donnieu

Great looking irons. Are you sure those are hollow? This web site lists the 2001 Speed 905 as hollow, but does not mention hollow for the 2001 Speed 901, or 2001 Speed 900TR. http://www.prgrkorea.com/archive_clubs/

Added another driver to the rotation: Emillid Bahama EB-33 https://gp-golf.com/products/311.html Web page describes it as high MOI for high trajectory and highly straight. Mine is a 10.5 loft which I bought mainly for the stiff white Royal Decoration La Bomba shaft that was on it. But after a couple of test rounds, it is a contender. Trajectory doesn't seem any higher than usual. When I take a smooth swing, and not try to kill it, this combo does give fairly straight, long, and high results with decent forgiveness at 460cc. EB drivers are on the Grand Prix web site, so I assume they must be another line of Grand Prix. Web site gives no info on head composition. This one has just a very slight bit of the hollow feel, with face look & feel similar to the Grand Prix G57. EB-33 has 5 small removable screws in the front and 3 larger removable screws. The 5 small screws were all 0.6g, one had some glue on it, so not sure if they were supposed to be fixed screws. The larger screw on the heel was 3g (which I moved to the toe) and other larger ones on toe and back were 1.3g. I don't expect those small weights to make much difference.

I hit the 5I about same distance as yours. I just picked up recent Honma TW-U 21,24,27. They are easier to hit than they look, but not quite as easy as the previous model. My 27 goes about 5I distance. I shafted these with the IB95 stiff shafts from the previous model, as they worked great for me. Also have an older Honma TW737 U19 utility wood with the IB105U stiff shaft. An easy hybrid to hit, nice club.

2014 http://www.basileus.co.jp/products/aaa2014.php 2015 https://blog.tourspecgolf.com/basileus-2015-aaa-shaft-almost-sold-out/

After a winter swing change, my old Baldo driver/shaft combo of last 2 years seemed to have lost its magic. So I have been shopping new heads/shafts. I played a Grand Prix G57 for a few months. Very long, but feel was not as good as I would like. Decided to try a few more Grand Prix drivers, so I picked up 3 used ones for testing. After a quick range test with 5 balls each my initial favorite was the GP 435V. A different look with 12 groove lines, 4mm apart. The best looking of the 3. A firm, harder feeling clubface, which I actually liked. However seemed to have a fade bias with the first 2 shafts I tried. Will try with one more shaft. After one round on the course with each, the favorite was now the GP D63 model. Deepest face (I measure it at 59mm) but from address it doesn't look like other deep face drivers. A fairly normal look. Most players might probably consider the D63 to have a perfect feel (no ding, no thump, not too hard, not too soft, just right). Great distance on all 3 of these heads, so the best shaft fit would probably be the deciding factor. After a few rounds with each, I switched my best shaft to the GP DS model. Feel is excellent, maybe not quite as perfect as the D63 but very close. Results were excellent. Many drives straight down the middle. Shaft I I am using is the Basileus AAA, 2014 model (50S, 59g 2.8T full length 80T). I would like to try the AAA on the D63 to compare, but I am hitting this combo so good, I don't want to touch it. There are no lofts listed on these heads, but sellers said the DS and D63 were 10.5 loft. Both play more like 9.5 or 10. 435V seems to launch a little higher. Pictures available on the gp-golf web site: https://www.gp-golf.com/products_driver.html

I have Yamaha X V Forged 2011 with Fubuki i375 stiff shafts.

Baldo 8C Craft Forged S20C http://blog.tourspecgolf.com/baldo-8c-craft-forged-s20c/ It is a 24 degree, but it is a 5I not a 4I. They are strong lofted, so maybe not what you might want. One big advantage of strong lofts is if you want to use graphite shafts. A 24 degree 5I will be heavier than a 24 degree 4I and thus easier to get a proper swing weight, which is a constant issue with graphite. I have a 6I head which I've been trying. Very pleased with how it plays, if you like a little larger than normal head.

Been struggling to find the right 5W last 2 years. 18/19 degree launch too high usually. Went to a couple of 17 degree last year (Proceed and Yamaha). Picked up a 2013 Egg 5W this year, which is 18 degree but rumored to be very long. Has been a bit erratic so far. Had a 16 degree 3W sitting on the shelf for a couple of years, a SYB W422V. Figured I would put a short stiff shaft on it, ease off the swing speed a bit, shorten the swing slightly, and try it as a 5W replacement. Working quite well so far. Square face, large 202cc, but shallow enough face not to be a problem.

I would go more specific than just irons & woods.... like 1W, 3W, 5W, long irons, short irons. For example, I like to hit 3W medium launch while mostly eliminating the left, and 5W higher launch mostly eliminating push to right. Reason being that 3W is typically not into a green, but 5W usually is. Also my misses with long irons are usually hooks, but not much with other clubs.

I targeted an anti-left lower ball flight setup with a slightly stiffer shaft for many years with moderate success. My misses were always push/slice, with my upright two-plane swing. Acquired a 9.5 degree 440cc Baldo 568LC (square face) and put my Attas Gen I SR flex shaft on it at 45.5 in. Immediately started hitting consistent high draw or straight shots. I now aim down the right center and try to make a slight draw swing. My misses now are a pull draw a bit into left rough (but long). This setup seems to work to improve my swing and I am playing better than ever. Hitting the fairways is main reason.

Yamaha D Forged 2012

Info I was given was that one inch shorter would increase 8.5 to 9 cpm stiffer. But, that will reduce swingweight by about 5 points. To get swingweight back to same as before, would need to add 5 * 1.6 = 8 grams tip weight. Adding that tip weight would decrease the shaft stiffness about 6.5 cpm. At 46 inches, I would only use that shaft on one of your lighter heads (also one with an open clubface). A lighter head would play stiffer than a heavier head.

Something like D4 is normal with SW/GW as they have a heavier head weight than a pitching wedge. You have a more normal length for the LW/SW/GW instead of +0.5 like the irons have. The head weights are about normal, so the build seems to be about as expected with those lengths. Most players cannot tell the difference with a swing weight difference of 0.5 or so. Should not be a problem. Some builders will add lead powder with a small cork to make them all the same.

your lengths are mostly +0.5, so that increases SW by 3 to 3.5 per iron, so you are getting a heavy iron D5. what is c/b ? center of shaft to butt? I'm used to seeing tip/butt.

SYB FC714 13 degree.