Montrove Posted June 19, 2007 Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 (edited) Hey guys, I have been lurking around her for awile, and finally broke down and bought some excellant clubs from the great guys at Fourteen. The quality of Japanese clubs is so impressive and consistent. I have been looking at these irons, and I would like the forum's opinions on them. The YURURI RAW Flat Back The Gold's Factory Flat Back Mizuno MP-33 Chrome MP-33 Gloss Black Thanks for looking, and if you have any additional pictures, I would heartily appreciate them. Edited June 19, 2007 by Montrove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoon Posted June 19, 2007 Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 Hey guys, I have been lurking around her for awile, and finally broke down and bought some excellant clubs from the great guys at Fourteen. The quality of Japanese clubs is so impressive and consistent. I have been looking at these irons, and I would like the forum's opinions on them.The Gold's Factory Flat Back the gold's blades are works of art. .........if only i were capable enough to play with these. If epon came out with blades those would seriously rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
master Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 the gold's blades are works of art. .........if only i were capable enough to play with these. If epon came out with blades those would seriously rock! I'm alternating between Gold's Factory blade & X blade. Both are superb irons with fantastic feel. Of the two, Golds is quite forgiving for a blade iron with little distance & directional lost but you can instantly feel that you are not hitting the sweet spot. well worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+TourSpecGolfer Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 Don't forget the Fourteens also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acrazygolfer Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 ... and GD original MBs - sweet, soft and extremely forgiving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 (edited) yururi flat black vs golds factory vs fourteen (i) which would be your pick? and why? (ii) re: the fourteen, i never liked the loft separation between the mid irons...3 degree vs 4 degrees standard, too close i think... any idea of the loft progression of the yururi irons Edited June 21, 2007 by ajaykkr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+TourSpecGolfer Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 yururi flat black vs golds factory vs fourteen (i) which would be your pick? and why? (ii) re: the fourteen, i never liked the loft separation between the mid irons...3 degree vs 4 degrees standard, too close i think... any idea of the loft progression of the yururi irons I can have the loft set as you wish for Golds Irons, these are hand crafted and only 5 sets per month are produced by Sasaya himself. I will get specs on the Yururi's for you soon. I would play the Yururi because they are super soft, easier to hit than the MP67's and the leading edge/sole grind seems to work really well with my steep blow, Combined with the right shafts these irons are heaven if you dont mind a finish that will wear. I dont sample many blades but have heard many great things about Gold's Factory blades, just recently sold a black teflon set to a customer who simply loves them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 I can have the loft set as you wish for Golds Irons, these are hand crafted and only 5 sets per month are produced by Sasaya himself. I will get specs on the Yururi's for you soon.I would play the Yururi because they are super soft, easier to hit than the MP67's and the leading edge/sole grind seems to work really well with my steep blow, Combined with the right shafts these irons are heaven if you dont mind a finish that will wear. I dont sample many blades but have heard many great things about Gold's Factory blades, just recently sold a black teflon set to a customer who simply loves them. thanks.. i have been leaning towards the yururi since it was mentioned in one of the posts that they remind of MP 33s (may fav. blade iron till date).... will wait on the specs..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
master Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 I can have the loft set as you wish for Golds Irons, these are hand crafted and only 5 sets per month are produced by Sasaya himself. I will get specs on the Yururi's for you soon.I would play the Yururi because they are super soft, easier to hit than the MP67's and the leading edge/sole grind seems to work really well with my steep blow, Combined with the right shafts these irons are heaven if you dont mind a finish that will wear. I dont sample many blades but have heard many great things about Gold's Factory blades, just recently sold a black teflon set to a customer who simply loves them. Gold's blade is super soft & very easy to play as blade. I have it with NS Pro 1150 R flex & the ball flight is penerating but holds the green brilliantly. However, the leading edge/sole grind of the Gold's does not work well with steep blow or soft fairway, I just notice it when I played in a very wet course & the Gold's just picked up too much divot for my liking. Other than that , it's a wonderful set of irons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Gold's blade is super soft & very easy to play as blade. I have it with NS Pro 1150 R flex & the ball flight is penerating but holds the green brilliantly. However, the leading edge/sole grind of the Gold's does not work well with steep blow or soft fairway, I just notice it when I played in a very wet course & the Gold's just picked up too much divot for my liking. Other than that , it's a wonderful set of irons. why is picking up too much divot a problem? also why is the leading edge/sole grind important (unless of course you are looking for forgiveness for tendency to hit fat shots).... i could never understand that and am seeking your opinion so that I can learn...but my theory is this.... if the iron hits the ball first and then the ground slightly ahead of where the ball is, the ball is already gone... so it should not matter whether it digs through and takes a big divot...... only reason one would care is that when one is not accurate and tends to hit slightly behind the ball, possibly hitting the earth and in that case, digging in will result in loss of greater distance..... if my assumption is accurate, then I rather have a thin sole./leading edge grind that cuts through the turf as i will know excatly how badly i have hit the shot.... if my thinking is wrong, let me know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+TourSpecGolfer Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 If you take a look at the Yururi's they go flat on the sole before the leading edge, this imo helps the steeper swinger, not sure on that but i do really well with clubs that have those like the Type J, 900MD, and few others. You are right though, it wouldn't matter at all if you were to hit the ball clean each and every shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 If you take a look at the Yururi's they go flat on the sole before the leading edge, this imo helps the steeper swinger, not sure on that but i do really well with clubs that have those like the Type J, 900MD, and few others.You are right though, it wouldn't matter at all if you were to hit the ball clean each and every shot. the yururis do have a great shape and I did notice the flatness on the sole...i am a steep swinger like you...particularly with my irons as i like to let the ball fly high and land soft..so it will be interesting to see how the sole works when i get them.....waiting for the specs... BTW, how is the finish holding up on those irons.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
master Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 why is picking up too much divot a problem? also why is the leading edge/sole grind important (unless of course you are looking for forgiveness for tendency to hit fat shots).... i could never understand that and am seeking your opinion so that I can learn...but my theory is this....if the iron hits the ball first and then the ground slightly ahead of where the ball is, the ball is already gone... so it should not matter whether it digs through and takes a big divot...... only reason one would care is that when one is not accurate and tends to hit slightly behind the ball, possibly hitting the earth and in that case, digging in will result in loss of greater distance..... if my assumption is accurate, then I rather have a thin sole./leading edge grind that cuts through the turf as i will know excatly how badly i have hit the shot.... if my thinking is wrong, let me know.... You are absolutely right if you hit the ball cleanly every time.....but the fact is we don't hit it consistenly enough. In a wet & plush fairway, with the Gold's, I tend to dig a little deeper than under normal condition, may be it's the soft ground, but several Mms lower could make a big difference for iron shots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montrove Posted June 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Thanks for the replies guys so far. Forgiveness does not matter to me. I play off of a plus handicap, so ball striking is not an issue, and I have a descending ball-first srike at the ball. How would you guys describe these in terms of workabilty? I dont need a club that flies to the moon, dead straight every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) Thanks for the replies guys so far. Forgiveness does not matter to me. I play off of a plus handicap, so ball striking is not an issue, and I have a descending ball-first srike at the ball. How would you guys describe these in terms of workabilty? I dont need a club that flies to the moon, dead straight every time. i have not played the yururis or the gold till now, so cant help you there... i have been eyeing the yururis to add to my stable of mr 23, mp 33, x blade 2, miuras and fourteen... maybe a couple of weeks later, i could tell you more about the yururis.... chris can tell you about the yururis.... Edited June 22, 2007 by ajaykkr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+TourSpecGolfer Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 The finish of the black raw grain on the Yururi blades hold up waaay better than say Mizuno flat black blades. Its quite durable if you take care of them. Compared to the MP33 they are about the same heel to toe or a hair longer. Im not the best player to tell you about workability because thats not my game but i will say they fly mid/low with most steel shafts and thats why i went graphite. I know what you guys are thinking, what kinda wimp plays graphite in blades... I have also loved these blades with 1050 in R flex, for some reason my normal 1150 Stiff flex didn't give me the height i desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+TourSpecGolfer Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yururi Specs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Wow! the lofts are strong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffer19 Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Wow! the lofts are strong! You would be hard pressed to find anything weaker nowadays. It is perhaps just 1 degree stronger than today's norm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 (edited) You would be hard pressed to find anything weaker nowadays. It is perhaps just 1 degree stronger than today's norm. Actually its 1 degree for the 3-5 and the PW. Its 2* stronger than most blades for the 6-9 irons. also, blades tend to be weaker than cavities... Edited June 24, 2007 by ajaykkr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tour-md Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 Hey guys, I have been lurking around her for awile, and finally broke down and bought some excellant clubs from the great guys at Fourteen. The quality of Japanese clubs is so impressive and consistent. I have been looking at these irons, and I would like the forum's opinions on them.The YURURI RAW Flat Back The Gold's Factory Flat Back Mizuno MP-33 Chrome MP-33 Gloss Black Thanks for looking, and if you have any additional pictures, I would heartily appreciate them. I'd buy the gloss black Mizunos in a second! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blader-X Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 I'm still really loving my TourStage X-blade 2's. If I had the expenses I would probably buy the new Limited Edition models and have them reshafted and flattened a couple degrees, but that will have to wait. In the meantime the X-blade 2's are simply marvellous and working just fine. The only drawback to TourStage is that they don't offer very much in the way of customization. They are a big enough company that they should really consider it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 The x blade 2 are very good irons.. played with them all last season.. still have them... also now that I have the Mr 23 blades.... i noticed that the topline of the xblade 2 appears thinner than the mr 23's topline... that said, i am a blade ho''' so, i keep on trying new blades (and keeping the old ones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goshinboku Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 Actually its 1 degree for the 3-5 and the PW. Its 2* stronger than most blades for the 6-9 irons.also, blades tend to be weaker than cavities... the mr-23 us blades you have are exactly 1* stronger throught the set vs the yururi, the us blades have a 27* 5iron and 47* PW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaykkr Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 the mr-23 us blades you have are exactly 1* stronger throught the set vs the yururi, the us blades have a 27* 5iron and 47* PW my reference for blades is the mp 33 which generally has weaker lofts... you are right about the mr 23s and so am I..... compare the lofts of the mr 23 with the 6-9 iron.. strong lofts is not bad... in fact the shorter irons give you longer distances... that usually is good as one needs to rely less on the longer irons... but i like the 4* degree seperation between the 4- PW... gives me better distance seperation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.