Shambles

Nice photo and thank you. Clearly a good photographer. Seems to me the photographer was more interested in his art than the subject. Shambles

I'd be interested in seeing pictures of what else he did. I rather like the zigzag line as a delicate touch towards artistry. Shambles

For sure anything added to the head will carry a weight penalty. Taylor Made used to add foam to their burners way back when metal woods were first introduced by them to make the heads equal or reasonably approach the weight of wood heads, thereby making the transition less of a stress of changes for players. If you cut one of those old metal woods you'll see the foam inside. Shambles

I can't be sure but I think I've seen a wood shafted putter of that sort back in the nineties or late eighties. A friend of mine owned it but left it in his bathroom for some time while he tried out other putters. Rather unfortunately, the wood warped and he tossed the putter and I regret that I only heard about it long after it was too late to ask for the putter rather than let it be tossed. It shouldn't be too difficult to fit a new piece of wood to the head and cut, shave and sand to fit. A bit of whipping tied the same way as on the old Drivers and a bit of leather cut and sewn to fit. Might be a bit time consuming finding the wood weathered correctly, but very possible. I would suggest the shaft be finished with sanding sealer well diluted with laquer thinner brushed or wiped on in many layers until a deep subtle sheen is developed. Much better than gloss to my eyes. Shambles

Looks like a nice looking set coming up. Wish I had the software to save the video. Shambles

You posted while I was typing. I really need to learn touch typing. :( Shambles

Depends on the location of the bounce and how you like to take the ball. Shallow swings gravitate towards a bounce farther back on the flange whereas a forward bounce would be more useful to, practically dictate, a steeper swing. Shambles

I pretty much agree with the shorter club theory mostly because they really are easier to swing in a variety of ways. Unfortunately I doubt Wishon goes far enough and should also make longer shafts for taller players. I see too many tall players needing to bend over way too much at address. There is a mine field involved in exploring this theory of mine as it's rather difficult to find the right shafts for taller players regardless that they are probably out there. There would also be the problem of re learning the swing as everything is affected when you lengthen the shaft. Shambles

Sounds like a price I can pay to own. If the offer is real I'd like to know how heavy and delicate that machine is, and also how big. Maybe a picture would help. I would want door to door shipping. Shambles

It's a bit difficult to swallow 610 HP, an AWD and 18 MPG in one sentence. Shambles

Chromikey, It's a good looking job you got. I got mine painted with car paint by a car painter but neglected to look for paint that can stand the heat of a shaft pull. Next time I'll go to the paint shop before going to the painter. :) Shambles

Any idea of what kind of paint was used ? I repainted some clubs, plain glossy black with automotive paint and it cannot survive the heat needed for a shaft change. Next time I would like to use the right kind of paint. Shambles

For beginners I'd still reccomend selecting a top quality body. The selection of which body is more a matter of taste and preference, but that is in your hands. I myself chose a Nikon because of the reputed durability in abusive conditions such as way off road. Cannon appears to have a greater selection of super zooms, which are just about a necessity for sports, though I like them for portraits provided you have the room. Other brands have a reputation for the quality of their lenses. Good quality lenses are a must if you're going to shoot into the shade on a bright sun shiny day or do low light shoots, micro or action shoots. Fact is, access to good quality lenses allows a tremendous amount of flexibility as to the type of shooting you can try, a top quality body will serve and endure your mistakes as well as allow you to grow as your ambitions increase. Shambles.

I'm old school so I'm still of the frame of mind that the lens makes the camera. Granted that the new chips have expanded the role of the camera bodies, a good lens that balances well on the body is a must for any general purpose camera. Most of the time, a 50mm will be plenty good but I like the added flex of a handy zoom like my 28-105mm. For portraits I like the 105 but prefer the flexibility of the 80-200 especially for giving the model room and also for softening features. It also works pretty good for landscape. I'm still using the D200 but don't do a lot of shooting these days. Shambles

That sounds great. Back in the very very long time ago one of those science guys did a demo for my school, making foam by simply mixing 2 chemicals. Obviously there was a chemical reaction that made a hefty smell and probably some heat, and foam was created from just a couple of drops. The amount of foam was more than enough to overflow from the container. I thought that was how they made those styropore and PVC things these days. However those pellets and an oven sounds a lot cleaner and handier. If you can get hold of some of those pellets and find out the temp the oven needs you could probably experiment enough to learn to control the added weight and still fill the head. Shambles

