ant

looks like a popular shape these days. have you guys seen new tm mbs http://japan.taylormadegolf.com/product_detail-471-gallery.html

so the offset on pdg is similar to yonex ezones or its just an illusion from hosel shape/grind ? or lets put it this way, when you address the ball do you see any offset at all from address ?

cool! so are those for new blades or not?

so when new blades from him are coming out? surely he had enough time to file those proto heads since march ;)

i dont wanna say that because that would be pure speculation but i have other conforming wedges and hit same shots with them and they dont shred that much and some of them dont shred at all. eliminating sharp edges was one of the goals of new groove rules to my understanding so if edges are still very sharp and they are and the wedge label says conforming their are either doing something smart and cheating regulations (like what driver designers do with cheating cor tests) or they are labeling them wrong. it doesnt really matter to me as i'm not in the ranks of pro or elite amateur players but this sorta left me puzzled purely curiosity wise. maybe my wedge got wrong paintfill on it and its as simple as that.

i think the only practical drawback is how they chew balls. like prov1 not gonna last long with these. when its dry and you do a full shot off clean lie and you got pieces of ball cover stuck in the grooves and then you get that ball on the green with splinters on it like it went thru a shredder or something. this is conforming version mind you. i have no idea if its actually conforming or just labeled as such. also they rust real quick. i dont mind that but some people cant stand rust.

i know what you mean but i think its some kind of optical illusion due to blade shape/grind. not betting on it coz i didnt measure but seems that way doing side by side with other wedges. at address looks kinda longer and narrower than others. doesnt bother me, in fact i really like the shape and how it looks at address. those guys definitely know their grinding.

they are great. probably one of the most versatile sole grinds out there. compact head, looks great at address. spin is off the charts even with conforming version. have a 60 here which i went back to after dabbling with s-yard bold for a while. would be nice to hear from you on those pdg irons, interested in them as well.

not really, no, i mean all modern mb shape blades look sorta similar sure but what i mean here is concave vs convex grind of the muscle. some guy selling this 4 iron on ebay. there are other pictures and they not great but it doesnt look like a fake to me, maybe not real miura but looks like a real proper blade whoever made it. just thought people here might recognize it as maybe an older model or something. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beautiful-Miura-Forged-Blade-4-Iron-Steel-Stiff-Near-Mint-310-120-/251371049527?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash=item3a86e1d237

anyone here can tell me more about this Miura blade model ? muscle shape doesnt match what they do for giken or international models. custom grind or some old model blade ? really like inverted muscle shape on this one.

if my miss is left and i wanna eliminate it or at least try to minimize it as much as possible open face helps with that. say i bag a 3w that is a fade machine, its so severely doctored its very hard (but not impossible) to make it go left and i know that on average statistically it gets me a fade to straight but mostly small fade. its kinda one trick pony but it practically eliminates the left side. adjustabilily gimmick would do nothing on this 3w for me because a) the variance they offer is nowhere in the range i need. b) you change one thing on it and something else changes too. c) once i know what i need on it i wont mess with it again. closed faces is industry norm right now for retail clubs, same as upright lie angles with selling point of a slice cure. another reason you would see lots of various tour players going with open faces tour van heads and set and forget adapter settings, there is no real hosel to adjust on those drivers anymore.

if you can operate that slider on the go the thing could double as ball retriever ;)

i'd say they know full well MG is real deal but its probably the same old story where they want to figure out where you get MG clubs from and act on it so that there is no steady channel of MG clubs coming to 'their' market. stating they are fakes could be an attempt to make you prove their are not and thus reveal your source for MG clubs by doing so. having said that i dont buy into previous gen clubs as far as Miura irons go, especially blades. what difference does it make ? none whatsoever. i also really hate this whole exclusivity deal going on as it hurts consumers more than it benefits them but somehow Asian golf club companies (Epon being another example?) seem to think they are in the same league as Ferrari and Hermès. its kinda idiotic because people who know MG clubs would still be able to get them even if Miura International somehow stops TSG from selling them, there are other channels.

just read it recently and its a great read and would be especially so I'd imagine for members here who are from or based in Asia. you can get it on Kindle too. here is quick synopsis This is a 264 page non-fiction book with 20 pages of color pictures. It chronicles surgeon Dr. Reid Sheftall's path to the pro golf tour at age 48. Sheftall had rediscovered golf after decades away from the game and only months later was discovered by PGA alumni Mark McCumber and Paul Azinger chipping balls at the TPC Sawgrass. A year later he was grinding out his last few putts in the final round of Qualifying School in Asia. While Sheftall was learning the ropes through Monday qualifying, he maintained a busy surgical practice repairing the scars of burned children in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A truely unique book from the world of professional sports.

i believe it does. unless you swing real sledgehammers for a living you cant just flick a heavy old persimmon even if you swing weight it very light. i think it affects backswing and transition feels alot.

shaft flex isnt just about swing speed, it also about transition (how aggressive or passive) and feel and the later two play a bigger role in shaft fitting i think (thats my personal non expert opinion tho). interestingly enough when i first got on trackman and started hitting different combos it became evident that the heavier and stiffer the shaft was the more clubhead speed i had which was totally the opposite to what you hear so called 'experts' say. it wasnt an order of magnitude difference but it was measurable and consistent but there was a weight limit where it started to degrade of course. i cant recall exact figures right now but it opened my eyes so to speak to reality of it. does not mean its the same for everybody out there but thats the point. dont listen to anybody of what you should and shouldt play. its your equipment and if it feels right and works then screw 'expert' opinions.

