Shankopotamus

Are the Labo Specs forged also? How much of a sacrifice on feel? In the area of forgiveness, are the Labo Specs similar to the Epon 502s or the 702s? And yes, I shall wait for your review before I make my final decision and purchase.

I was dead set on getting the Miura PP-9003s. But now I am leaning on making an endo purchase. I'm interested in the Epons and the new Onoff offering. Could you guys chime in regarding the feel and forgiveness of these irons? I'm being extremely fickle, even hesitant, in making my decision b/c I can't actually demo any of these clubs before making my actual purchase, and I do not have the financial resources to constantly buy and resell clubs if they don't suit me. Also, what other endo offerings (forgiving) would you recommend? Help me be a man and make a decision already!

Chris, in that top picture, which head is that all the way on the right? It has a darker finish.

Comparing these pics to the ones in the proshop, these look like the "round" heads. And I think I do like the softer look of the more rounded shape.

So what's your decision on the depth of the face? Is it deeper than what you're used to?

Well, I'm glad to hear that Miura still well touted. I was obviously asking about Miura, and specifically about the pp-9003s, because I'm in the market for new irons, but I feel like much of the stuff in the proshop is geared toward the better player or "mid capper to better player". My index is around a 10, so I need something more forgiving then most of the stuff I read about here on the forums or the blog. Similar to Gocchin, I don't live in fantasy land and try to hit clubs that I don't have the game for. But I'm sure that you guys can make some suggestions for a more forgiving forged iron set. So, based on personal experience, what would you guys suggest.

Hey, guys. With all these wonderful and beautiful JDM forged iron sets that have been released over these recent years, does Miura still get respect as great forged irons? Also, has the pp-9003 been out long enough for anyone to give a standing review, specifically comparing it to the pp-9001 that was released a few years ago. I'm thinking of making a purchase through the shop within the next couple of weeks, but there's a slight difference in price, and I'd like to know if there's a significant benefits to getting the 9003 over the 9001. If they play similar in forgiveness, might as well save that money to go towards another driver. Thanks.

Great review, Stew. I'm really tempted to make a move on that 610h.

Okay, thanks for your advice guys. Spoon, I'm only looking to go from reg to firm, not reg to stiff. You think 1/2" will get that for me w/o screwing up the profile?

Wow, your response totally melted mine. Great visualization as I was reading your post. I'm going to go put my sand wedge on the kitchen counter now.

Any disadvantages?

I've read various opinions on the outcome of what tip trimming a shaft and adding a butt extension will do to the overall stiffness and swing weight of the shaft. Now, to me, what makes sense is... tip trimming will make the shaft play stiffer, and adding a butt extension of the same length will add a similar amount of weight back to the shaft, maintaining the swing weight, while also rebalancing the shaft to its original balance point. Actually, I'm kind of blowing smoke about that last part regarding the balance point. If I'm right about that, I just got lucky. I'm bringing this up, b/c I am playing an 'ilima 60S in my driver right now, but I'm thinking about getting the same shaft in regular flex and tip trimming it to a firm flex. The shaft that I have my eye is used and pulled. I'd probably have to add an extension in the butt to get it back to my preferred length. Someone please, please, please let me know if I've done the right research or if I'm wrong and I'm going to completely screw up the feel, kick, balance, swing weight, and stiffness of this shaft if I do this. Lastly, if I am actually able to get a pulled 'ilima 60R that's already been cut to length but not tip trimmed, how much will I have to tip trim it to get it to play to a firm flex, maybe 1/2 inch? I have an Epon Af-101 head. Thanks, guys.

What's the advantage or (disadvantage) of these shafts, like aerotech players spec or ns 999, over traditional constant weight?

I don't know either. I'm so lost, haha. That's a good question you raise though, Eca. As far as the practicality of grinding a wedge, I'm pretty sure that the wider the sole, which would naturally offer more bounce, the more aggressively you could apply a grind and give yourself a lot more heel/toe relief and even trailing edge relief. With thinner soles, I'm guessing you can't be as aggressive with a grind b/c the bounce would be naturally lower already. So you can essentially take a wider sole, grind away the toe and heel for some versatility with different lies, but not do too much with the middle of the sole, which would still give you the necessary bounce for sand shots. Please keep in mind that I'm totally a newbie and have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm just speaking from what sort of makes sense to me, but if you ask my wife, I'm not all that sensible.

I've read the reviews on the suggested RC and Yamaha wedges. They sound like really great wedges. I have some concerns with both of them though. With the combination of lofts that I play, if I bend the RC in either the 56 or 58 in order to get my desired 57, the bounce is either too much (with bending the 56) or too littlle (with bending the 58). With the Yamaha, with the pics that I've seen, it doesn't really look like I'd be able to open up the face for those tricky pop and stop shots. What do you guys think? Also, what do you guys think about the Kenmochi black wedges and Yururi Tour wedges? Both of those offerings seem to have more loft options to customize a wedge set.

If I get set up with one of the wedges you have suggested, will installing dg spinner shafts end up making the wedges either 1) launch too low for me, or 2) go nowhere b/c I use 95g shafts in my irons and am not used to 124g shafts?

I know, I know. There is a wedge post just below mine of someone else asking for help. But hey, I need help too. Basically, I'm going to treat myself to a set of wedges. I play 51/57, bending a 52 or even a 53 to lower the bounce (I'm a picker/sweeper) and playing a 57 (like my vega rafw-03), or having to bend a 56 or 58 (depending on the original bounce of the wedge). I just recently moved out to the Midwest from NJ and am unfamiliar with the turf conditions out here as of yet. From what I've heard, the fairways are not super tight. Most of the better public courses out here seem to use zoysia grass. And I'll be traveling back and forth to NJ, so I might want something that offers versatile turf interaction. But I'm not so concerned about the type of turf as I am the constant 10-15 mph winds in the Midwest. Also, I currently play with Miura MC-101s. I picked them up about 1 1/2 years ago, but honestly, only did it b/c I got such a good deal on them. I think I got lucky though b/c the grind on those irons seem to work out with my swing. Anyways, I'd like a wedge that would be a good transition into my Miuras. Also, I've lost a good amount of power and distance over that last few years due to some back and flexibility issues. So my irons have 95g aerotech graphite shafts, which are good b/c they are mid kick, but I'm still concerned with getting the ball up too high with all the wind. Would a wedge with a slightly higher CG help? I don't know. Well, I've given you guys as much information, which I thought might be useful, as I could. I know there's like a gazillion wedges on the market, but given the info above, if you guys could make some expert opinions, I'd really, really appreciate it. Oh, and by the way, please don't suggest the RC db protos... I can't afford those beauties...I sooooo wish I could, but I can't. I am very budget conscious. Thanks, guys!

Great, thanks for the clarification, Tsg. I'll be looking for that post.

I know that the cb-1005s are an older production, but does anyone remember how the sole grind differ from the more recent cb-202? It miuragolf site says that the newer sole grind is better for play in north america and "increases playability". What does that mean?

New. Thanks for the question.

Title says it all. $650 shafted / $550 head alone. Also willing to trade so please send offers. Thanks.