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6 flushed at 60mph would probably carry about 100m at best. so if you are hitting your 7 to about 150m like you said, you must be hitting it with quite a bit more of clubhead speed.

sounds great, i'm in! i enjoy your blog posts but they are kinda disconnected at times comparing to the stuff on this forum.

interested in any opinions from folks who either tried those grips or switched to them from any other cord grips. what do you think ? love/hate ? are they worth their price to you ? gonna need to re-grip my irons pretty soon so looking for what else is out there on the market besides standard shredders.

thanx for clarifying that! i'm with you there that them clubs are meant to be played, thats why i said i dont care if black doesnt hold too well.

sorry for confusion, i meant, would they stack up like this from softer to firmer feel : Mizuno, Epon, Miura ? as far as MuscleBacks are concerned at least. i'm just curious where Epon stands between the other too and if thats correct order in general based on my understanding. black MB-5003 is very interesting, especially if they are heavier, i like heavier. that might help to avoid tape or plugs with right shaft. i read on this forum TourSpecGolfer saying that black finish version is special order only done in batches of 10 or more or something like that, or at least thats my recollection, so i guess they are not exactly very common. i wont expect black finish to hold well with heavy use but dont really care.

thanx jamnguy1! i'm very happy with my MB-5003, simply just curious what everybody is on about regarding Epon feel. so my understanding is that they are not as soft as Mizuno but not as solid as Miura, kinda in between. would it be roughly correct assumption, at least for MBs ? shaft contribution is a good point since thats what essentially transfers impact and vibration to the hands but still.

question to folks here who hit both Epon and Mizuno MBs : how do you compare them feel wise ? i never had a chance to actually hit Epon but Mizuno feels very soft too me, even too soft for my liking.

yeah top line is razor. one pro here said after looking at mb5003 'man, you can shave with these!'. if you game them for awhile probably anything else you see after that gonna look chunky to you. thinking about it i dont recall seeing anything sharper, would remember if i did for sure, love that look.

supo67, thanx for posting them pix! wondering about those for awhile, never had a chance to see a set in person. they do look very similar to my mb5003 with the later being only slightly longer and lower than those, razor sharp top lines as well.

looks like bringing Tom Wishon didnt ring a bell, oh well...

not sure exactly what they did since all the info is marketing material and then it gets translated. it could as well be 5% bigger relative to face size. however there are ways to do that and here it could be something as simple as slightly deeper face thus stretching that sweetspot up and down the face and you get that 5% bigger sweetspot. i dont think that means it has forgiveness of forgiving 460cc heads tho as forgiveness is not determined only by the size of the sweetspot alone. in the end of the day if there is way too much miss off center othere isnt much they can do about that because they cant make entire face area into sweetspot not on larger head not on smaller head, just aint gonna work.

right, like Lee Trevino used to say, its not the arrow its the indian. maybe their sweetspot is even smaller than on my mb5003 and i didnt find it, dunno, dont care to try them again to find out either. by totally off i meant i wasnt sure what i have tried was actually eye2 but now i think they were after checking pictures of them on the net. again, to me they had no feel to them, hard harsh things that also look like gardening tools. the only thing that really impressed me about them was how well they held up given their age, no dings or dents or anything major like you see on beaten up blades, copper finish fades here and there but like new otherwise. i think anybody who actually likes them can save alot of dough and game one set of them for life then pass to their grandchildren. dunno how many balls one has to hit with those to even flatten their grooves let alone depress the metal.

sorry cant recall what shafts they had in them, it was awhile ago. heads had some sort of copper finish on them. hated their feel, was too harsh comparing to any forged club, jdm or not. even the modern cast clubs i have tried, none left the same kinda impression with me.

i might be totally off here but my recollection from hitting those old pings was that they were rock hard.

you can just skip chapters dealing with the swing itself if you afraid to repeat TourSpecGolfer experience. imho the ball flight physics, ball flights laws and impact dynamics are the gold of that book. that stuff applies to any and all swings regardless. its certainly not swing instruction or method book and i can see how reading swing related material can mess you up. only problem illustrations are few and they aint great which is a damn shame coz that whole D plane thing is better digested with good 3d illustrations. if you find yourself in trouble on that front look for D plane vids on YouTube, there are several good ones from different folks.

