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comment_21254
Besides lead tape, how would you add weight to the bottom of a two-ball putter :?:

I have seen where people remove the bottom inserts and fill them wiht epoxy.

I haven't seen it done but you could drill through that metal at the back, right about where the red cirlce logo is, and put a tungstien slug in there. That would also increase the MOI.

  • 2 weeks later...
comment_23558

Its actually pretty easy, people in japan are doing it at home now adding cool pictures into the bottom area.

I cant read the Japanese text very well but what it shows they are doing is:

1. sanding the inside of the gaps.

2. cutting out pictures to fit the gaps ( drawings, magazine ads, photos, )

3. using putty and making a border around each of the two gaps.

4. filling the two gaps with a clear liquid ????

5. removing the border and sanding the excess dry liquid flat.

They say this method adds even weight of 10 - 18 grams to the putter head and it looks insane cool.

If you do a bad job this is what it should look like:

normal_P1010056.jpg

If you do it perfect it should look like:

paint_off.jpg

comment_23879
Anyone know what the "clear liquid" of choice is??  Is it just shafting epoxy??  Might have to pick up another 2Ball and give it a whirl.

Bill

just go to Home Depot and ask for a clean drying epoxy... they whould be able to help you... I don't think shaft epoxy is known for its optical clarity.

  • 3 weeks later...
comment_27699

Here's what I did to get my 2ball up to my desired swingweight of D4. Posted this already in the Domestic folder but here it is again:

First added leadtape into the cavities and played a few rounds until I figured out what feels perfect to me. Than I went to my clubmaker and weighted it to know where I'm at. Took the leadtape out and filled up the cavities with epoxy (5 min) and did a quick grind job just to figure out how many swingweight points the epoxy alone will account for. Weighted the club again and than took out the epoxy again.

Cleaned the putter and put little stripes of leadtape in to account for the missing weight and make sure the end result will be D4. Than I re-did the epoxy job with 24 hour epoxy (easier to work with and smoother looking) cavity by cavity. After about 2 days I was ready to sand it down (by hand) and give it it's final shape. Last but not least I used some clear silicone shoe polish to seal the epoxy and give it it's rich charcoal colour.

Took a bid time to do but it simply looks awesome.

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