gregoire56

I also love the MA01H, that is definitely my favorite hybrid ever. I don’t think Modart makes a DI do they? My favorite UT ever is definitely the Epon AF-901 UT. The 19* AF-901 I hit almost just as far as the 19* MA01H, but even straighter. I have times when I will prefer one over the other and vise versa. One of my other favorite hybrids is the original Callaway X-Hot Pro, I absolutely love the compact egg shape of that head and it clobbers the ball. So easy to hit this club. Two hybrids that I have wanted to try for a while are the Baldo TTX and the Epon AF-903 Hybrid. The TTX has a forged DAT55G face, and the AF-903 has a forged SP700 face, and both of these are pretty unheard of on hybrids. The TTX is a bit larger than I prefer, I like a head size around 100cc, but I do think it has a nice shape so I’m very interested.

Fact. I need to check these out

Thank you, good sir I have not had a chance to hit these yet.. I completely understand the concept of the titanium in the muscle and how/why it works, but what I’m wondering is how someone like yourself would describe these compared to a normal one piece forged head as far as playability is concerned? Shape wise they definitely look like a semi-compact MB and not a CB, and I understand that the size of the “sweet” area on the face is a bit larger because the titanium is creating a cavity effect inside the muscle, but do they FEEL more like a CB or an MB? The size also makes me think they’ll be more workable like an MB, is that true?

Thanks, ya it is. I think the appearance from address is slightly open too (which I also like) but I think that’s because of the higher driver loft and black face, because I had measured the face angle and loft in a jig and it is pretty much perfectly square, actually just a hair on the closed side. Measured face angle was about 1/4* closed

That is correct. Builder should have applied epoxy to the underside of ferrule to adhere it to top of the hosel. However, even without doing this the ferrule won’t usually move unless it’s the wrong size. Shaft tips range in size from 0.335” to 0.370”, when you use a correctly sized ferrule it will just barely fit over the tip of the shaft and quickly become extremely snug as it’s moved up the tip. What you need to do is apply a bunch of epoxy to the top of the hosel and underneath the ferrule, then push them together firmly, wipe away any excess, make sure the ferrule is just about flush with the hosel, and let the epoxy cure. This should prevent it from happening again.

Here’s my covid purchases: Yonex Ti Hybrid MB #3-PW - I’ve been searching for a set of these in good condition and for a decent price for years. I finally found a full set in EXCELLENT condition Crazy CRZ-435 - the infamous bomber. I’ve been reading member posts about how great this driver is ever since I discovered TSG. I will now be able to experience it for myself. Even got one with custom paint fill

-Crazy CRZ-460IP 11.5° driver with Fuji Motore F1 55g X flex 44.75” $old http://blog.tourspecgolf.com/crazy-crz-460-driver-review/ -Epon AF-903 20° driving iron with tour issued Matrix Ozik hM3 Black Tie 105g X flex Mint condition Laser engraved tour serial number Head cover included $old -PRGR iD nabla Tour 52° & 58° wedges with PRGR SSIII Wedge shaft (100g, high kick) $old -Aldila Rogue Black Tour I/O 110MSI, 60g, Tour X flex, 44 1/8” driver shaft (.335) One-time pull, mint condition $150 shipped -Tour issued Mitsubishi Kuro Kage XT80 X flex 43 3/4” (.335) TaylorMade tour shaft laser engraving $130 shipped -Brand new Aldila Rogue Black 85H X flex 42” raw “blacked out” hybrid shaft (.370) $115 shipped -Project X HZRDUS 85g 6.5 (X) flex 40” hybrid shaft (.370) One-time pull, mint $65 shipped

yes, thank you as usual for the quality information

wow.. impressive. pics will be required once this setup is all together

I hear you.. since I was spending so much more time on my computer I wound up finding a couple of awesome deals on some very good condition preowned clubs. I couldn't say no. out of curiosity what is the Swag that you're referring to?

