donnieu

You can always build up with masking tape where you choose. I use the old (not JDM) original Chamois in purple on my wedges as it seems to be a slight bit bigger at bottom which helps when choking down.

there should be some other shaft type name on the shaft besides just worktec. you might email works golf, but they will need additional info other than just worktec. http://worksgolf.jp/english/inquiries.html

Picked up an egg 7. didn't really fit me eye. Tried it on the range. Was about ready to put it in the forsale box....but gave it a try on the course. First 5 drives crunched down the middle, one very long [for me]. Definitely makes my Final Four.

The Kamui Pro Tour-S & Tour-X shafts are counterbalanced. http://www.kamuipro.co.jp/product/tp05s.html I have a Tour-X on my TP05s. Seems like a decent shaft, firm feel throughout. The Tour-X seems to play only a slight bit stiffer than a normal S though.

I have a Kamui KP-101 Pure Copper Insert. Condition 8/10. Some light wear.

Did it go thru the clearcoat? You might check the youtube videos for methods of repairing car scratches. They might work on a metal driver head. I used Mcguires rubbing compound on a scratch on my wifes' Mustang.

Yes, says FORGED on back side of hosel. 7-A play great. 5-6 are a bit below average in forgiveness.

A 4 year old question, but I did try a set of these. From the top, they look exactly like the old Macgregor 1025C forged irons which I played 10 years ago. The 1025C also came in a cavity back / blade combo set called the 1025CM. One thing I liked about the Tanzo is that the PW and AW are blade style. There are a couple of differences with the Tanzo. The sole design has a slope on heel and toe side of the sole. And they are definitely the softest irons I have ever hit. Noticeably softer than my S20C Yonex irons.

Some sleeves survive a heat gun pull, some don't. Depends on whether it is a plastic material or aluminum/metal. If part of it melts or bends, you will need a new sleeve. And for sure you will need a new ferrule close in exterior diameter to the old one. Suggest you send an email to srixon web site support if nobody knows. Here is a video example of removing one:

It is very strange that their web site does not give tipping instructions. It does say the parallel tip length is 70mm (2.75 inch). The length of the parallel tip should be equal or more than the insertion depth into the hosel, which is usually 1.0 to 1.5 inches. So you would be able to tip trim it if desired. For a driver, I would not tip trim.

Your head is about 3 grams under average, as most JDM heads seem to be. That is about 2 SW points. A 51 gram shaft is lighter than average, but different shafts swingweight differently. You will probably have to set length to around 46 to get D1, but that is just a guess. Jiggrack: 10 grams of head weight on irons is 5 to 5 1/2 SWs.

> These are meant for 215gram heads playing at 42/43 Adding 2.5 inches in length to 45 in driver adds 12.5 Swing weight points. Reducing head weight by 20 grams to 195g driver head subtracts 12.5 Swing weight points. The 20 grams less will make it play about 2/3 of a flex stiffer. The additional length will reduce the stiffness some, difficult to estimate. Lengthening also lowers the kick point. Making it a 44" driver and adding about 6-8 grams tip weight would reduce the stiffness.

I just pulled a Bangvoo Premium X flex. Not sure what it is worth used...

Sergio won last weekend with: 48-Degree Wedge: TaylorMade PSi Tour (Nippon N.S. Pro Modus3 Tour 120X shaft) 52-Degree Wedge: TaylorMade Tour Preferred EF Tour Grind (Nippon N.S. Pro Modus Tour 130X shaft) 58-Degree Wedge: TaylorMade Tour Preferred EF Tour Grind (Nippon N.S. Pro Modus Tour 130X shaft) As for me, I would prefer a 58 but have trouble with anything over 56. If I played lush CC fairways, I could probably do better with the 58, but sun baked Texas hardpan bermuda can be more difficult to deal with. So looks like I may be headed toward 51/53(or 54)/56 or just 51/56. Rory won last weekend with: 47-Degree Wedge: Nike Engage (Royal Precision Project X 6.5 shaft) 52-Degree Wedge: Nike Engage (Royal Precision Project X 6.5 shaft) 56-Degree Wedge: Nike Engage (Royal Precision Project X 6.5 shaft) 59-Degree Wedge: Nike Engage (Royal Precision Project X 6.5 shaft) Use of a PW which does not match the iron set is the direction I will also be going. Why do they insist on making over sized PWs even on so-called Players sets where most of the other irons are smaller than average?

