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Need some technical help on a shaft


bk24bk

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I purchased a TRPX Air shaft and installed in a JBeam Glorious. It's a stiff flex and I had it put in at 46.5".

I snap hooked the sh*t out of it. very active tip section. Builder says it is 252cpm at 46.5" and is an 8.0 on the frequency chart. I'm not very well versed on all this, but what is tipping it 1/2" or 1" going to do for me? I don't really want to tinker with it, cuz once you cut it, there ain't no going back. Suggestions

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How Much Will Tip Trimming Affect Shaft Flex?

"When you tip a shaft, what you are doing is removing some of the smaller, more flexible portion of the shaft (tip), and compensating by using part of the larger, stiffer portion of the shaft (butt). This combination makes your tipped shaft be stiffer than an untipped shaft at the same length.

It is not really the tipping that makes the shaft stiffer, but rather the fact that you now are using more of the stiffer butt section. For most UST shafts (and those of many other manufacturers), 1" of tip trimming is approximately equivalent to making the shaft ½ flex stiffer. Of course you should use caution in tip trimming shafts.

First of all, make sure that the particular shaft is capable of being tipped (check the manufacturer’s instructions). Secondly, make sure that you do not run out of parallel tip sections of the shaft to properly install it into the ferrule and hosel."

This is all a quote from a club builder.

In my experience, the stiffer the shaft, the more ani-left it is. Tipping will also, lower spin and ball flight....by how much...depends on the player.

Edited by golfer75
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Please don't tip the new Air as you would find it difficult to sell. The S flex or swing profile might not fit you but I am sure it would fit others.

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I am also trying the Air in a Modart D head at 45.25". A very active tip and just starting to get used to the profile. I can't imagine how it is at the length you are trying! I agree with Duff, before you tip, maybe grab a Touale and see if that profile is better for your swing as the resale will be higher for the Air if you don't tip, etc later?

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FWIW, I've found that tipping a shaft actually makes it play more to the left, which, as noted above, is not consistent with prevailing opinion from a few other sources. I'd recommend giving it a shot, just to see how it works, unless you really must recoup the cost. Real, practical knowledge of shafts is one of those things that I think many people should make a real effort to experiment with and understand without skipping around with different manufacturers and even product lines, if it can be helped.

The nearest thing that I can figure, if you're interested, is that the stiffer shaft kicks through faster and closes the face, similar to how a stiffer shaft will have higher CPM. Conversely, a softer shaft lags a bit, which opens the face.

**A caveat with this, though, If you are getting a real short snap hook intead of a higher, long hook. I had a bad snap hook last year using a much softer and lighter shaft than I now use. This year, its mostly gone. I think it had more to do with insufficient hip rotation than anything else, and simply getting more practice in. If it's a pronounced standard hook you are seeing, then reference what I've said first. Snap hooks can be a different animal altogether.

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Tipping does not alter the flex only the profile, I would not tip this top end shaft...I would sell and try another as mark pointed out.

If you do tip it then you are left with a FW shaft if it doesn't work...value would be significantly reduced.

If you J beam has weights try some lighter configurations.

Edited by hutchy
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I'm not afraid of tipping at all and while I understand the perspective of others in this thread from the angle of resale and value, I would have missed many great setups if I didn't tip.

I personally like to play the softest flex possible that I can control and get good timing with. I often start soft and adjust my swing, then if that don't work I tip, for this reason I start the length a bit longer to have the room to cut while keeping a decent SW.

In golf out of the box almost nothing fits because it's made for a particular demographic, but what if we are not exactly that demo? then we must tweak, test, and learn. If we just jump from shaft to shaft because we can't hit one we don't learn much about why certain things work or not for our swings.

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I agree with Chris. Also since you started t 46.5" and now at 45.75", you would have no problem selling the shaft, as it still plays longer than most. Glad the tipping worked for you

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Yes Chris makes a good point but It would clearly make a difference to resale value as not all like tipped shafts, if a shaft is untipped....then IFyou buy it second hand you have options, Tipped shafts are not for everyone & once tipped your options are limited.



Even if it plays 46 or so...when tipped you must state this if you sell.



I just sold a old new Zcom shaft and that shaft has to be tipped before use...thats when shafts had to be fitted once purchased.


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Did you tip it and make it 45.75", or did you add the length back in the butt? (THAT didn't sound right!)

You weren't hooking it because it was too soft (unless your name is Gary Woodland), maybe because it was too long. 252CPM's at that length is STOUT.

But whatever, glad it's working for ya.

Edited by Miuramaniac
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