Goodsie

100 rocks, huh, I mean range balls. Hit from a mat?? The Tips on Quadra Shafts are "thin wall" tips with glass in them. The Tips are very strong laterally but very suspect on the longitude plane. Every exotic Shaft that comes through my shop gets a "Do's and Don'ts" insert sheet to help prevent putting any pressure on the Tip. Where your Shaft sheared off has the fingerprint of longitude failure. That small layer of graphite sticking out sends a signal that the Shaft may have twisted a bit while still hot. Final rant.....mats do not belong in Golf......period.

One word can describe the performance of the Geotech W-213T Wedge....Awesome! I found this Wedge to be a real performer for me because of the compact head design and the proper placement of the Center of Gravity to better control the trajectory. One small tweak that premier design engineer Tado - san did was to design a hosel that is slightly ridged from the face and 1/2 way up the long hosel. These ridges are positioned down the target line and seem to give the face stability when hitting down on the ball from a tight lie. These ridges are a first that I can remember but make perfect sense when hitting precision shots to reduce any torque of the head itself. I am looking forward to more uses of this neat hosel design tweak by Tado - san. The use of S15C in this forging is remarkable and feels soft yet responsive. It will be interesting to see how well it wears from heavy use. The sole is well thought out, as well, with the Special Grind to make this a very versatile shot maker. I used an 8 Iron Shaft to further enhance the control of the trajectory and control of those "less" than full Wedge shots. The W-213T really seems to like the combo by helping me pinch the ball for distance control and spin. Geotech has another winner with the W-213T Wedge.

I just PM'ed Tatsura ordering this great looking Wedge. I have been a Geotech user for many years and love their stuff....this terrific deal offered by Chris is just too good to pass up, so I would contact Tatsura ASAP.....you won't be disappointed.

Ease on over to the Geotech Wedge listings in the Pro Shop. You will find a slew of "U" Groove Wedges that rank with the best in spin and playability. All at very reasonable prices for forged heads that will leave you with a pocket full of money to spend on putting great Shafts in the Geotech Wedges. Geotech is still a well kept secret around these parts but their stuff is truly great.

The DI Shaft is a high launch Shaft by design. The BB Shaft will launch lower with a less spin rate and a good roll out. BUT, the best Shaft for low launch, outstanding dispersion, low spin and it feels good too, is the Graphite Design 9003 Series. I found the" P9003x" was the best of all the 9003 Series Shafts and it does not feel like an "X" at all. Smooth, long and deadly accurate with a penetrating ball flight. The P9003x is a venerable warrior that has been a winning Shaft for several TSG'ers and some PGA Tour Players. The PGA Tour thing is just a " throw in" as there is so much money thrown at those guys they would play with a broom stick shaft for the $$$$ but we can choose our own shot result orientated Shaft. Couple the P9003x with low spin rate ball and you can tear the ears off a rabbit at 150 yards...further, the P9003x does not balloon even into the wind and that I can verify as I live in Texas where the wind is always a factor.... Most of the modern Driver heads today are designed to launch high, then couple that with a high launch Shaft and moon shots are not out of the question, so the GD "BB" Series, the MD-7x and the winner P9003x are three low launch Shafts that sparkle.

Adjustable weights in Iron heads...interesting. Something "new".....well, not quite. I gamed a set of Titleist Irons 44 years ago that had the same type of weighting system by using disks underneath the two screw caps that gave you a huge number of tuning options. Titleist gave you a wrench and extra tungsten weight disks when you bought the set. Wore that set out (down to the copper) and couldn't find another set.....Non-Internet days, etc back then,.so many visits were made to all neighboring Golf Shops in the search but came up empty.....moved on......but I remember those Titleist very well.

Purpose built Wedge Shafts are tuned to handle little flip shots, bunker play and lofted pitch shots from around the green AND they do this very well. Now consider this.....when you hit most of your Wedge approach shots from the Fairway/Rough, I suggest that you buy a 8 Iron or 9 Iron Shaft to put in your Wedges. This little tweak might surprise you with very controlled (non-ballooning or too high launch) shots while offering tight dispersion and feel. The wonderful sole designs of today's Wedges will definitely take advantage of using a 8 or 9 Iron Shaft. Makes sense when you think about it....All of my Wedges are built and tuned this way and have become a strong and confident part of my game.

KBS Tour Wedge Shaft. One of the best Wedge Shafts around and they come in .370 tips.

Unfortunately, the DG Spinner Shaft only comes with a .355 (Tapered) Tip. You would have to use a shim to properly fit the DG Spinner in the Geotech Wedge.

Geotech Wedges have a .370 (parallel) hosel size.

Try Cell-Parts.net. Always excellent quality and color choices.

I have a master Club Refinisher that I use here at the Divot Doctor's Place. He can turn it around pretty fast....finish will be like new. PM me if interested and I will be glad to handle for you.

Fake Clubs come through my Shop more often now than ever before. This "counterfeit aspect" of Internet Golf sales really make me angry. Fake Graphite Shafts are even more prevalent now that the Exotic Shaft prices have gotten up in the $300 to $800 range. The money to be made only draws the "evil doer's" when the Shaft you are getting might cost the bad guy $8 to $20..........Also, beware of the Fake Iron Shafts, too. All they have to do is print those cute little Shaft labels and sell a blow out set of cow patties. Never buy on the Internet after a six pack of beer or two glasses of wine or whatever....

Only butt trim needed. Hybrid Shafts are designed for Hybrids and usually there is only 2.5 inches of butt trim for a full bag of Hybrids anyway....which in the scheme of things is not much to take off of the butt section. If at all possible, leave those wonderfully engineered tips alone and you will be a shot making maniac.