2012 Onoff Type D 3W 15 degree 2010 Yamaha X D 3W 15 degree I hit both of these very straight, but too high much of the time. I just got a 2011 Yamaha X V 14 degree which hits much lower.

They work great if you have a normal grip, but limited retail choices are available. I wouldn't recommend them if you have an extra strong or weak grip. And I wouldn't put them on wedges, if you like to open up the club face at times.

One web site tests about 25 drivers every year. I won't list the site. There are several. As mentioned above, the distance average varied only from 256.2 yards to 267.5 yards, testing with a group of various golfers. Not significant. Royal Collection SFD X7 finished 1st and 3rd in under and over 100MPH swing speeds with 266.6 overall average. Only other JDM driver in the test was Z745 at 259.3. I haven't seen SFD X7 mentioned here in the forum, but they are nice looking woods. http://www.tourspecgolf.com/royal-collection-2014-sfd-x7-driver

The lofts above are right for the tour. Lies are 60 60.25 60.5 60.75 61 61.5 62 62.5 The V forged are 22 25 28 32 36 41 46 Lie 60.5 60.75 61 61.25 61.5 62 62.5 I have a copy of the PDFs from 2008 to 2013.

First thing to do is to weigh the new iron heads. Most heads are lighter than standard. If so they would require even more weight.

I played the '07 last year, and have a demo 5I of the forged 2010, 2013, 2014 (MB&CB). Hold them next to each other, and size is almost identical on all. So if you are looking for more or less forgiveness, you probably would need to go to the Tour model, or forged D models. I didn't see a big difference in the demo irons, but liked the 2014 RMX MB best, forged 2013 2nd best. They are all good. Can't go wrong with any of them. Was a little disappointed with the 2014 CB though.

2007 Yonex Nanov Cyberstar. These heads are small, 1/4 shorter in height than Yamaha forged. But they are one of the most solid feeling irons I've hit. I hated the look the first time I saw them, but they grow on you. Could not find any reviews of this model, rarely mentioned on Google anywhere. Also a Honma putter from years back, LB-206 Type-1.

37 is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer than standard. 1/2 inch on an 8 iron is 3.33 swing weight points. Graphite shafts are frequently made longer to get the swing weight up. Swing weight varies based on shaft and head weight and club length. Only sure way to tell is to dry-fit it and check. Did you really want +1/2 inch in length?

> My question is, for those that know, is did they make a P wedge in this model... Most likely, as I see a matching 3I on ebay item 361251438100.

Many have problems with long irons. At 20 handicap, you should just expect a solid hit near the green. Have you tried easing off a fairway wood or hybrid, maybe a punch type shot, where you just try to make solid contact? If you hit the full 5 wood maybe 200 yards, then ease off the 5 wood (maybe a 3/4 swing) for a 185-190 shot as a replacement for the 4 iron.

Since the .830 rule in 2002, I have tended to stay a few years behind the curve. I've tried various others, including 3 Kamui, but still sticking with the 2011 Onoff Type S. I also have the '12 Type S which looks and plays about the same. But a big difference in feel. '11 much softer feel. I've tried 4 different shafts with the Ezone 450, but usually launching too high. But I haven't given up on it yet. In fact I bought 2 more 9 degree so I could test and compare 3 shafts at the range in same session with same heads. These are going for peanuts on the used market. Don't understand why, as I get a very consistent control fade with it, and decent distance, but not quite as long as the Onoff. I'm hoping for this to be my "control" driver.