thanx for review man! i got their TourVS driver recently and gonna post about it here in due time as well once i'm able to get it in actual play, so far literally just hit a few shots with it on the range and while i obviously got very excited about my new toy and the feel, sound and looks of it thats no basis for review. btw did you ever game their ProTP wood ? would be interested to know how it compares for you in case you did.

you are mixing up cause and effect. if you wanna believe your "basic common knowledge" that you are hitting it straighter because of higher spin rate dont let me stop you but in reality you are hitting it just as crooked as before. you can slice or hook it off the planet but if it goes just 5 yards long you gonna claim you just hit a straight shot. well, guess what, you didnt. there is a very good book called The Physics of Golf by Dr. Jorgensen, highly recommended if you wanna know how it all works and its not a complicated read, despite its title. all D plane stuff, TrackMan stuff and modern ball flight laws are pretty much based on his research.

supo67, yeah, it makes sense to me. look at your launch monitor shot graphs from top view or if you dont have them handy just draw arbitrary draw or fade shot copy on a piece of paper like you see it on from the top view ie horizontal central line to the target and distance markers vertical lines so you have reference points there. now trace that shot line from start to finish and see how much it deviates from your target at various points and you will find that the longer it goes the more side deviation you gonna get from that curve. so the trick here with you is to choke and drop it before it deviates too much but if you were to hit a straight shot or draw a straight line, on or very close to that horizontal central line, it wont matter how much spin rate there is, ie you would get exact same or close enough to ignore side deviation for any distance and any spin rate there. does that make sense to you ?

sorry, that doesnt make any sense to me. there is no such thing as sidespin. golf ball is spinning around an axis. when that axis is tilted that dictates how much the ball will either fade or draw, depending on spin axis tilt relative to horizon. spin rate, measured in rpms is simply a rate at which the ball spins around that axis. it will directly affect trajectory and indirectly distance via both carry distance and landing angle affecting potential roll distance. spinning it at higher rate will not make it go straighter. same applies to your wedges but the effect is less severe due to much higher loft and shorter distance involved but you can still curve them and it would even effect the roll direction once it hits the ground. they are obviously harder to curve but not because of the spin rate.

no, thats wrong, spin has nothing to do with how straight it goes, spin axis tilt does however ie if spin axis is at zero, relative to horizon, you can have your spin rate at 3k or 10k it will still go dead straight.

unfortunately its not just the news who are cashing in to fill their non stop 24 hour programming. politicians are cashing in as well. its disgusting to watch people try to turn somebody else crisis and tragedy into their own advantage going witch hunting on nuclear energy. what a bunch of hypocrites. sorry, nothing to do with golf or jdm gear so not a good place to vent but its very frustrating to see all that going on. i hope more people will hear sane voices telling how it is directly from Japan even if it comes up on a golf related forums.

also check out X-Drive 905 Limited 385cc in the shop, sweet spot 5% larger than X-Drive 703 and that is in a smaller head. if it didnt get all pre-ordered and sold out by now that is.

if you are saying that you would prefer it was made in Japan it implies, to me, made elsewhere would make it less of a club. if that however is not the case and its simply your preference like color etc i have no argument with you or anybody else having same preference as it would be pretty stupid to argue about which color is best.

man i'm not trying to be right or wrong here i just think its silly that people would think its less of a club if its not made in Japan 100% from start to finish or feel they were mislead. that Yonex 380, supo67 had very good comments after testing it and if that head is made in China so what ? does it make it less of a club ? dont get me wrong i like when companies being honest and transparent about that, in my book its a big plus for any brand to do that and i appreciate you digging into details and educating us here and its interesting stuff but tax issues aside it makes no practical difference whatsoever. to me if the product is solid they can label it "Made in Japan" or "Assembled in Japan" or whatever suits them best, i buy product not its "made in" label in the end of the day.

so those products that 100% made in Japan and those that are not where you draw the line ? what would fit "If it's not then it isn't..." in order to separate them ? for example lets take Miura. i have no idea where their clubs are forged but if they were forged elsewhere then brought to Japan in completely raw form off the factory then more work was done on them in Japan in order to make them into final product would that qualify for made in Japan or not ? or in order to qualify for made in Japan the entire process from start to finish has to be done in Japan ? what if ingots were imported ? what if the shaft or grip or any other component is not made in Japan ? does it still qualify for made in Japan as final product ? you see what i mean ? so i dont think its that simple. if a company sells product made entirely elsewhere and labels it made in Japan then there is a problem and it is misleading but otherwise and i just dont see what all the fuss is about.