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Chris, i think there is more to it than that. most club heads today, jdm or otherwise, would be designed for specific shaft length. so if you take that and chop off an inch thats what about 6 swing weights less and the club would feel accordingly. say if you go from 45 to 43.5 and dont add both weight and swing weight back with that shorter length then the club gonna feel very different and a person swinging it would have a hard time figuring out where the club head is during the swing but if you shorten the club but keep both swing weight and dead weight in acceptable range for a given individual then that would be a whole different deal i think.

this has been discussed on another thread here recently so i'm not gonna play broken record here just got some questions for people who went for longer shafts. can you honestly say, without it being for the sake of argument or whatever, that going with longer shaft actually improved your game as far as your scoring goes ? do you find yourself in the fairway more often or in a better position on fairways ? how about distance, direction and trajectory consistency, did you find you are more consistent with longer shaft ? these are honest questions that require honest answers and these are the questions you should be asking yourself.

do they allow you to choose specific head shape or its also part of fitting process and they tell you which shape fits your stroke best ?

i think he said in one of the interviews he was thinking about giving it a try on tour. problem is long drive is whole different gig from playing of course and people bombing it that far have to have an exceptional short game to make it as they cant exactly land all those bombs on a towel same way every time so they either have to dial it down for distance control and accuracy or get real creative with wedges and putter and scramble away. and yeah scotty putters is probably the biggest scam that ever existed in golf ;) likely collectors driven, its whole different value to them than to somebody who just wanna use that putter to do what it was supposed to be designed to do in the first place ie to roll a golf ball.

are you talking about edel putters ? they are expensive as well but at least you know what you pay for as they are custom fit to you.

anyways, its not the arrow, its the indian. why spend double the money and get two sticks when you only really need one. somebody asked on another thread earlier on for epon to make a low lofted driver, well, i think they just did if you can do this

driver can be justified because there is actually some technology to get you better ball speed, better launch and spin parameters etc and make it all more forgiving so you understand practical reasons of spending on specific head/shaft combo. there is none of that in a putter. it does look nice tho, very clean, no aiming lines or graphics, looks like one piece construction with no insert. i would be a customer if they put reasonable price on it but if i spend that much on a putter i'm gonna feel real bad about myself.

was actually very interested in that putter because its my favorite blade shape. not interested anymore after reading about the price here. its just a chunk of metal on a stick and that metal is not very precious to warrant a price like that presumably. if someone thinks they gonna roll the ball better with 1k putter because its forged or has some 'true roll' tech or some other marketing bs they might be right but its about the same chance as they gonna roll the ball better with a putter out of bargain bin for a tenner or so. i agree with sentiment made earlier that if you have to spend that much on a putter better go with GF and get a completely customized stick.

personally i dont subscribe to any school of thought regarding that its just as simple as having my clubs setup how i prefer them to be setup so that any given club is within certain comfort zone, if you like, range of total weight and swing weight for that specific club.

i'm not sure i understand your question but if i had a 5i at D2 that i then decided to cut i would add weight to it to compensate both for total weight loss and swing weight loss so that would bring it back to D2 and whatever its original total weight was.

because designs are different. for example you can have two different designs that would cpm roughly the same but have different torque numbers and one would play softer than the other. there are other things involved like what clubhead weight they design for. with graphite they can do alot of different things by using different fiber materials and different fiber orientations. because of that no single number or label can accurately reflect how specific shaft is designed and how its gonna play and more importantly how its gonna play for you. i understand your frustration but it is how it is.

in all seriousness all those flex systems mean nothing really. say they design and produce a specific model and it goes from this cpm to that cpm so they divide and label it to flexes like r/s/x/xx whatever. to you carzy 6.9 might mean something and to me it means nothing because i have no idea which system they use exactly to figure out the ballpark. personally i tend to look at weight and torque and kickpoint and that can kinda tell me what to expect but otherwise its like that box of chocolate you never know what you gonna get. they aint gonna agree on a single flex system anytime soon, i dont think so. on top of that there are discrepancies in how it can feel versus how it can actually play and be a good fit or not feel aside. just too many variables to match by flex only and that why fitters exist. off the shelf products, not talking jdm here, are all over the place so labeling them with any system is kinda pointless. forget all that flex stuff, ask Tario or go see your local fitter before spending your money.

