acrazygolfer

I bet Ernie plays with the low torque shaft because he released the club late, below the waist. Also look at where the shaft bends, more toward the grip.

Yes.

Can you also list the price. Thanks, Ben/Mod

The shaft is the "engine" of the club ... just ask any knowledgeable clubfitter. OEMs buy their shafts in volume, after working with the shaft manufacturer to develope the shaft for a particular driver. However, the OEMs targeted audiences are mid to high-handicapper, low ball slicer and thus most OEMs shafts are mid to low kickpoints to get the ball up and high torque so that the club head can rotate around the shaft to a "close" position preventing the slice. For this reason, within the last few years, more and more OEMs are offering quality shaft as an option. For example, the new TM r7 425 can be purchased with the Fuji Rombax as an option. Spending the extra cash can only make the game more enjoyable! :tsg_smilie_money3:

I was taught to play the ball back toward the right foot (rt. hand golfer) and use a flatter back swing. On the down swing, hit the ball with the hands in the forward position and don't turn the hands over preventing the from from rising. I'm still learning how to execute the shot. Butch Harmon learned the swing from the Ben Hogan and he taught Tiger to hit the "stinger." According to Golf Digest, it took Tiger 2 years to hit the "stinger." Here is the article in the Jan. 2002 issue. Golf is difficult enough when playing conditions are benign. Toss in a little wind, and shots of any distance can become problematic. Personally, I like tough conditions, because they separate shotmakers from the rest of the field, and they allow me to use my creativity. I developed my low ball to give me an edge during the type of conditions prevalent early in the golf season and on windy, ocean-side courses. I believe that's why my record in the Mercedes Championships and at Pebble Beach is pretty good. I can hit my 2-iron stinger on holes like Nos. 3 and 11 at Pebble and little punch shots into some of the greens that are exposed to the wind. This shot begins with a single thought: Keep it down and under control. I set up with the ball slightly back of middle in my stance (right). From there it's just a matter of executing the proper swing. For more on how I do that, open the foldout. I fatten my swing Positioning the ball back in my stance does two things: (1) It gets my hands a little ahead of the ball, delofting the club, and (2) it helps me get "on top" of the ball with my upper body during the through-swing (small photo). Another key to hitting the ball low is to flatten my swing. A flatter swing decreases the angle of attack and the amount of backspin I put on the ball, both of which help me keep it down. I also usually select one more club--5-iron, say, instead of 6-iron--and swing easier, again to reduce backspin. Continue article Advertisement Through impact, I try to feel as if the emblem on my glove goes toward the target a little longer, actually leading the clubhead in that direction. Mind you, this is just a feeling, but it helps me execute the shot. Flattening my backswing also shortens it a little, just as using one more club and swinging easier produces a naturally abbreviated follow-through (large photo). I cut my follow-through off a little later than some players, but we're all trying to do the same thing: keep the ball under the wind and improve our accuracy and distance control. COPYRIGHT 2002 New York Times Company Magazine Group, Inc. COPYRIGHT 2002 Gale Group

Beautiful looking putter, Chris. It looks similar to the Betti TourSlant with the plumber-neck.

No problem ... I'll also not bring along the 'SC golf bag, towel, marker, hat, etc. :tsg_smilie_whistle:

We can win next year without Leinart & Bush. David Booty, White, Smith, ect. and the defense is getting better too.

I'm just not the type to go crazy over golf clubs. However, the W-505 is the first driver I bought in over 2 years.

Great driver, even with the stock shaft. BruinDuke, when we play after the holidays, I'll bring it along for you to hit.

You can find the putters via the "Pro Shop." Welcome to TSG.

Taipanli is correct. Whether US OEMs or Japanese OEMs, you must have an understanding of your swing profile to fully appreciate the equipment, especially when it comes to shafts. The members here would be more than happy to answer any question you may have ... just ask. Welcome to TSG.

You are to butt trim and not tip trim, correct? All my drivers are 44.5 and am not losing any distance going from 45" to 44.5".

I also did not see the "not too expensive." :tsg_smiley_laughatyou:

In the old days, MacGreggor was a big time player. I'm glad they are slowly coming back with very high tech equipment. MacGreggor is very affordable to the average golfers.

Best legal USGA - Srixon W-505. Best legal else where - Nike Ignite+ DFI.

