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where and how its snapped its either from excessive heating when pulling or that shaft had manufacturing defects the later is unlikely tho with a shaft like that. you would never know for sure unless you decide to send it for post mortal someplace with expertize eg manufacturer but from the looks of it i'd bet its excessive heating realted. with how often folks here change shaft/head combos you'd be far better off with weaker epoxy that breaks at lower temps. there is no way you could have done it with your swing unless you were doing something really extreme in terms of forces applied to shaft and head.

no inserts of any kind anywhere, one piece head, tho i guess thats technically always two piece with Miura due to wielded hosels, just forging and grinding, maybe some milling with this type of head.

lol, same here. if you can get 2 of each that might help, drink one and leave one in the cave. personally i dont see a point of collecting but it probably makes sense for people who can buy more good wine than they can drink ;)

wow, looks like you got them all :) would be interested in your review/observations on Attas Tours once you get them. i know what you mean on mis**ts there just no sting at all seems no matter how bad a mis**t.

which one have you converted to ? i did convert myself since that post a year ago, went with Programs. they do feel good but definitely not the same as steel for me, steel feels more sharp to me. they do a very good job at vibration dampening so i guess that difference in feel is to be expected. i'd say people who love soft buttery feel and play heads that give them that would actually make their irons feel even better with good graphite shaft and people who prefer more sharp feel would need to get used to them if they decide to convert from steel. in my case with mb5003 which is more of a solid feel head its kinda compromise with this shaft, if i had to play them in Mizuno heads for example i would probably hate them as such combo would probably have no sharpness at all. just wanted to share my observations in case it helps somebody whos on the fence and cant decide whether to make the switch or not.

playing mine for a little over year now and its firmly in my bag. its a very neutral head and it doesnt try to compensate for poor swing in any way, deep, square faced, low spin tho i havent been on TrackMan for awhile so cant give you any numbers here. looks nice at address, although its smaller head it still looks like frying pan next to my Hogan persimmon natutally but not as much as all those 460 tin cans. sound is muted but solid, you aint gonna make a person next to you deaf which is a bonus in my book. feels great when you right on the sweetspot. same with performance, if you put a garbage swing on it you gonna get garbage performance, again, its a very much neutral head so it does exactly what you do, no compensations. i think the face is designed with about 110 or so club head speed in mind so it probably wont perform to its best much under that. workable, again, its not biased or compensating in any way so you can shape it pretty much as you are able to but not as much as persimmon of course. what else, hitting off the deck is out of the question unless you are trick shot artist, the face is just too deep for that sort of thing.

real beauties! not sure the pictures do them justice but its pretty hard to find that kinda shape with modern blades these days. glws.

you can still hook it off the planet with open face, its just a matter of minimizing possible damage ie face angle is responsible for initial direction so if you hit a hook with open face it would start right then curve left hopefully not too far from your target line. if you hit a hook with closed face it would start left then curve left and thats just gonna be off your target line too much comparing to the former case. if you suffer from occasionally hitting hooks the later would end up in the junk most likely while the former would still be in the fairway or maybe rough worst case unless its very severe hook or your target line is too close to the junk.

btw anybody here has Diamana Blueboard 103 to part with for a reasonable price ?

fubuki alpha ax is great, had it in my 3w for awhile now. very stable, very tight, very straight. if it weighted 20+g more would have been ideal and no ugly lead tape to spoil the shaft look. be careful with flex and tipping tho. if you like alot of feel in your shafts go one flex softer or dont tip it at all.

hey, sounds great! i was looking at their 3w too for the same reason of flatter lie angle. its 2 degrees flatter than mine stock and there seem to be a custom order option of alas pointless +-0.5 adjustment. did you get them flatter than stock on custom order or afterwards, i wonder if they can be bent another couple of degrees or so ? if you have a picture of 3w at address with a ball would appreciate you posting it here.

haha, yeah, them grips are probably brand new just 2 years old ;) seriously tho i know what supo is saying. cords just hold much better and once they wear and become slick a bit you can always sandpaper them lightly and they are pretty much back to normal. compare that to something like soft iomics. the last one i had was gone after about 4 range sessions or so from brand new. it was stock grip and i was going to re-grip anyway but cant imagine buying them at 18 or so a pop, just way too much expense and hassle for a range rat like me. not dissing iomics here, i know they make cords as well, just an example of soft grip and what i'm talking about.

well, they just hit the pro shop. unfortunately the price is on par with regular iomics which means roughly twice the price of gp. while i understand the reasons i think even gp price is too much to be honest for a thin piece of rubber with some cotton in it. still might pick them on my next order based on feedback here.