I have a Kuro Kage XT80 TiNi x flex that plays 44.5" in my CRZ-435 for sale if anybody is interested

Also, stretching a grip down IS an effective and practical way to create a smaller grip. By stretching a grip down 3/4” you’re making it one size smaller (or -1/64”) than that grip’s normal install size. So if you were to take a grip that normally installs at standard size, and evenly stretch it down 3/4” past where it normally installs to, then the finished installed grip size will be -1/64” under standard size. This can be very useful for anyone whose grip size is -1/64” under standard because they can then stretch down a standard grip to reach their size instead of building up a much smaller grip

This definitely does create more feedback and firm up the grip because you’re spreading the same amount of material over a wider area over top of the shaft, so it actually is thinning out the walls of the grip and bringing your hands closer to the shaft underneath. With less material between your hands and the shaft there is less to disperse the vibrations so you feel it more

An M58 is meant to create a standard sized grip on a .580 shaft, likewise for an M60 on a .600 shaft.. since both grips are designed to create a standard OD, but one has a thinner ID, then the one with the thinner ID needs more material to reach the same OD. It’s not really an opinion matter, that’s just how these grips were designed. Keep in mind these grip companies are like shaft and head companies because all standard sized grips do not actually install to a standard size. Some standard grips will actually install to -1/64” or +1/64”, and so on

I got started building golf clubs in my basement with my own clubs. First, I was a bit of a club ho and got tired of going to my local builder and having to pay every time I just wanted to install a new grip or pull a shaft, so I decided to learn how to do the more basic stuff like that on my own. I quickly learned that trying to pull a graphite shaft without a shaft puller is a very bad idea if you're not trying to ruin the shaft 😕 . Then I got very interested in some of the finer points of building.. how length and weight relate to proper balance, the correct ways to build different types of clubs, etc. etc. I thought it would be nice to have a thread where golfers who are interested in club building and fitting can post questions and get answers, and club builders can discuss different methods and provide info to one another, things like that. So the purpose of this thread is to discuss club building and fitting, and related things. The topic I chose for this first post is one that, in my experience, many builders and fitters do not pay much attention to, and thus neither do most golfers: grip size. There are much more precise sizes to make grips other than just standard, midsize, oversize and junior/ladies. When we fit for grips in our shop, we use a range of 15 sizes that vary by 1/64". I was taught that a golfer's proper grip size is that which is thin enough to allow their top hand to grip the club through their fingers and not their palm, but thick enough to prevent the palm from overlapping the fingers. This is because a proper golf grip is through the fingers of the top hand where the non-muscular hand ligaments can lock around and create very stable club contact and control. This allows the golfer to achieve a good firm grip while the arm muscles remain relaxed and their upper body less rigid, so they can make a more athletic swing and freely set their wrist at the top and rotate their hands through the ball. In contrast, a grip size that's too thick forces the grip to go through the golfer's palm instead of their fingers, and this causes them to have to tense their arm and wrist to create contact and control over the club. This tensing of the muscles causes the upper body to be much more rigid, which makes it more difficult to perform an athletic swing and set their wrist at the top. Also, the tense arm muscles cause the vibrations from making contact with the ball that travel up the shaft to then travel up their arm and into the tendons of their elbow, which can cause or aggravate issues like tendonitis over time. The three things that relate to proper grip size are finger length, palm length, and hand girth. This third factor is just as important as the first two, but I never hear it addressed outside of our shop. The girth or meatiness of the hand is very important because if a person has a beefy hand then when they close into a fist the meat of their hand fills up the space inside, and such a person would thus need a thinner grip than another person with the same sized fingers/palm but less hand girth. In contrast, a person with little hand girth needs a thicker grip because they don't have a beefy hand that fills up the space inside their fist. Proper grip size has absolutely nothing to do with strength or level of play, it is the size which is thin enough to allow a person to grip the club through their fingers with their top hand, but thick enough to prevent the palm from overlapping. The +4 concept has been around for a long time, and that is a matter of preference which relates to a golfer's bottom hand and not the top. Some golfers dislike the taper aspect of most grips and prefer it thicker under their bottom hand instead of thinner. If the part of the grip under the bottom hand is thicker then this also facilitates a less tense grip with more freedom of movement in the wrist. Some golfers prefer this because it helps prevent tenseness and rigidity, and some prefer it because they simply think it's more comfortable. Either way, this is a perfectly fine option for those who prefer it, provided that they have the proper grip size under their top hand. Another aspect of grips that I find interesting is inner diameter or ID. Grips have ID identifiers on the inside of the mouth of the grip, like "M58R" or "M60R". These indicate the shaft butt size for which this grip was designed. For instance, an iron shaft with a butt diameter of .600 would use an M60R to create a standard sized grip, an iron shaft with a butt diameter that's .580 would use an M58R to create a standard sized grip. However, if an M58R were to be installed on a shaft with a .600 butt diameter it would create a +1/64" over standard grip size, and if an M60R were installed on a .580 butt it would create a -1/64" under standard grip size. All of this isn't to say that all good golfers only use their proper sized grips, on the contrary there are many golfers out there who have incorrect grip sizes but are very good players. However, these examples are golfers who are talented enough or good enough athletes to overcome the issues they may be experiencing due to incorrect grip size and are still able to make it work and perform at a high level, it is not that their incorrect grip size is actually causing them to be a better golfer. In general, it is a much better idea for golfers to use their correct grip size and then modify things based on their own preferences as they determine what those are.

