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Indeed the 580XD is 440CC other than that, the above description is very true. Are you a good player with a consistent swing? Then you can pull off the R510. The R510TP is sweet, reminds me of the Titleist 983E. Pretty to look at and even better ball flight. Some people love the heck out of it. I believe it comes with a pretty heavy Speeder shaft and is not the easiest club (imo). The R540 is more shallow, wider. The 580XD is on super sale around the world (for $200.00). I've hit it and I liked it. At that price it's tough not to consider one. Look at Taylor Made's website under Vintage Clubs here: http://www.taylormadegolf.com/global/servi...intSpecs_04.asp Look at the shafts etc. Unfortunately TM does not offer whether a driver is square, open or closed. Go to a local store and beat the heck out of them. Perhaps the R580XD is the ticket. Good luck.

Junior, I will leave this up to the many professionals on this site who build clubs. I am glad to see you with a regular flex, when I was between 10-15 yrs of age I had a persimmon driver (~170cc?) and it had an aluminum shaft!! It had to be from the late 1960's. I was pumped when I could feel that shaft load up and flex. What I can offer is a bore-through, by it's physical design, should play a tad stiffer than a non bore-through. That axis, that point is where the rotational forces occur. Think of a hinge as a shaft and the club head as the door. Bore-through makes the club (imo) play a wee bit stiffer. So...if you are looking for a new shaft, take everything into consideration. When I was 12 I took a hack saw and cut down the aluminum shaft (don't try it). It was too long. You are spoiled with the thousands of shafts available. The grafalloy Pro Launch in R might be great for you. Keep swinging and good luck.

http://www.3m.com/us/home_leisure/scotchbr..._scouring.jhtml That is what I use every now and again on my irons/wedges. I have satin finish as well and I would not use steel wool, I think it's too abbrasive. If you want your stain wedges to rust, then taking the finish off will do it. The 3M Scotchbrite (I am not a big fan of the Scotch at this point due to JBoy) pads were recommended to me from an oldtimer. Even the 3M Scotchbrite will dullen the satin gloss so I use Noxon (see below). I use a tooth brush to get in the grooves afterwards. I finish with a nice polish with Noxon... http://www.instawares.com/Noxon-7-Metal-Po...00117RC.0.7.htm Eleven clubs...takes a while but it is worth it. I use some car polish on the driver and 3 wood. The putter gets baby oil every now and again. Karma. Take care of the clubs and they take care of you. Put the SOS Steel wool away, save that for your dishes and good luck!

Also, fat wedges...you are probably getting too steep on your downswing. DO you hit fat with 3-PW? WHy just the wedges? They are the shortest clubs which lend to a more upright swing, perhaps you are too steep on the way down, not sweeping, but picking fat. Lastly wedge shots are by nature somewhat fat in that you should take divots.

Indeed, his left shoulder falls downward, it is a fake shoulder turn. It feels like a shoulder turn but you are correct, on video you will see that the axis of the shoulder has not turned away from the ball at all(for a right handed golfer, his left shoulder should be over his right knee or beyond at the completion of the backswing). Many years ago my pro simply told me, "Get your left shoulder over your right knee." Bam, done. It felt weird but it is correct. With a fake shoulder turn (drop)...on the downswing you are forced to lift upwards or else you hit a fat shot. There is also a lifting to create space for the hands as well as to create inertia/club head speed too. Teachers stand in front of you and they hold the butt end of a club on your forehead while you swing, a good drill. Another great tool is the swing mirror. Put it in front of you while you swing. Watch Olympic Sprinters...when they run (the best ones who finish first) their eyes are on the same level and plane, no up and down movement at all, head's still, just legs pumping all out. If they can do it at full-human speed, you can with an 8 iron too!

I totally agree with Hoover, decel is cancer to me. Commit to the shot, don't take a full turn back and then decel into it! Dial-in 70 yards at the range by taking the club half way back (or whatever works for you) and accelerate at impact. Golden Rule, accelerate through impact. Also...are you moving up and down? Head stays still on a horizontal plane. Lastly, put that ball back in your stance and hit da ball man. Ball first then grass. Good luck. PS. I just shoveled 15" of snow so anyone who is playing today, don't get bent out of shape if you hit a fat shot!!!