being captain obvious here but there is a swingweight and there is deadweight and they are totally different things. i like both heavy but the problem is modern heads are just getting lighter and lighter and when you pair them with a heavy shaft in 100g+ range it screws up swing weight alot. i think most heads today are designed for 60g shafts. i know i'm loosing distance by swinging sledgehammers but i just cant get any feel from light setups even if i bring them to about the same swingweight.

i see they finally hit proshop but i gotta say the pictures posted here on the forum are way better than that nature morte probably done by the same person who designs their stampings. these should be great with modus 3 130 i think. common hoes, somebody get a set and tell us all about it! ;)

why bother?! the finish on it is not very durable but its alright, holds better than on yururi for example. get a plated version if it bothers you so much but eventually even plated version will start to bleed, they all do. its a wedge, them wedges of all clubs get the most turf/sand interaction. sand specifically kills those kinda finishes the fastest and it happens well before grooves on them start to go bad.

not certain but i think i saw them as part of mp4 tour issue set on ebay and it wasnt jp listing.

would be interested in this as well for my missus but from what i seen they all super shovels with crap noodle shafts. dunno what idiots design them but that seem to be the state of ladies clubs today. getting a standard man set, rebuilding it with whatever shafts suit at shorter length and adjusting lie angles would be a better option. i think thats what most good player gals do anyway, tour or otherwise.

we just had a baby this summer, didnt have time to post tho been lurking here on the forums. what i found out was something that is more applicable to me and my swing so it might not apply to you or other people and i still cant invest time to do a deep dive and get hard numbers so this is my disclaimer. i got this nike vr tour driver with nunchuk from supo to do some experimenting. its 10.5 loft (labeled, dunno real loft, especially bottom of the face) about 60 lie, 2 degrees open per spec but could be 1 open, it does look a hair open to me which means its probably somewhere between neutral and 1-2 open. nunchuk from what i heard has the least droop of all the shafts out there or so they say. i thought this kinda setup should be good to experiment with and its long hosel head which can be bent more than couple of degrees. what i did last weekend, i had a quick warm up session then dedicated a bucket hitting this driver. the idea was to mark a reference stance with tape so that alignment doesnt change, tee the ball very low but still a bit forward so that the only way i can get to it would be steeper angle of attack which would ensure a bit of clubhead interaction with hitting mat and that in turn should leave green goo marks on the sole. then just machinegun the whole bucket without any consideration where it goes to ensure no adjustments and every hit it as neutral and similar as i can get them. obviously had a few stray ones like snaps and blocks but most went slightly left. mind you range balls with shortened flight and hitting off pretty low tee on uphill range so they didnt go as far as regular ball off a proper height tee would go on flat which would make it end up even more left in reality. how much left i didnt measure exactly as i didnt want to go out there and expose my soft melon to relatively high velocity hard projectiles. anyway once i got enough goo marks on the sole that was it. from there drawing two lines on the face one that goes perpendicular to score lines and another that goes thru the middle of thickest goo accumulation then measure the angle between them. ~10 degrees. now with that second line at 90 degrees to the ground and toe up turns out this pretty much my address position. i dont film my swing so cant say for sure but that either means i return my hands exactly to where they were at address or that nunckuk has a bit of droop. very few people do the former and i dont think i'm one of them so its very likely the later. regardless its ~10 degrees difference between how that head was supposedly designed to be positioned during the strike and its actual position during the strike. ~10 degrees sounds like alot but what that really does to the face and launch conditions how it affects flight ? coops posted a link to this thread here while back http://thesandtrap.com/t/64131/effects-of-lie-angle-on-varying-degrees-of-loft and i think the poster there is pretty spot on even tho hes doing a theoretical exercise with numbers. i cant really back up his numbers 100% because i dont have hard numbers and my initial conditions are different to his (loft, lie, face angle, probably shaft droop too) but i would say that he is certainly in the ballpark as far as reality and not just theory goes. ok, i'm kinda running out of time here so these are my basic observations. the next step should be getting on a launch monitor, getting some numbers, bending the hosel (5 degrees maybe, not sure how much it can take without heat but should be a good start), rinse and repeat. dunno when i'm gonna get a chance to do all this tho.

It does matter but whether or not it matters for you personally is a big question. I wont go into details here at this time because i still dont have hard measurement numbers to back up my personal findings. If you are asking about it in the context of adjustable driver just forget about it, it wont matter all that much because you cant adjust it severely enough to make a big difference plus all those adjustable systems you cant adjust things independently (even when they say you can) and to a large degree, you adjust one thing and something else gets adjusted as well.

so anyone here who can share some hands on impressions ? cant find any specs on them (like head weights and dimensions, there is only basic loft/lie spec sheet from some shop selling them on ebay). my main questions would be offset ? head size (say compared to Miura small blade or tour blade or MG 5003) ? head weight ? same off the charts spin as their wedges ? can they be ordered blank (meaning no stamping back of the head or at least no paint fill there) ?

because the reality is that shaft manufacturers dont design them to be pulled and re-installed repeatedly and the cause is almost always has something to do with a pull. i know that sux and its not the reality people want to hear because majority of pulls do just fine but everyone dealing with graphite pulls has to realize there is always risk involved.