Tip trim affects the flex of the shaft ... for instant tip trim of 1/2" results in slightly firmer feel and 1" results in a substantially firmer feel. If you are to trim the shaft, tip trim first and then butt trim to playing lenght. Why do you need to tip trim? Do you have a delayed release of the cocked/hinged wrist (defines as the angle between the left arm and the shaft for right-hand golfer)? Here's why, in the dynamic of a down swing, if you unhinges the wrist as soon as the start of the down swing, the force that causes the shaft to bend will be less as the club approaches the ball and therefore a softer tip is needed since a softer tip will cause the club to bend more. Remember that "boardy" feel? Too soft a tip or too firm a tip are both no good. I don't play with 6064 any more. The current shafts are Tour AD M65(s), I65 and Srixon stock shaft. SR I think is an in-betweener of a reg. and stiff.

Now I'm interested in dropping the 60* and to replace it with a "utility" to fill-in the gap between the 220i and the 3-wood.

Sfgolfer and Bernard aka Plus1 or Chris can give you a better answer regarding the 6568 since I only played with the 6064, which has a torque rating of 4.2. However, based on your ss of 100 to 105, I do believe the 6568 will be boardy for you unless you are an agressive swinger from the top. Noted the lost of distance and the inability to get the ball in the air with the Diamana 73X shafted to the 905 were due to: (1) the 73X has a torque rating of 3.2 thus a stiffer feel, (2) mid/high kick point which is intended for a more boring trajectory; and (3) it was probably inserted all the way in the bore thru hosel of the 905. For comparison, my ss is about 108/110, semi-agressive down-swing with high trajectory. For these reasons, I want my shaft to be between high 60 grams to low 70 grams with torque rating between 2.2 and 3.5 with high kick point. Both the I65 and the stock Srixon 3003J (tipped 1/4") fit my swing characteristic.

Torque is the measure of lateral twisting the shaft experiences under playing condition. The less the shaft and head twist at impact, the tighter the dispersion and thus more accuracy. Torque ranges from 1.8 to 7.2. You don't have to worry too much about torque unless you're an agressive swinger, in that case you would need to look for a shaft with lower torque rating since that shaft will be less prone to twisting, which equates to greater consistency. The higher the torque, the softer the feel since high torque shaft absorbes most of the vibration upon impact. If you want a lighter shaft and softer feel, go with the 6064L (62 grams w/ torque rating of 4.2) versus 6568 (66 grams & 3.5). The 6064L (low kick point) will help with getting the ball into the air.

I'm done purchasing driver for the next few months due to the recent purchased of the Srixon W-505.

Updated: 8:29 p.m. ET Dec. 13, 2005 SAN FRANCISCO - Microsoft Corp. on Tuesday warned users of its Windows operating system of a "critical" security flaw in its software that could allow attackers to take complete control of a computer. The world's largest software maker issued a patch to fix the problem as part of its monthly security bulletin. The problem mainly affects the Windows operating system and Microsoft's Internet Explorer Web browser. Computer security experts and Microsoft urged users to download and install the patch available at www.microsoft.com/security. Microsoft said the vulnerability exists in its Internet Explorer Web browser, which an attacker could exploit to take over a PC by running software code after luring users to malicious Web pages. Microsoft also issued one other security warning it rated at its second-highest level of "important." A vulnerability defined as "important" is one where an outsider could break into a machine and gain access to confidential data but not replicate itself to other computers, Microsoft said. Microsoft defines a flaw as "critical" when the vulnerability could allow a damaging Internet worm to replicate without the user doing anything to the machine. The "critical" flaw affects Internet Explorer which is a part of Windows while the "important" flaw is a vulnerability in the fundamental code that the higher level functions of Windows are all based on. For more than three years, Microsoft has been working to improve the security and reliability of its software as more and more malicious software targets weaknesses in Windows and other Microsoft software. More than 90 percent of the world's personal computers run on the Windows operating system. © Reuters 2005. All rights reserved. Republication or redistribution of Reuters content, including by caching, framing or similar means, is expressly prohibited without the prior written consent of Reuters. Reuters and the Reuters sphere logo are registered trademarks and trademarks of the Reuters group of companies around the world. IF POSSIBLE, USE FIREFOX.

Jet, W60 stiff no tipping since it is a mid torque, low kick point & soft tip which translate into a higher ball flight. You cannot go wrong with the dispersion characteristic of GD shafts ... tight!

I've got all 4 leaning against the wall (Tour Newport, One, Balde, & Zero). I've got to agree with Plus1 that both the One and the Balde are awesome, both in feel and look.

Club weight and swing weight are two distinct creatures. Club weight is the overall weight of the club while SW is the measurement of clubs balanced, using an industry standard 14" fulcum. SW ranges from A-0 to G-2. The SW of the drivers produced by OEMs is D-0. Shortening the club, without additional changes to the club, will affect SW.