in the next few weeks as well.

Hue, This is something a clubmaker cannot do. www.customclubcoatings.com does a great job. Check out their site for pricing. The job can also be done by Titliest. Your pro could quote you a price on that.

Cerveyjack, You can do a satin finish with a Scotchbrite wheel or Scothbrite pads. The wheel on a bench grinder will be much quicker. If you have a bench grinder, you can doa high polish finish easily as well with a meatl polishing wheel. As the Pings are stainless, either finish is easy to do.

MW, Many players make all of the wedges the same length. There really is no "downfall" so to speak, but whichever one has the heaviest head, will have the heaviest swingweight. This may or may not be a bad thing. The best way to see if you like the feel and playability is to try it and see. Hopefully the experiment works for you!

RSU, Lead tape is always a good choice since it's easy to add/remove. If the shafts are graphite, they will need tip pins, not epoxy and powder. Plus, they will have to be removed for the pins to be installed. You didn't mention if theshafts were steel or graphite.

Yogi, Mitchell often has used equipment. Call 800-937-1314 and ask for Mike. Tell him I sent you!

xxio, You will change the balance point toward the toe and a bit upwards. Before using the powder, why not wrap the same weight of tape on the shaft and roll a few putts? If you like the feel, add the powder in the shaft. If not, it was a simple way to see if you like the added weight. Jeff Jackson Tour Golf Products www.tourgolfproducts.com

Links, Loft and lie should be checked at least every season, especially if you playa a lot or the clubs are forged. Assuming all of the irons have the same shafts, their swingweights should be the same in order to maintain consistent feel. Wedges will typically be heaver - especially the SW - as these clubs are designed to go through higher grass, sand, etc. Jeff Jackson Tour Golf Products www.tourgolfproducts.com