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TSG Club Works Finishes Now Available!


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Hi Chris,

Can you compare between Soft black over the head (including club face) vs. NiCr Satin Chrome Face Blackened only on the club face area? I mean in term of spin and feel (if it changes the club feel on impact), etc. Also, the price of each will be about the same?

Not sure I'll do which to which set but really itchy since you posted this

Mark

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That looks like patina from what I can see looking on my phone. If it's actually the carbon steel rusting, that would suggest very poor or extremely thin coverage. Patina is from oxidation of copper, but it doesn't damage the metal. The copper will definitely turn brown left untouched, and several things can advance the oxidation. I'd be surprised if that's actually rust, but the quickest way to tell is to use a little metal cleaner. If it turns orange again, patina was the right word. If it shows the carbon steel, whole other story.

Thanks Chris for the experiment, and thanks K for another lesson in copper. I think that is going to be the spot on test of true rust or not. Since rust is corrosive, using the cleaner and wiping would reveal what is under the finish. If it is patina on copper, it should just shine right up. Brilliant! (no pun intended ;)

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Hi Chris,

Can you compare between Soft black over the head (including club face) vs. NiCr Satin Chrome Face Blackened only on the club face area? I mean in term of spin and feel (if it changes the club feel on impact), etc. Also, the price of each will be about the same?

Not sure I'll do which to which set but really itchy since you posted this

Mark

I haven't had time to test everything yet, the Chrome or Satin with blackened face feels awesome to hit, it's a nice raw impact and the only way to really get the best of both worlds of feel and looks. I would use vinegar and WD-40 from time to time on the face.

Soft black feels pretty much like raw as well, thats more of a coating vs a plating so it wears nicely but also feels great.

I can't comment about spin besides that Raw after some rust can enhance spin.

As for prices, the most expensive are the black boron, teflon black, teflon satin. but there are also other considerations like the design of the cavity and if it's got an undercut or any materials that could possibly melt in the finishing process.

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re think on my choice for wedges Chris.. given they are all about feel.

Can you do soft black with blackened face?

Soft black is not a plating the face is technically already considered raw so not sure why but I think it can be done, I don't suggest.

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New options:

- Copper Under layer before ANY finish, yes you could do Copper under Copper

- CNC re-grooving and milling marks, expensive but we remove the original plating, mill the face/grooves, then send back to finishers this is also available on irons but keep in mind that face milling is a big loss in weight where grooves only isn't..

In the works: Shaving Driver faces to High COR!

We have many customers that have sent in heads for refinishing, can't wait till people get their stuff back and share their experience.

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Here's a little update:

Copper Satin is more stable than I had originally thought.

It's very dry in my area so not the best place to test rust/patina but every day I have been spraying it down with water and not drying it leaving it outdoors.

It's starting to pick up some different hue's of purple, blue & gold.

Does anyone know what chemical I can add to increase the amount of purple?

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post-18-0-88962600-1409784711_thumb.jpg

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That is actually starting to get a nice used look to it. Do you know what the actual process is to get this satin copper finish? Are the heads dipped in copper at some point then tools/chemicals used to get the soft satin texture?

Also, what playing characteristics would a copper under layer add? My guess would be an event softer feel, but I'll defer to any experts.

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That is actually starting to get a nice used look to it. Do you know what the actual process is to get this satin copper finish? Are the heads dipped in copper at some point then tools/chemicals used to get the soft satin texture?

Also, what playing characteristics would a copper under layer add? My guess would be an event softer feel, but I'll defer to any experts.

Diggin that Leica avatar! I really don't know the process, lots of dipping in various chemicals, also brushing on the wheel for satin look.

Copper creates a softer feel at impact, also increases the head weight a little. We have to charge a bit more because sometimes it messes up the outer finish so it must be redone on our dime.

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Diggin that Leica avatar! I really don't know the process, lots of dipping in various chemicals, also brushing on the wheel for satin look.

Copper creates a softer feel at impact, also increases the head weight a little. We have to charge a bit more because sometimes it messes up the outer finish so it must be redone on our dime.

can i get a quote for my 302s copper on copper????

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can i get a quote for my 302s copper on copper????

sure, please email me [email protected] with as much details as possible on what you want.

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Here's a little update:

Copper Satin is more stable than I had originally thought.

It's very dry in my area so not the best place to test rust/patina but every day I have been spraying it down with water and not drying it leaving it outdoors.

It's starting to pick up some different hue's of purple, blue & gold.

Does anyone know what chemical I can add to increase the amount of purple?

IMG_3992.JPG

IMG_3991.JPG

IMG_3990.JPG

Torching it is probably your best bet to bring out purple, Chris. Too much time with the torch and it will go brown. Of course, metal cleaner (I use Bar Keeper's Friend) will bring it right back to orange. Hope that helps.
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Does anyone know what chemical I can add to increase the amount of purple?

attachicon.gifIMG_3992.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_3991.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_3990.JPG

I bought a product to help "patina" copper a couple of years a go. Unfortunately the label is hard to read now.

Called "Patina-_ _ " (2 cursive letters I can't read)

I believe the company is

"A-West"

Box 1144

Woodstock Ga. 30188 Can't swear to the address being right as it's hard to read the label

It brought out the Patina

Edited by idrive
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  • 1 month later...

Any members had any 'works' done yet. Pictures please..........

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I have set of wedges coming back in a few days will post pics then

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So I got back my Crazy wedges from TSG Club Works

I sent in both the 52 and 58 wedges, they were unplated raw wedges. Over the past two years they had rusted over and had many little dings in the sole.

After discussing my options with Chris I went with the Soft Black finish. We added paint fill to the the back of the wedges to give them some added flare.

The TSG crew were able to remove the dings and make the wedges look brand new. I am happy with the work and now am ready to move on with another Club works project. Please see the attached photos.

post-15908-0-62297200-1413319736_thumb.jpost-15908-0-41903600-1413319759_thumb.jpost-15908-0-63247900-1413319781_thumb.jpost-15908-0-30180700-1413319798_thumb.jpost-15908-0-06128100-1413319826_thumb.j

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Awesome! Is the finish in the first pic the same as the others? Looks much darker, almost like Black Boron. Love the soft black though, great choice...been thinking about what to send in and lagging because of indecision, but now you got me motivated to get some stuff done pronto!

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