Posted December 19, 200816 yr comment_153492 Chris i know you do this all the time but whats the easiest way to satinize and de bling my aftours? they are shinier than i would like, these would look kick azz w a satin finish. thanks in advance
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153494 Chris i know you do this all the time but whats the easiest way to satinize and de bling my aftours? they are shinier than i would like, these would look kick azz w a satin finish. thanks in advance Same here. I talked to Joe Kwok about it and he recommended not to do it. Says people have a tendency to go too far and get down to the steel, allowing rust. Be curious to see what Chris says, on sunny days these irons are blinding.
December 19, 200816 yr Author comment_153495 Same here. I talked to Joe Kwok about it and he recommended not to do it. Says people have a tendency to go too far and get down to the steel, allowing rust. Be curious to see what Chris says, on sunny days these irons are blinding. im thinking the lightest least abrasive grit of sandpaper could do the trick, i may experiment on my old clubs:) unfortunately i do not have sanding tools to do the job
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153500 I certainly can't imagine that as a do it yourself project. The GolfWorks used to do that--still might--as does The Iron Factory. Since neither are sponsors here, it would probably be nice for somebody to mention somebody who is, if an onboard firm does this work.
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153502 It's Easy, this is what I do: 1. Tape up areas I don't want brushed. 2. Use my buffing wheel to put the initial brush marks over most areas. 3. Use ultra fine grit sandpaper to hit areas I cant hit will the wheel. 4. Use Steel wool to smooth things out so they look even. 5. Go over it with brasso to further get things looking smoother. Cheap clubs usually show raw metal far sooner than quality JDM brands do.
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153508 chris: do you have any before and after pics of some models you have done this to? will this work on a chromed forged club as well?
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153509 chris:do you have any before and after pics of some models you have done this to? will this work on a chromed forged club as well? These used to be chrome:
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153510 So... let me get this right. There is nothing applied to the club? It's all about roughing up (gently/barely) and smoothing the surface?
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153511 So... let me get this right. There is nothing applied to the club? It's all about roughing up (gently/barely) and smoothing the surface? Its pretty much scratching the surface of chrome in a uniform direction.
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153512 These used to be chrome: Chris I have to tell you that is some impressive work. I never would have guessed those at one time where chromed.
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153513 I honestly think its something anyone at home can do with care and the right tools for the job.
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153514 is there a special buffing wheel you need? i've heard people do something similar with a variety of scotchbrite pads but it is very time consuming. how long would you say using a wheel each club takes, and can you do this with the club assembled? thanks for the help
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153516 is there a special buffing wheel you need? i've heard people do something similar with a variety of scotchbrite pads but it is very time consuming. how long would you say using a wheel each club takes, and can you do this with the club assembled? thanks for the help I had a bunch of different wheels and just looked for a softer wheel that was slightly more abrasive than a scotch bright pad. With the Wheel each club took about 5-10 minutes from start to finish. I have done it head only and assembled, when assembled you should tape where the ferrule meats the metal so you don't have to return the ferrule.
December 19, 200816 yr Author comment_153519 thanks chris looks pretty straightforward enough. is the sandpaper on the wheel the same as what you would use when using by hand on areas cant be reached by wheel? would doing it completely by hand be feasible with only downside being time?
December 19, 200816 yr comment_153521 so basically just a semi soft wheel, but what compound did you use?
December 20, 200816 yr comment_153524 Here are some other examples of Chris' great work... before and after:
December 21, 200816 yr comment_153533 My first attempt. Lighting sucks, it actually turned out better than I thought. I'm ready to do the rest of the set now. Santinized on the left...
December 21, 200816 yr Author comment_153534 My first attempt. Lighting sucks, it actually turned out better than I thought. I'm ready to do the rest of the set now.Santinized on the left... nice job how did you do it?
December 21, 200816 yr comment_153536 Pretty much just followed Chris's directions. Dremel 400 grit sanding block Steel wool Brasso
December 21, 200816 yr comment_153537 Looks great J, I love the no paintfill e you should leave it that way!
December 21, 200816 yr comment_153538 I wondered if anyone would notice! About half of it had come out so I took the rest out. I was going to refill it but I kind of like it. I didn't have that problem with any of the other paint filled stampings.
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