I'm wondering if that slider mechanism can be used on regular irons without breaking down. Shambles

I agree. I have a set of these 3-P and they are very neutral and do require a good hand to use all that they can give. Very stable but they are very capable of playing like a ballet dancer on her toes. It takes very little effort to shape shots with these and it's more a matter of how good is the player. Shambles

I probably agree with this post but am not absolutely certain. D1 used to be the upper limit of what I could swing in a Driver back in the days of Persimmon and steel shafts when the longest club was 44" and I was a lot stronger and more eager to practice back then. I was rather surprised a few years ago to discover my Driver was a D 3 and I had days when I could barely feel it. I'm suspecting total weight also counts more than we give it credit for in Driver swing feel. Shambles

It's not really something I would call rust. It's a patina because it's a smooth cover on the surface, as against rust which is flaky. To my mind, rust comes off on your thumb as flakes and maybe that is the image they sell as being more grippy on the ball. The old raw 14's I have are just plain metal, rather smooth and does not even stain the ball. I do keep them clean with a stiff nylon brush and water, but after allowing them to air dry, it's just metal to me. They grip the ball well, but nothing special or spectacular. Just good. Shambles

It's a bit beyond me that someone buys a raw club only to begin the struggle against the patina. In my case the most difficult time was the beginning wherein the patina developing looked sick and cancerous to my eyes. However, let it get to the point where an even brown covers the whole head and you now have a very durable look to the club. The only wear you will see will be the impact points and even those will return to the even brown patina, or try in any case, depending on the amount of use. All I've ever felt the need to do with my clubs was to keep them clean. However, if the brown does not suit you, you could brush on a coat of rust converter. In my case it put a whitish gray color to the metal and lasts a couple of uses before needing a new application. Shambles

Anything excessively stiff for your swing but that will also promote other errors and even a total board will not absolutely prevent a pull or hook. Man's ability to create mistakes knows no bounds. Shambles

Gun Blue is a chemical used to blue gun metal. Done right and you get a nice bluish color on the metal like on new guns. Unfortunately it was never intended for the impacts that a golf club goes through so I doubt it's worth the time and trouble to apply it as it does not last too long in use. I get that whitish gray color by dipping the club heads in a local rust converter. It lasts about 2 or three rounds of use, probably less if you need to wedge a lot of shots. I've come to prefer the brown patina that develops naturally as it's the lowest maintenance. I just clean the clubs with water and leave them in the bag waiting for the next golf day. Shambles

Likewise. .355 tapered. I've been fiddling with different shafts lately on these heads and that is the tip size. BTW, interesting hosels. It's the only set of irons I've run across that have ribs inside the hosel and I'm wondering what that serves. Shambles

That business of wiping the oil off before play is just too much trouble for me but necessary if you don't want the possibility of having oil transfer to your grips. It's why I don't like oil for protection against rust. However, if you really believe in the need for oil, just wipe an oily cloth evenly on the heads and wrap the heads in old newspaper to both preserve the oil and also to prevent it from working it's way down to the grips. Cleaner would be to spray it lightly and evenly with a spray wax. It carries the minus of wax build up, but that can be reduced with a shoe brush or a vigorues cloth rub. Over doing with wax can also lead to wax build up in the grooves. More long term is to wipe the heads with rust converter because you can just go off and play without removing it and subsequently brush more on those parts that had the converter rubbed off in play. The minus is that you get a head color that may not be to your liking. Personally I prefer to just let the brown patina develop and just keep the clubs clean thereafter. Rust takes a very long time, read years, to do any harm to mild steel though it eats up hardened steel like peanuts in a bar. The only catch is if you live in a highly acidic atmosphere as in a very polluted city, or a beach house. Shambles

Surface rust falls off the club head simply by impact with a golf ball. Patina is there to stay unless you use a more harsh method such as fine sand paper, and that is a dangerous thing because you might cause the face to become concave. Just plain regular use should allow the club to develop a reasonably even patina. It's really much better to just use the club a lot and simply wash it with water and a stiff nylon brush after use. Do this and the club will maintain it's appearance so long that you'll need to think to remember how old it's become. Yururi is a Japanese brand. Shambles