tt dynalite gold xp is a high launching shaft especially in r flex. a set of mizunos i bought while back came with those stock r300. high and soft. maybe they can lower it for you somewhat comparing to 95 programs since they weight a wee bit more. havent tried 95s but have 130s and combined with a blade head and stronger flex they produce med flat traj, extremely stable, dispersion is great. your other problem in terms of lowering it is your cb heads, they are designed to launch higher and if you combine them with any high launching shaft especially in softer flex it doesnt make much sense if you are looking for lower traj. that said if you are not looking to lower it radically then dynalite or similar might work which i'm guessing what your fitting has shown. if thats the case why dont you go with that match ? if you want graphite it might still work for you if you go with heavier weight and stronger flex than your current 95s tho it might be rather expensive experiment to find a match but 130s in stronger flex should certainly be one such option.

something to note is that the loft on all epons except for af-tours is stronger than miuras but they will also launch higher all things being equal due to cb design so you gonna get less distance out of the same club with mb5003, ymmv but roughtly around half a club easily and more on mis**ts. you might wanna take that in consideration for bag gaping as hitting them harder isnt something you really want to do even tho i'm sure you can. i have a set of mb5003 with 130 programms, pretty damn good shafts too, they weight on par with steel and dont listen to their marketing crap, i dunno who writes those things, they are not high launching shafts at all if you pick the right flex they produce very flat stable traj. they feel stiffer than than they actually play so for your quoted club head speed i'd go for the stiffest flex they can offer you.

cool, thanx!

longer and cordier ? that sounds like old style cord grips to me so i would very much like to try them. are they as expensive as iomics ? cords normally have way much more life in them but still.

yep, thailand, its on their website.

with how endo manufacturing has been expanding lately maybe the list should be "whats not made by endo". chill out people, i'm only joking :) they used to publish their customer names on their website but looks like thats no longer the case.

it is a typo, sorry, i meant BCT of course http://www.golfpride.com/Grips/Default.aspx?cat=cord&grip=tourvelvetbct

how are they different from gp bst cords ?

supo, weight wise there are some graphite options diamana bb 103 matrix hd10 gd ad di-10 nunchuk they all weight over 100g and even in S but X would be a hair heavier so that should be roughly on par with ns950fw weight wise. hd10 is basically a telegraph pole, di10 is hard to source. i'm looking for a quality BB 103 X pull at reasonable price for a similar kinda project btw. ns950fw is great shaft but a bit soft in my opinion even tho very stable. i'd imagine it plays even softer in a driver and should be great for a smooth swing.

thats good to know, thanx! i was looking at kamui fw the other day and while it seems that they can really produce some crazy customized builds or at least should be capable to do so their fw just doesnt look right to me, maybe its better in person but looks real fat and chunky, almost like a driver. i know there some kamui fans around here who praise their drivers and Tario wrote some about their drivers on the blog but i dont think i ever heard anything on their fw so far. would be interested to know what people think about their fw.

hoping somebody here can help or at least share experience. tried to ask around but nobody seems to know anything on this particular club. if you have experience with bending hybrids or stainless steel clubs in general i would appreciate learning some insight from you. the club is Miura MG HB4 hybrid. great club, love it, in fact thinking about getting HB3 as well. problem is i need to flatten it about 4 degrees and i have absolutely no idea if bending it without heat that much is possible. Miura spec for it says its Stainless steel (SUS) 455 which doesnt tell me much expect that its not the same as forged carbon steel but its not some titanium either hence the question. as far as damaging finish in the process its no big deal to me, if the metal underneath doesnt crack i'm fine with that.

no, its not just you and its not specific to jdm gear either as pretty much all new fws are too upright. same for drivers but with drivers its not that big of a deal at least. older RC fw models (and Sonartec obviously) with long hosel had some room for adjustment but all new releases seem follow one size fits all idea which makes alot of sense business wise but none whatsoever as far as customization goes. btw RC are not as bad to begin with comparing to some others as far as lie angles go. max manufacturer offered tweak i have seen so far with new releases is +/- 2 degrees and even that is hard to come by if you look at the specs. you can of course bend most of them more than 2 but that would probably require torching and it aint gonna look nice afterwards and of course there is a chance you screw it up. all that is kinda hard to accept when premium gear is involved. you can try to choke down and see if thats gonna be enough to help you with how it sits for you and if it does cut the shaft shorter then. this reminds me that i need to ask around here on any experience bending hybrids.