FAQ

That is a great photo. The guy's a character :laugh:

Google it http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=refin...G=Google+Search But, It's usually about $20 apiece if you remove the shafts first. That's for forged Irons. ------------------ Old Chrome is stripped off - Entire head is polished to remove nicks, scratches and gouges. - Head is rechromed using a two-part nickel/chrome process. - All stampings are paint filled with original colors. - Available in bright mirror or satin finish. - Price: Unshafted irons: $16.95 each. Shafted irons: $21.50 each.

I like Chris's routine, but I'm not superstitious. I need more to be ready. In fact, if I haven't been practicing enough, I usually won't play. It makes me practice more because I want to play. Whacky I know. If I have time I like to do it the standard way. I like to run in the morning and it improves my outlook and mood for the day. That's usually everyday. I won't lift weights on the day I play though. Get there early and first thing is putting practice. Then stretch a little and warm up. Then I start with my lob wedge and skip a club going through my bag up to my Woods and hit each one. I'll go through about 50 or so balls that way. I end up with the club I'm going to use first and that's usually the driver. I will hit 15 or so balls with it. Just trying to hit with good contact.

Dude, while that all sounds good, why didn't you just get them refinished with a satin finish professionally? By sanding them like that they will have more of a tendency to rust and abrasion. Why spend $1,000 for a set of irons and then sandpaper them? That's only my $.02. :surprize:

Thanks Chris. That Tour M 65 looks like the one I would like to try. I like the lighter shafts. Or the W60 in a Regular might be interesting too.

It's a bit of a crapshoot. Typically the bore-through will increase the stiffeness about 2/3 of a flex. Keep in mind that the steps in Rifles go from 5.0 to 5.5 to 6.0. Those are whole steps basically. Also, check the shaft manufacturers recommendations. If the shaft is supposed to be tipped and you insert it without tipping it will play truer to flex. Another thing that guys have done for me is to insert the shaft only partway and to spec and then fill the hole in the bottom of the head with the tip of another shaft. That works too.

Here's the answers and explanations to all your questions http://www.swingweight.com/swingweight,_ho..._what_&_why.htm ... Here's a snip of it... "For each 9 grams difference there is between shafts, there will be a 1-swingweight change in the club, provided no change in its length is made."

Those GD shafts are great. The GD Japan site doesn't have specs or even the shafts up on their site yet. Not in Tourspec Catalog yet either. Could you post the weight, torque and kick for us. Thanks in advance.

They really have a different design than the MX23's though. I agree with you about the forgiveness. The 27's are great irons. I'm extremely happy with mine. Plus you can get them customized however you like.

Those clubs are for sale by Callaway too. I would not accept any manufacturer telling me that I'm "SOL" after I have paid for a club. Added to that, I would NOT send any tour club back to the manufacturer for anything unless the head completely cracked and I was looking for a replacement.

I'll say this as well, if you send a tour club back to the manufacturer for anything less than a cracked club then you need to have your head examined. Let your pro work on it and forget about the manufacturer. This is just whacko.

Sure, http://www.puttermonster.com has some.

Once someone buys a club then it belongs to the person that bought it. It's not the responsibility of the manufacturer to decide who can keep it. I think this story is bogus. :bulls**t:

I'd probably say the 761TB (Speeder - 761TB TourSpec - 46 77.5 3.1 midhigh) but they aren't that heavy. That's pretty heavy! Here's a few... Fit ON! 11 professional 95 - 46 in. 93 grams 3.0 Torque high kick Fit ON! 11 HK-PRO95 Tour-Spec - 46 in. 93 grams 3.0 Torque high kick

.355 Taper tip

I've just about given up on any driver from Japan really working for me. It has been futile so far and I've tried many. When you do find one that you like, it's not conforming in the higher lofts. :yuk: I'm very happy with the Cleveland's for now.

Why go for the U.S. Spec line? I've played Japan Zodia's for years and they are great wedges. The Premium line has a nice grind for laying out the club too. I'm using the MP's now with lower lofts and I'm very happy with them, but the Zodia's are really a great wedge. I still keep the 53* and the 59*. Sharper, square tour grooves. I found them to be very accurate. That being said, I have a couple of Japan Scratch coming and I'm really looking forward to those. :love:

LOL!!!! :cool:

It would take something like a crane to get those GAF1's out of my bag. They are just as easy to hit out of any lie as my TM 200's but much more solid and longer. That's saying a lot! Of course the Ho in me is always looking to see what's next.

Kr0nik - that's before my tour club time. Amazing. Of course the issue of them being genuine is still there, but price? Wow.

It's when guys have had their clubs worked on by Joe Kwok. He is a master clubmaker that does great work and is highly recommended. Also, I know Joe would never use Quickset unless it had to be. He would choose to use 24 hour.

My opinion is that there really isn't any Gauge except Gauge Japan. The others are just KMart knockoffs. I agree that Gauge Japan will have to do a better job of marketing/branding to get that message out if they want to compete globally.

ForgedCB - you have a great memory. Those satin photos that I posted a long time ago actually belonged to someone else. I have a set of Z's but they are chrome. There aren't very many of the satin sets around from the factory. Very rare!

Whatever you want as far as shafts. If you order Custom you can get any color, grip, and anything else too. I've had both irons and I would say one of the main reasons that I'm using the Mizuno's is because of the bounce and grind. There's more bounce in the Miz and the grind is better for me too. Another thing besides the offset that was pointed out above is the head shape. Nothing wrong with either but the Gauge are longer and heavier. The Mizuno's are more traditional Japanese with the pointed toe and smallish head. Much like TourStage and with less offset. Thinner from the top than the Gauge. Both are excellent choices and great irons!

That's what I have heard to be true about the R7's too. Thanks for that post. The only caveat to this is the fact that there seems to be a completely different R7 club out there that has a wider face and it's not available in retail. Could be prototypes.