I totally agree with 997777 above. Torque is defined as just that, the ability for the lower portion of the shaft to twist or rotate under load. It really affects feel. Kickpoint and weight are also huge factors. Read this link: http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:hCJeg_F...olf+shaft&hl=en I have a smoother swing, less violent from the top and benefit from a mid-torque shaft. In fact, it really comes to 'feel'. The first thing I do when I pick up a new driver off the shelf is grip it and waggle it very quickly at address, a foot forward and back. Bam. Right there you can feel not just the flex and weight of the shaft, but the torque too. I know (and I am honest with myself) if it is too stiff, too heavy and really firm the last 6" above the hosel. I am stuck right now, looking at the Cobra 440SZ, it comes with a Graphite Design YS-5.1 with a low/mid kick point and 5* of torque OR the Cobra 450SZ Tour which comes with a Penley ETA 65, high kickpoint blah blah. Yep, I can re-shaft them, but the last stock Cobra I had (350 series) was just awesome. Anyone have any feelings about the Cobras???

Great pic. Really tough/impossible to make out topline or offset but it's the first pic I've seen. Thanks!

I am confused with your 'Two-ball' drill. If you place ball 'A' down, then ball 'B' three inches behind ball 'A'...take your stance using ball 'A' as the real ball to strike and do so while trying to avoid ball 'B'....is this your drill? If so, this would only make him swing steeper, IMO. If he is an up/down flipper who rises at impact, then the drill above would make him worse. Flipping is created by an inabilityto maintain true wrist cock during the first move of the downswing. I could see if you place a nickel or dime 3-5" IN FRONT of the ball to strike and ask him to make the nickel move after impact. That's a good drill but meaningless unless he addresses the root cause: casting from the top, losing wrist cock. The flaw he mentions is that he rises upwards at impact...he's actually/probably rising before impact. There is the true 2 ball drill to create a more shallow swing, where you place on an 45* angle inches from the striking ball (but not right behind it). We may never know why he rises at impact but looking at swing plane/casting, although on the list of flaws, would be further down from simply adising him to not pick up is head one iota (as one fellow offered). That's enough cough syrup, as Harvey Penick might say. The visuals I offered (above) work too! Good luck.

Long putts...laggin' up there. Most golfers putt using a dominant hand (wrist). Nicklaus said he putted mainly with his right hand. As I am left hand low, it is the front of my left wrist which does the through-swing and dominates my putting period... Long putts that need to lagged up there, I use my right inner hand to take over/dominate the through-swing and push that ball.

I agree with the gentleman above who simply states, "I try not to let my head come up." Agreed. Another fellow offered a drill using balls. Drills work sometimes...other times it is visuals that work. Like when your left writst cups in the top of the backswing and your pro tells you to pretend you are a waiter, holding a tray...let the right wrist fold etc etc. With rising on the downswing try three things. I am 6' tall, in golf set-up I might be 5'9", correct? I pretended during my swing that I am in a room and the ceiling is 5'9". Second visual, pretend there are razor blades pointing downwards from that ceiling. If your head as so much rises, you will cut yourself to shreds. The third thing I'd do is videotape myself (camera on ground in front of your chest shot). Tape ten swings your way, tape ten using the two visuals and then go home and play the tape. Watch your golf cap, does it rise? Put a piece of masking tape on the tv screen at the top of your head at address, does the head rise and fall? If so, the tape will tell. Laslty, you are rising oout of your swing. A videotape from a different angle (from behind) ought to show if your knees are straightening or if it is from your spine.

Hey, nice irons but even nicer...check out his sweet Dyson Vacuum cleaner!!! That vacumm is more expensive than most drivers! :cool:

Question...just picked up a used set of irons that came with True Temper DGS300U. I have never used this shaft, 'Unitized'. Can someone offer the changes it creates to a set? I typically use DGS300 (no 'U' for Unitized). Thanks.

I am told that the new Titileist CB's are essentially the right-handed Phil Mickelson iron set. My source is usually correct, we will soon see. Speaking of Titleist...which you you choose if you had a choice and why: 1). Titleist 704CB 2). Srixon I-302 3). The new Nike CBs (look sweet) not yet released? Is the I-302 a larger head than the 704CB? Looks like it. 4). Bonus question: How hot is Michelle Wie gonna be???

Kurt, http://www.golfonline.com/golfonline/instr...,634482,00.html Check this out.....

Thanks! Any chance they can be ordered with traditional ferrules? Even Ping smartened up with their S59.

Kurt, You mention that you are trying to stay behind the ball at impact... I wonder more importantly where your hands (wrists) are on the downswing. You say you are hitting low shots, if you're right handed I bet you are hitting draws. Anyway, I bet you not only slide with the lower body but you are also casting with your wrists from the top. If your lower body loses it's place and tension (slide), the upper body must release too. I fought (we all did at one point) the downhill slide. My pro looked at my loss of wrist cock on the way down, we worked on it/ focused on that and presto magico, the slide was lessened by 95%. Focusing on downswing (the first move) wrist cock 'tightened' me up. Also: Pretend there is a knife pointing at your leading hip, let it unwind, not slide OR: stare at Retief Gossen in Golf Digest for 8 hours a day. Good luck - Keith