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Sword oil Vs Sewing Oil Vs WD-40


donzelly

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So, I'm about to recieve some raw wedges and was wondering what you guys use to keep them looking nice (I'm not a huge fan of rust). I live in florida by the coast so humidity is a big problem. How does sword oil compare to sewing machine oil and WD-40?

Obvisoulsyy wd-40 is the easiet to obtain and I assume sword oil would be the hardest.

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Well WD-40 is multi purpose and more "industrial". A lot of people use it, some refuse to, some are against using it.

Sword oil is more delicate and obviously the ingredients are very different.

It was a recipe from hundreds of years ago made to protect and clean beautiful forged Katana swords...

Its more expensive, more rare, but there are those who swear by it.

This does not mean of course if you have a raw wedge you should not do basics like wiping it down after each shot and cleaning it after a round. These little things help the wedge go a long way.

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For wedges, I just let em rust as I love that rustic look but WD40 works OK for wedges. Sewing oil works the same as sword oil, only smell much worst lol

However, if you're using for putters, baby oil works just as well IME. Be careful with WD40 as it's 'industrial' strength and it's purpose is to remove rust as well as prevent it so can do damage to some different finishing in putters.

Edited by EdGolf
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I would NEVER use WD40

Sword oil is the way to go but if not readily available baby oil is the next best thing.

Wipe the wedges clean and let them dry completely. If you use covers, do not leave them on

when not in use.

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I drive\cromikey, exactly.

Sword oil isn't that hard to find, and headcovers should be avoided as much as possible. And try keeping them indoors, especially during humid winter months.

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I'm wondering why nobody mentioned cooking oil. it's a very light oil and if you wrap the heads in old newspapers the oil will last way long. A spray of wax would probably work as well as long as you wipe it evenly over the entire surface. It would certainly be a cleaner way of protecting the heads. Lately I have been using rust converter but the brand I use puts a whitish gray color on the heads. Just brush a layer on and let dry, after which I can bag the clubs and play straight off. The rust converter lasts a couple of rounds, depending on how frequently you use the clubs involved.

Shambles

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Fluid Film

Cheap, lanolin based, solvent free, lasts a long time, environmentally friendly.

http://www.theruststore.com/Fluid-Film-1175-oz-Aerosol-P179C67.aspx

This would be my first choice if sword oil wasn't an option. It can also be purchased at any John Deere store.

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I'm wondering why nobody mentioned cooking oil. it's a very light oil and if you wrap the heads in old newspapers the oil will last way long. A spray of wax would probably work as well as long as you wipe it evenly over the entire surface. It would certainly be a cleaner way of protecting the heads. Lately I have been using rust converter but the brand I use puts a whitish gray color on the heads. Just brush a layer on and let dry, after which I can bag the clubs and play straight off. The rust converter lasts a couple of rounds, depending on how frequently you use the clubs involved.

Shambles

vegetable oil is the worst thing to use for cooking so maybe there is an actual benefit to it! :)

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I use Clove oil, which is excellent.

Out of interest it can also be used for;

Insect Repellent

Antiseptic

Relieve Flatulence

Premature Ejaculation

I only use it for club cleaning and protection. :tsg_smilie_smile2:

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I use Clove oil, which is excellent.

Out of interest it can also be used for;

Insect Repellent

Antiseptic

Relieve Flatulence

Premature Ejaculation

I only use it for club cleaning and protection. :tsg_smilie_smile2:/>

So what do you use for your other afflictions...

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  • 3 months later...

vegetable oil is the worst thing to use for cooking so maybe there is an actual benefit to it! :)

The most common cooking oil we have here is coconut. I wasn't aware that there was anything bad about vegetable oil, unless you were referring to it's effect, if any, on the taste of food. Back to donzelly's question, I long ago found attempts to resist rust too much trouble and settled on just cleaning the clubs with water and a stiff nylon brush every once in a while, letting them air dry and packing them back in the bag with the rain cover closed. I did the same with my raw wedges and to date the only thing that developed was a nice even brown patina. I rather like the looks because it's even and smooth. Much better results than rust converter which only looks nice when newly applied but wears unevenly if left alone.

Rust on mild steel is very very slow to grow and only develops flakes if the surface is left dirty to the point dirt cakes. These days I consider raw clubs more attractive than plated because, other than the brown patina, it maintains it's appearance. I've seen some new raw clubs that looked cancerous but that was only because the brown was still growing and it was coming in splotches. If you can handle the looks, just keep using them. I'm a coward and put them in the closet so I would not see them for long enough to let the brown even out and the club become attractive again.

Shambles

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In this part of Asia - like Hong Kong or Malaysia, my Yururi flatback raw can rust simply sitting in the closet..... I need to rub em down with sword oil every once in a while.

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In this part of Asia - like Hong Kong or Malaysia, my Yururi flatback raw can rust simply sitting in the closet..... I need to rub em down with sword oil every once in a while.

If it's new it's probably just the brown patina. Keeping the brown away gets old real quick with me. I consider that a battle that will be lost.

If you want to put up a fight against the brown patina, you might try a spray of wax and a cover of old newspaper. That should work provided you don't often use your clubs. An oil wipe also works but I really don't like either because you can get a transfer to the grips in the course of handling. I pretty much gave up and settled for the brown patina. If real rust develops, I will need to include new clubs in my budget more often in the same way new clothes become a real need more often because of air pollution, or use stainless clubs like the 17-4 that Ping uses. Air is like hydro static water pressure. There is no material that stops it, just ways of slowing it down, or diverting it.

Shambles

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hmmmm....i wonder if olive oil would work ??? My understanding is that any oil which prevents oxygen to reach the surface of the metal would work fine. The best oil would not interact with the metal but completely coat the metal and have some minor bonding/adhesion to the metal. Does oiling up the face result in less bite ?

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mmmm....you can always lick your clubs before hitting them, better get it directly from Italy or Corsica tho, real tasty.

hmmmm....i wonder if olive oil would work ??? My understanding is that any oil which prevents oxygen to reach the surface of the metal would work fine. The best oil would not interact with the metal but completely coat the metal and have some minor bonding/adhesion to the metal. Does oiling up the face result in less bite ?

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mmmm....you can always lick your clubs before hitting them, better get it directly from Italy or Corsica tho, real tasty.

im already ingesting too much baby oil at the strip club......

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WD40 is an excellent multi purpose lube, it's not the right product for this application though. The best rust preventative I've found is Bull Frog.

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WD40 is an excellent multi purpose lube, it's not the right product for this application though. The best rust preventative I've found is Bull Frog.

As in the sunscreen?

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