fairway woods: -Grandista RS-F 15° -Epon AF-203 15° -Modart MA01F 14° -OnOff '17 Kuro 15° also, if I had to pick one FW that I'd like to try most right now it'd be the Baldo TTX 14.5°

Crazy CRZ-Tour wedge SDJ 115 Proto Seven ST (1st or 2nd gen) CGS Orion SPY-1 ProSpec PRGR iD nabla Tour wedge Kyoei Tour wedge If you’re interested in a wedge that spins like the Raw Gekku but doesn’t chew up the ball, then the S-Yard Bold is one of the closest. The Gekku is non-conforming though, and the Bold is conforming, so it won’t be AS much spin but close

http://blog.tourspecgolf.com/miura-giken-tb-zero-iron/

damn I was not aware that they stopped doing mods of other branded putters.. I'd been thinking of sending them either my SeeMore or my Seven for a while, guess I thought about it for too long

I may have seen a set but I'm not actually positive.. my shop has a customer who's constantly giving us really high end JDM clubs to build for him. Right before we had to close due to the virus we'd had two sets of his irons at the shop to be rebuilt, one was a set of OnOff LaboSpec MB-247D's and the other was a set of brand new Miura irons that I couldn't identify the model of because they were customized. Where the model name would usually be (back of the face down near the top line towards the hosel) there was a Japanese symbol instead of a model name in English. I do not know if they were the TB-Zero's, but I don't think they were the MB-101's and I'm pretty sure they were not any of the older models because, to what Stu was saying about the PW shape, I really did like the shape of this PW it did not look really blocky and shovel-like to me.

CGS Orion has the Himeji x Tsubame MBs (I think that’s what they’re called) which are S15C.. I think there’s also a recent MB which uses it too, but in general you are correct there’s pretty much none with the exception of those two or three that I can think of