You have been missed, so this is a good thing!!

A One Inch tip cut on a Crazy or a Quadra is nuts!! When you get out the saw and cut off 30% of a very well engineered tip is actually detuning the Shaft. The tips on both Crazy/Quadra make these wonderful Shafts really perform as designed.....then you spend big $$$$$ and then detune the Shaft by tipping. That's CRAZY!! Both Crazy/Quadra Shaft Companies have a huge selection of Shafts to choose from that can match your needs.

Aaaah, don't forget the Miura Precious 390 Driver. A proven winner and has a long history of success. Suited up, the Precious Head is very stable, keeps the ball down and has a great pear shape to it. Oldies rock!!

Take a good long look at a Cleveland CG15. A Green Grabber for sure IMO, but you really can't go wrong with the Sky Dream Jump Wedges....these Wedges have performed and are the top gamer Wedges for quite a few of our TSG brethern. Don't overlook some of the spin monsters in the Geotech line also.

This is a Notice that I now include with all Graphite Shafts when they leave the Shop but its mainly directed to the Shafts with Glass Particles in the Tip Section. Divot Doctor's "Do's and Don'ts" for Graphite Shafts. 1. Don't use the Shaft as a Cane or a Prop when bending over to Tee Up. 2. Don't be a "Club Thumper" when in your Pre Shot Routine or when you don't hit an ideal Tee ball. 3. Be especially careful when loading your Clubs in the Boot or Trunk as the long Driver Shaft may hit the side of the Trunk and damage the Tip Section. Same care is necessary when Unloading your Clubs also. 4. Don't hit Graphite Shafts (especially the Exotics) off of Synthetic Mats as most of these Mats are on top of Asphalt bases and are not very forgiving and can cause Tip damage if you Fat one. 5. When traveling (airlines, mainly), get yourself a "hard" travel bag for your Clubs. Often, I turn my Driver, 3 Wood upside down in the Bag before packing but that doesn't always keep the Airline personnel from trying new torture tests for your Golf Clubs.

Just as a point of interest on the early days of Graphite Irons Shafts.....If the inside of the upper lip of the hosel was not beveled properly, the Shaft had a tendency to get eaten into by the sharp edge of the hosel and breaking down the Carbon layers which eventually would snap. It really wasn't the fault of the Graphite Shaft but more of a design and assembly deficiency by the OEM. Early day hosels in Irons were flat at the top and ended up being a big "NoNo" for Graphite Iron Shafts. Now all hosels are beveled and the problem has mainly disappeared for Graphite Iron Shafts. Graphite Shafts, in general, are very strong in the lateral plane but are suspect in the vertical plane. Even most of this has been corrected with a stronger tube on which the carbon sheets are placed. But, your point about more glass being introduced into the tip section is definitely a good one and is changing the landscape again by these exotic big " Ton" Graphite Shafts and their fragile nature.

Not only no Flat Screens but no scrub sink and Lab coat closet. Pretty sterile looking as presented. With a different colored wall or two and I could be right at home in such luxury.

Interesting Post about Graphite Shafts being so consistent from one Shaft to the other versus Steel, I only ask Mjr. "D" to chime in and tell everyone about the registration of the label on his Program 130's in his AF302's. Very few of the label's are in the same position in each Club when "Tuned", thus the statement that Graphite Iron Shafts can be made to be the same is not totally accurate. Each and every Shaft, whether it be Steel or Graphite has its own "fingerprint" which is not consistent from one Shaft to the other even by the same Manufacturer. Paint jobs (Shaft labels) do not reflect the true bend/torque properties of each Shaft...it is just paint. I have been "Tuning Shafts" for a long time (Pure/FLO) and have yet to find two Shafts, of either Steel or Graphite, made by the same OEM that comes out in the same place each time. Hand rolled Shafts made by the best Craftsmen in the world can't possibly make each Shaft they make the same. Machine rolled Shafts should come closer to being the same but just aren't due to varying thicknesses of the carbon sheets, weight differences, etc. I am not beating a drum for Steel over Graphite Shafts, it just that Graphite isn't quite there yet versus Steel. Now don't think that the leading Steel Shaft manufacturer's are just sitting around the Office eating BonBons, as they are not. They are trying every day to improve their manufacturing technology to put out a better product. We can only look at the huge inroads that Nippon and FST (KBS Tour, Super Peening) have made in their manufacturing processes to turn out some of the highest quality Steel Shafts man has ever seen. This whole Steel versus Graphite race will be fun to watch as both camps develop better products and WE, the Golfer, can only win as we will be able to play absolutely terrific Shafts as a result no matter what we chose to put in our Clubs.

FYI. Feedback from my Players who have tried this Shaft.....poor dispersion results and ballooning in windy conditions.....most Shafts were X Flex. Felt great at impact in the hands and all that stuff, but favorable results questionable.

Nope, didn't bend the head as the setup was just fine....the longer shaft didn't "toe it up" in the least and the Swing Weight moved up to a D4 which is still in my sweet spot. Actually, this thing just fell together for me with no tweaking necessary. Easy as pie......Cured it out, a little spit and spittle and out the door she went.

Yep, "C"....still using the PNT you sent me....its a solid gamer at 41". The 16* Adams I am using in the 3 Wood Hybrid is the Tour Prototype or PNT II as some call it. My experience with the 16* Hybrid was outstanding. It was longer than the 3 Wood...much easier to control. The 3 Wood Hybrid (at 43.25") did launch the ball higher than my J33 15* 3 Wood but did not balloon as I have put an old Diamana Whiteboard in it....all Tuned up, of course. This Hybrid configuration is something that is becoming more prevalent now a days and thought I would share with our fellow TSG'ers.