supo Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 my buds BIG hes got a lightning transition but decles something horrible. oh brother id like to see him hit thru the ball it would pierce a worm hole in th space time continuum! but he doesnt im thinking DG s400 @ 38.5 inch anyone have anthing else to suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+TourSpecGolfer Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 What's the problemo he's having? Where on the face is he missing it or what is his consistent negative result? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supo Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 EVERYWHERE hes not a beginner but not a great player he shoots 90s from the whites 100s from blues. i gotta rebuild a set of heads for him but want to get the right deets pretty sure 38.5 x dgs400 will suit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIduffer Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 I am 6'4" and play a 38.5" 5 iron. I think a lower launching shaft as the taller/longer arms, very easy to get the ball in the air... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamkenstein Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 I am 6'4" and play a 38.5" 5 iron. I think a lower launching shaft as the taller/longer arms, very easy to get the ball in the air... That's an interesting point, I'm 6'5, play an AF-Tour 5 @ 39 inch shafted with Nippon 950 reg (look like I'm made out of pipe cleaners) and said club gets the ball to climb faster than my mates 8 iron. Was thinking I had a flip going on but this may be the reason. On a side note was thinking SP Blue/C Taper but not sure if I have the swing speed for these even in reg. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegaman Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 That's an interesting point, I'm 6'5, play an AF-Tour 5 @ 39 inch shafted with Nippon 950 reg (look like I'm made out of pipe cleaners) and said club gets the ball to climb faster than my mates 8 iron. Was thinking I had a flip going on but this may be the reason. On a side note was thinking SP Blue/C Taper but not sure if I have the swing speed for these even in reg. Any suggestions? I'm tall too, and hit the ball high as well. My buddy is as tall as you are and have a bit of a problem with his trajectory, he hits it sky high at times, and he plays Nippon 950s in stiff. I actually think you could handle the SP blues in regular unless you are a really slow swinger. The Nippon 950s in regular play pretty soft, dont they, especially after you have lengthened them 1 inch, this will make them play even softer. How about trying to go down to 38.5 in SP blues so as to not add too much SW? Or maybe Nippon 1050s or 1150s in regular? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegaman Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) And remember, just because somebody is tall does not automatically mean longer clubs. If you are tall, but have comparatively long arms too, compared to your body that is, you might only need standard length shafts. Karelin would probably need shafts that are shorter than standard for example..Players that need longer shafts are usually tall and have a bit shorter arms, again compared to their height. It's the height from your wrists to the ground that matters, not how tall you are. Ball striking often suffers when you lengthen the shafts, often it's better to not overdo the shaft lengthening and get your irons bent a bit more upright instead. I played my irons at 1 inch over standard (5 iron at 39) for quite some time, but have now gone to 38.5 instead and adjusted the lie to be a bit more upright, and my ball striking has for sure improved. Edited May 30, 2012 by Vegaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIduffer Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Even with longer arms, when being taller it is still a longer club... My tailor calls me monkey arms with a 36" sleeve. My hands hang past my pockets, yet am a 38.5" length, one fitter had me at 1" long previously... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supo Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) well his arms are really long, and hes using stock 37.5 inch shafts right now.. yes i think thats a bit too short! igot a great reply form tom wishon about this and he said an important factor was hand to floor measrement which in his case is short bec his arms are like monkeys. (great lineout jumper in his day ) so....... what were going with is. dg s400 bec not much else would work well, bec he doesnt hit the ball that hard even for a monster. 400 weight no probs for him. stiff perfectly fine @ 38 inch. heads were going for yamaha 2009 v forged NON TOUR bec they are just so damn good! yup.. thats the go Edited May 31, 2012 by supo67 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supo Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 ill show u gusy what tom posted to me ,,its damn impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIduffer Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 ill show u gusy what tom posted to me ,,its damn impressive! So where is the post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegaman Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Even with longer arms, when being taller it is still a longer club... My tailor calls me monkey arms with a 36" sleeve. My hands hang past my pockets, yet am a 38.5" length, one fitter had me at 1" long previously... Depends on how long your legs are. What is important is wrist to floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supo Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 " GUS: Height alone is IN NO WAY your indicator for how long your clubs should be. It is height + arm length as a starting point for comfort sake, then followed closely by a careful analysis of the swing characteristics which either make it easier or more difficult to control a longer length. From all that you then come up with the best length that fits the golfer for comfort and which also does not make the clubs more difficult to control than they possibly can be. People here criticize a wrist to floor measurement chart for length as being worthless. If a W to F chart is used for final length decisions, I agree it is wrong to do that. But a well thought out wrist to floor measurement chart is very valuable to offer a STARTING POINT ONLY FROM WHICH A SWING ANALYSIS IS CAREFULLY DONE TO THEN COME UP WITH THE FINAL BEST LENGTHS FOR THE GOLFER. I remember years ago fitting a number of the San Antonio Spurs players and former players. George Gervin for example was 6'7" and after all our analysis ended up with a set of irons in which the 5 iron was +3/4" but then the lengths between the rest of the irons was 3/8". And the club lengths fit him perfectly. Why? At 6'7 he had very long arms, which many very tall people do. He was also not that good of a player, with an over the top move and a little bit of an early release - both of which are swing elements that make it far more difficult to control a longer length. So the +3/4" on the 5 iron was the shortest length he could still have comfort over the ball for his height + arm length + stance position so that we could give him the best chance at controlling the club. Then we went 3/8" increments down from there so that he gradually got a little more over length but in clubs that with their progressively higher loft became easier to hit anyway. When we teach length fitting to clubmakers, we teach it like this: 1. Start with the Wrist to Floor measurement to come up with a STARTING POINT ONLY for the driver and 5 iron lengths. This is NOT the final length. This is ONLY an indication of what is the shortest length this golfer can achieve COMFORT with so he is not crouching over or altering his stance and posture too much. 2. Look at the golfer's swing path, transition force, swing tempo, point of release, overall golf athletic ability 3. Over the top/outside in path, strong forceful transition, fast tempo, early release and poor golf athletic ability are all swing characteristics that make it far, far more difficult to control a longer length. Square to inside path, smooth transition, smoother tempo, later release and good athletic ability are all swing characteristics that make it easier to control a longer length. 4. If the golfer has 3 or more of the "difficult" swing characteristics you never make the final lengths longer than what the W to F chart says - and you can always alter the wood to wood length increments to 3/4" and the iron to iron length increments to 3/8" or even 5/16" to give the golfer more comfort down through the set. 5. if the golfer has 1-2 of the "difficult" swing characteristics, you can go +1/2 over what the W to F chart says. You do not go longer than the W to F chart says unless the golfer has 3-4 or more of these "EASY" swing characteristics. Do length fitting this way, and you never will have length getting in the way of a golfer playing to the best of their ability. Right now in my estimation, within woods, 90% of all men and 99% of all women who play men's and women's wood lengths off the rack are using lengths which are much too long and getting in the way of them being able to play to the best of their ability. In irons it isn't as bad as that by far because over the past 30 yrs, iron lengths have only "grown" by 1/2". But in woods and chiefly in drivers, it really is unfortunate that so many golfers could be hitting the driver so much better if they only were fit to a much shorter driver length than what they bought off the rack. " TOM seriously what a top response. this is pretty definitive i think was most appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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