marketing ? like it helps to sell regular if you write stiff on it and senior if you write regular etc because some people would feel less of a man otherwise. just a guess ;)

3 wood volume ? anybody here tested it yet in terms of ballflight etc or pulled the trigger already and perhaps a small review is incoming ?

yeah does look like Hogan blade on blade design.

jdm irons or at least true blade jdm irons, are more traditional. the lofts and lie angles are more traditional hence weaker lofts and flatter lie angles and thats kinda part of why jdm irons are great. they bend great tho so you can tweak them however you like for lie, loft, offset. the problem with woods, especially the ones with shorter hosels is you never know how much you can bend them without wasting an expensive club and no club builder in their right mind would guarantee you anything with those woods.

thanx supo! my rant aside and maybe the whole "custom" deal was lost in translation to me but i really think RC can do better than that. their clubs are obviously assembled manually by their staff ie they are not mass production factory assembly because taking their clubs apart shows that so how hard would it really be for them to offer more custom options like lie, face, weight, more shaft options etc. probably not that hard. instead of going after volume and trying to capture international market with cheaper models or introducing club pimping options a better deal in my book would have been providing true custom builds tour van style but what do i know, that probably wont sell.

would be interested in any comments on Pro TX as well, it looks like RC replacement for their old Pro TP. i gotta say that i'm quite disappointed in RC for their "custom" marketing stunt with TX/TR. not what i expected at all. here is what their "custom" build is : you can choose shaft, head finnish, ferrule color and grip from their options. shaft options they offered before nothing new. what if the shaft you want aint on that list ? what if you want it with flatter lie angle or different face angle ? what if you want it at specific weight ? etc hows offering different ferrule colors and head finishes and bunch of different iomic grips makes it a custom build ? thats more like pimp your club than a custom build. i'm their customer and i like their products alot but ferrule color is probably the last thing i care about. maybe i'm out of touch with consumer reality these days but just felt like venting about that "custom" build here a bit.

depending on how much the head weight is and where cg is in that head and how much weight you are going to add.

i havent hit any of their international models personally so cant compare but iirc TourSpecGolfer mentioned they were somewhat watered down versions of jdm models and there was even some internal disagrement or something at rc about that direction.

rc woods might be their international models, some of them look quite a bit different to their jdm lineup. plenty of fake shafts out there too, there was a thread on wrx while back with some pictures and it was pretty much impossible to tell them fakes from pictures alone unless you are very familiar with how particular shaft looks exactly and can spot subtle differences in paint and stickers.

haha :) google says it means "Happy birthday" in Chinese tho it doesnt sound anything like foo-king-long [un]fortunatelly.

contrary to a popular belief there are no anti left or anti right shafts because such a shaft would not be legal as far as USGA/R&A equipment regulations go. maybe some manufacturers make non conforming asymmetrical shafts designed to do just that but if you are looking for conforming solution look for a stiffer and less torque shaft and that should also help with your desired trajectory.

it only gives real advantage if you hit it right on the sweetspot and if you do that you probably dont need an unfair driver to begin with anyway.

when the shaft is made they use some sort of epoxy to keep it together and it would weaken and eventually become more fragile eventually after repeated reheating. obviously the lower that reheating temp is the less damage is done but there will be damage when heat is applied. manufacturers dont design them to be constantly reheated at temps that break epoxies. they do design them to withstand the forces involved when the club is swung. an idiot can break anything and i would know ;) broke a few shafts, steel included but none of those where results of normal swing conditions eg steel shaft hitting tree after impact. i know what i'm saying isnt popular with shaft pulling crowd and i know lots of people do many pulls and installs without any apparent side effects whatsoever but that largely depends on shaft construction, epoxies and temperatures used. this is the reason i personally would not buy a pull for any serious money and i dont care if it was done by a tour van pro who spent all night with a hairdryer pulling that shaft.