I was curious about what the spread of ages would be like if a bunch of golfers were to list their top 3 drivers of all time. Along those same lines, I'm even more curious as to what the spread of ages might look like if a bunch of golfers list their top 3 putters of all time. I feel like putter designs stay relevant for longer than other types of clubs, and when a golfer finds a putter they like then they're more likely to keep it for longer as well. So, more than any other type of club I feel like putters are the most likely to have the widest range of ages. Also, there are so many different and unique putter designs I feel like the variety will also be very interesting. This post is to list your top 3 favorite putters of all time. They can be any type of putters: blade, mallet, steel, wooden, etc. Feel free to include a description of why it's your favorite and/or some pics. My top 3 putters: Epon I-33 (2nd Gen) Seven Type-SH (1st run blank sole version) SeeMore - Nashville Studio Series - Tour FGPss Epon I-33 (2nd Gen) - love everything about this putter: the shape, the balance @ 33 1/4", the look of the mirror blank sole, the face milling, the sweet feel of milled S20C, etc. I bought this putter from one of the many great forum members on here and it hasn't left my bag since I got it. Seven Type-SH - this is a great putter. The SM490A material that it's made from has a super unique feel to it, and combined with the super deep face mill pattern it feels very nice. It's solid but not harsh and soft but not mushy. The lines and angles of the head frame the ball very nicely and make it very easy to aim. I'm also a big fan of its shorter heel to toe length, I don't like big putter heads. SeeMore Nashville Studio Tour FGPss - if I could get this putter head to be heavy enough to reach an ideal swing weight at 33" then this would definitely be my ultimate go-to putter. I've always been a big fan of the SeeMore "hide the red dot" concept, I'm not going to claim that it's some revolutionary design feature but I just know that it works very well for me and allows me to be very comfortable over putts of any length. When I use this putter I tend to hit my intended line very consistently. The only issue for me is that it's I think only around a 235-240g head because it's designed to be used at 35", so since I use it at 33" I have a more difficult time controlling distance because the putter head is still a bit too light despite all the lead tape I've applied. I need to add lead into the tip I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Honorable mentions: Piretti Cortino 2 Rev2.0 Yamada Milled Borzov Piretti Cortino 2 Rev2.0 - this is a great putter. It's milled from a very nice feeling 11L17 carbon steel with a moderately deep milled face. It's a hair longer heel to toe than what I typically prefer, but the overall shape is so nice it truly doesn't faze me. I also very much like it's only 1/2-3/4 shaft offset as opposed to a whole shaft offset. Yamada Milled Borzov - this is a very interesting putter design. The shape is different for me because I usually prefer blade style putters since I don't aim mallets well. I really like this though because 1. the carbon steel that Yamada uses to make his putter heads feels phenomenal; 2. the head weight creates perfect balance with a 33" putter; 3. the way the weight is distributed facilitates a very smooth straight back and straight through stroke.

I know DOCUS has made high quality products for a while, but for whatever reason the aesthetics of their clubs never really appealed to me. This has changed as of the release of the new Limited Edition MB, CB and wedge. These clubs look awesome. Here we have the Haraken Docus Japan Forged Limited Edition series featuring forged MB irons, forged CB irons and forged wedges. Docus Japan Forged MB Iron – Limited Edition – The MB iron is a muscle back made of S15C carbon steel. Contrary to its compact and sharp looks, it pursues both distance and forgiveness at a very high level. By taking off some weight from the top section of the back, it is designed to lower the CG location for easier launch of the ball. These beauties are made In Japan. Docus Japan Forged CB Iron – Limited Edition – The CB iron is a forged cavity back designed for easy distance. It is a mid-size cavity back design made of SS400 forged carbon steel. In spite of the slightly larger head size, the overall profile appears to be sharp thanks to the unique neck shape. Docus Japan Forged Wedge – Limited Edition – The wedge is made of S15C carbon steel and designed to keep the ball on the face a fraction longer, which helps generate excellent spin performance. It directly inherits the shape and design of one of its most popular predecessors, the DOCUS 701 wedge. The semi-straight hosel with minimum offset should allow for very high consistency on approach shots from around the greens. I really really like the looks of all three of these new clubs. I like that they don't use any paintfill, I like that the materials are s15c and SS400 just like my Seven x Shinagawa irons and ST wedges, and I absolutely LOVE the very compact look of the MB. At first glance these look like special clubs.

What kind of wedge is that??

Wow that is impressive, WD40 who woulda thought. We use naphtha at the shop to clean our grips, that also works well.